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Old 10-31-2018, 11:37 AM   #21
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I still flush my tank annually by simply removing the stainless steel flex line at the tank and flush away with the same tool in your pic.

Bob
You need to patent that.
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Old 11-07-2018, 01:03 PM   #22
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I use a basin wrench...no issues. Hand tighten when putting it back in than tighten with the basin wrench.

Good Luck.
Ditto on the basin wrench.
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Old 11-07-2018, 01:15 PM   #23
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I use a 3" socket to get at mine...I think it is a 13/16" socket
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Old 11-07-2018, 01:18 PM   #24
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I found these items on Amazon. What I did I removed the plastic plug and replaced it with the 1/2" water heater drain valve.
With the valve in place I will no longer have to remove the plug I will simply open the valve and let the water heater drain.
Camco 11633 Water Heater Drain Plug and Wrench Kit
Camco 11703 1/2" Water Heater Drain Valve
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Old 11-07-2018, 01:18 PM   #25
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This is what I ended up doing:



Ideally stay with a plastic fastener (or plug) when making a connection to the 'aluminum' tank's threads.

Bob
Good job Bob! I like it.
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Old 11-07-2018, 01:38 PM   #26
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My old RV had an anode rod attached to the drain plug. Do the new units not need one any longer?
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Old 11-07-2018, 01:40 PM   #27
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Water pluh

I use Rustics method above. 20 dollar materials and just open the faucet to drain. So easy.
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Old 11-07-2018, 02:18 PM   #28
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Plug

I have a 21 Jay flight. 15/16 socket will get it off. I keep a little bit of liquid Teflon on the threads to help with removing. I do drain the water heater when not using the trailer for extended periods and stuff the opening with a little bit if papertowel to prevent dust etc from getting in. Hope the helps.
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Old 11-07-2018, 02:22 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle View Post
This is what I ended up doing:



Ideally stay with a plastic fastener (or plug) when making a connection to the 'aluminum' tank's threads.

Bob
Similar to what I rigged with a SS braided hose. Works really great! Thanks for posting and the beautiful illustration!
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Old 11-07-2018, 03:17 PM   #30
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I got one of those wrenches that uses hex nuts at the local hardware store. Lowes and Home Depot has them too. Measure with one you have now or best guess. I am glad I always buy two sizes too big because I never get it right on. I keep it in the camper so I can find it when it is time to winterize. Which I won't be able to do and glad I did get the water out because we are expecting snow this weekend. I can't get on the roof because of vertigo and husband with two jobs never home. Sigh. Need to hire someone. Good luck.
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Old 11-07-2018, 03:18 PM   #31
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I have a 21 Jay flight. 15/16 socket will get it off. I keep a little bit of liquid Teflon on the threads to help with removing. I do drain the water heater when not using the trailer for extended periods and stuff the opening with a little bit if papertowel to prevent dust etc from getting in. Hope the helps.



The coachmen I have is a 1 1/16 I think. I remember our Jayco being that size.
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Old 11-07-2018, 03:47 PM   #32
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I took my plug to a hardware store yesterday and it was 15/16th. Ordered a crowfoot socket.
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Old 11-07-2018, 04:43 PM   #33
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My old RV had an anode rod attached to the drain plug. Do the new units not need one any longer?
RV makers use 2 makes of wh for combo, 12vdc/lp gas. Suburban units have a sacrificial anode in the drain hole and Atwood just has a plug.


This is because of the material in the tank. Anode is not needed in a Atwood.
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Old 11-07-2018, 06:56 PM   #34
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15/16 socket with extension works perfect and then put a short piece of garden hose to control water spill
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Old 11-07-2018, 09:29 PM   #35
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R.E. What type of connection did you use from the hot water tank to the hose extension with the valve ?.......snip
I used a 1/2 x 1/2 Plastic male threaded adaptor (non-tapered threads, apply Teflon tape).

Similar to: https://www.statetrailer.com/product...00&detail=true

Remainder of items used:

* 3/8 C x 1/2" FIP x 12" long steel Braided Hose

https://www.menards.com/main/plumbin...693-c-9413.htm

* 5/8 OD x 3/8 OD with 1/4 Turn Valve (discard nut/copper ring)

https://www.menards.com/main/plumbin...002-c-9415.htm

Bob
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Old 11-07-2018, 09:31 PM   #36
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Here is my very similar drain setup. I found a nylon fitting with a nipple at Ace Hardware then used reinforced hose and hose clamps. The brass dump end is also is a mix of parts to have a nipple for the drain hose.
What I like about what I did is I don't have to worry about dissimilar metals at the tank and I have the option of connecting a hose to the hot water tank if needed for what ever.
I drain my hot water tank after each trip and this makes that so much simpler and faster.
I remove it when winterizing and use the flush wand for a thorough cleaning. I also keep the original plug handy in case this fails.
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Old 11-08-2018, 04:58 AM   #37
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Here is my very similar drain setup.
It's a very time saving mod. I had one also but just remember that the tank needs to be flushed of scale buildup at least once a year and the scale will eventually clog this small line.

Now with my present rig, I can't use it due to the anode rod. ( Suburban wh).

I see they have offer a after market anode rod with a drain valve for those that don't want to fool with it.

I have always liked to remove my plug or anode often to assure the plug will come out easily. If it corrodes in place, you could damage the tank.
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Old 11-08-2018, 10:21 AM   #38
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I use the same type of set up for my attwood water heater as well and it works great!!!
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Old 11-08-2018, 10:22 AM   #39
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Sorry its a 15/16" socket.
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Old 11-12-2018, 02:27 PM   #40
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15/16" open or closed wrench, socket, smaller crescent wrench.
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