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10-31-2018, 11:37 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Where ever the boss says we're going.
Posts: 16,106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle
I still flush my tank annually by simply removing the stainless steel flex line at the tank and flush away with the same tool in your pic.
Bob
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You need to patent that.
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11-07-2018, 01:03 PM
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#22
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Wharton
Posts: 5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wags999
I use a basin wrench...no issues. Hand tighten when putting it back in than tighten with the basin wrench.
Good Luck.
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Ditto on the basin wrench.
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11-07-2018, 01:15 PM
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#23
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Kalamazoo
Posts: 11
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I use a 3" socket to get at mine...I think it is a 13/16" socket
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11-07-2018, 01:18 PM
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#24
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Southington
Posts: 4
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I found these items on Amazon. What I did I removed the plastic plug and replaced it with the 1/2" water heater drain valve.
With the valve in place I will no longer have to remove the plug I will simply open the valve and let the water heater drain.
Camco 11633 Water Heater Drain Plug and Wrench Kit
Camco 11703 1/2" Water Heater Drain Valve
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11-07-2018, 01:18 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Waconia, MN
Posts: 447
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle
This is what I ended up doing:
Ideally stay with a plastic fastener (or plug) when making a connection to the 'aluminum' tank's threads.
Bob
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Good job Bob! I like it.
__________________
2015 Chevy Silverado 2500HD CC Duramax
2016 Eagle 323LKTS Java
Pull Rite SuperGlide #4100 Hitch w/Mor-Ryde Pin Box
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11-07-2018, 01:38 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: MATTAPOISETT
Posts: 233
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My old RV had an anode rod attached to the drain plug. Do the new units not need one any longer?
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11-07-2018, 01:40 PM
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#27
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Burlington
Posts: 9
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Water pluh
I use Rustics method above. 20 dollar materials and just open the faucet to drain. So easy.
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11-07-2018, 02:18 PM
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#28
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Temecula
Posts: 20
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Plug
I have a 21 Jay flight. 15/16 socket will get it off. I keep a little bit of liquid Teflon on the threads to help with removing. I do drain the water heater when not using the trailer for extended periods and stuff the opening with a little bit if papertowel to prevent dust etc from getting in. Hope the helps.
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11-07-2018, 02:22 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 697
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle
This is what I ended up doing:
Ideally stay with a plastic fastener (or plug) when making a connection to the 'aluminum' tank's threads.
Bob
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Similar to what I rigged with a SS braided hose. Works really great! Thanks for posting and the beautiful illustration!
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11-07-2018, 03:17 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Michigan
Posts: 439
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I got one of those wrenches that uses hex nuts at the local hardware store. Lowes and Home Depot has them too. Measure with one you have now or best guess. I am glad I always buy two sizes too big because I never get it right on. I keep it in the camper so I can find it when it is time to winterize. Which I won't be able to do and glad I did get the water out because we are expecting snow this weekend. I can't get on the roof because of vertigo and husband with two jobs never home. Sigh. Need to hire someone. Good luck.
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11-07-2018, 03:18 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Michigan
Posts: 439
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mjgibbs
I have a 21 Jay flight. 15/16 socket will get it off. I keep a little bit of liquid Teflon on the threads to help with removing. I do drain the water heater when not using the trailer for extended periods and stuff the opening with a little bit if papertowel to prevent dust etc from getting in. Hope the helps.
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The coachmen I have is a 1 1/16 I think. I remember our Jayco being that size.
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11-07-2018, 03:47 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Little Rock
Posts: 120
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I took my plug to a hardware store yesterday and it was 15/16th. Ordered a crowfoot socket.
__________________
2017 Jay Feather 19XUD
2012 F-150 3.5L
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11-07-2018, 04:43 PM
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#33
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: James Island, SC
Posts: 22,859
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Berjr
My old RV had an anode rod attached to the drain plug. Do the new units not need one any longer?
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RV makers use 2 makes of wh for combo, 12vdc/lp gas. Suburban units have a sacrificial anode in the drain hole and Atwood just has a plug.
This is because of the material in the tank. Anode is not needed in a Atwood.
__________________
Moderator
2011- 351RLTS Eagle, MorRyde suspension/pin box,
2017- F350 6.7 PSD Lariat FX4,SRW, SB,CC
Hughes PWD SP-50A, TST TPMS
Gator roll-up bed cover
B&W Turnover ball, Companion Std hitch
Can't find what you're looking on JOF? Try Jayco Owners Forum Custom Google Search
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11-07-2018, 06:56 PM
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#34
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Altus
Posts: 11
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15/16 socket with extension works perfect and then put a short piece of garden hose to control water spill
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11-07-2018, 09:29 PM
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#35
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Michigan
Posts: 9,424
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dentac6467
R.E. What type of connection did you use from the hot water tank to the hose extension with the valve ?.......snip
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I used a 1/2 x 1/2 Plastic male threaded adaptor (non-tapered threads, apply Teflon tape).
Similar to: https://www.statetrailer.com/product...00&detail=true
Remainder of items used:
* 3/8 C x 1/2" FIP x 12" long steel Braided Hose
https://www.menards.com/main/plumbin...693-c-9413.htm
* 5/8 OD x 3/8 OD with 1/4 Turn Valve (discard nut/copper ring)
https://www.menards.com/main/plumbin...002-c-9415.htm
Bob
__________________
2016 GM 2500HD 6.0L/4.10
2018 Jay Flight 24RBS
2002 GM 2500HD 6.0L/4:10 (retired)
2005 Jayco Eagle 278FBS (retired)
1999 Jayco Eagle 246FB (retired)
Reese HP Dual Cam (Strait-Line)
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11-07-2018, 09:31 PM
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#36
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: DeForest
Posts: 40
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Here is my very similar drain setup. I found a nylon fitting with a nipple at Ace Hardware then used reinforced hose and hose clamps. The brass dump end is also is a mix of parts to have a nipple for the drain hose.
What I like about what I did is I don't have to worry about dissimilar metals at the tank and I have the option of connecting a hose to the hot water tank if needed for what ever.
I drain my hot water tank after each trip and this makes that so much simpler and faster.
I remove it when winterizing and use the flush wand for a thorough cleaning. I also keep the original plug handy in case this fails.
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11-08-2018, 04:58 AM
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#37
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: James Island, SC
Posts: 22,859
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dobbs
Here is my very similar drain setup.
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It's a very time saving mod. I had one also but just remember that the tank needs to be flushed of scale buildup at least once a year and the scale will eventually clog this small line.
Now with my present rig, I can't use it due to the anode rod. ( Suburban wh).
I see they have offer a after market anode rod with a drain valve for those that don't want to fool with it.
I have always liked to remove my plug or anode often to assure the plug will come out easily. If it corrodes in place, you could damage the tank.
__________________
Moderator
2011- 351RLTS Eagle, MorRyde suspension/pin box,
2017- F350 6.7 PSD Lariat FX4,SRW, SB,CC
Hughes PWD SP-50A, TST TPMS
Gator roll-up bed cover
B&W Turnover ball, Companion Std hitch
Can't find what you're looking on JOF? Try Jayco Owners Forum Custom Google Search
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11-08-2018, 10:21 AM
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#38
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 2
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I use the same type of set up for my attwood water heater as well and it works great!!!
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11-08-2018, 10:22 AM
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#39
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 2
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Sorry its a 15/16" socket.
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11-12-2018, 02:27 PM
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#40
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Kennesaw
Posts: 24
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15/16" open or closed wrench, socket, smaller crescent wrench.
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