Rv wax

[jack4540]

What rv wax is everybody using on the accolade / seneca ?

[CAG]

A search, above in the "search" section will bring up a passel of threads on this topic.

About any good wax or protective polymer (my preference Rejex) will work on 6 month intervals if you are parked outside most of the time.

This is another one of those "where you sit is where you stand" topics.

https://www.smartrving.net/best-rv-wax/

Also, some like to use electric orbital machines to apply and polish. I had a front cap repainted a few years back and the RV paint shop strongly recommended not using them and to do it by hand. The gel coat is thin and over time orbitals put small scratches and work through the gel.

[Rustynuts]

Collinite #845 easy to use and works great.



https://www.autogeek.net/collinite-i...r-wax-845.html

[foglght]

Originally Posted by CAG

Also, some like to use electric orbital machines to apply and polish. I had a front cap repainted a few years back and the RV paint shop strongly recommended not using them and to do it by hand. The gel coat is thin and over time orbitals put small scratches and work through the gel.

This is a strange thing to hear. I haven't measured the paint thickness on my cap yet, but I will now.

Any polish with abrasives will work through the gel. That's part of the polishing process. Most dual action orbitals are stupid proof in that they won't completely work through the top layer.

You can buy polish and abuse a rotary to burn through it quite easily. A heavy polish with harsh abrasives will leave behind scratch like marks and hazing. Then you need a finishing polish to clean it all up.

Blanket statements from random paint guys isn't much to go off of.

If you don't want to polish the vehicle first and just want to apply a wax/sealant there are a billion options. Some of the best stuff out there now are the hybrid ceramics like Maguires and Turtle wax. Google/youtube till your heart it content. Super easy to apply and provide months worth of protection.

[CAG]

I'm just the messenger but I can tell you from what they showed me of various rigs around the lot, including mine that were there I became a believer. If you use one take a very close look at your finish. My bet is you can see the small "scratches" that they leave. It was fairly evident on my rig at the time. I had been using the same detail company for years. And this random paint guy has been running that RV business for the last 35 years.

[foglght]

Originally Posted by CAG

I'm just the messenger but I can tell you from what they showed me of various rigs around the lot, including mine that was there. I became a believer. If you use one take a very close look at your finish. My bet is you can see the small "scratches" that they leave. It was fairly evident on my rig at the time. I had been using the same detail company for years. And this random paint guy has been running that RV business for the last 35 years.

Look, I don't know your paint guy or the rigs you were looking at so I can't say. I do know that a properly used DA or rotary polisher isn't going to leave "scratches" in the paint.

I just finished completely doing up my own RV (clean, iron x, clay, 2 stage polish and seal) and I did see a lot of scratches. Most of them were cleared up with the polisher.

He could have been pointing out checking, or deeper scratches. Again, don't know, wasn't there. Heavy polishing can leave scratches, which is why you would follow up with a finish polish. If the detail company just kept hammering away with a heavy polish, you could surely be left with something resembling scratches. Paint would also look hazy.

Our is 5 years old now and has been renting out for 4 of those.

[CAG]

Good for you.

[Rustynuts]

Big difference between “paint” and “gelcoat” If your rv has full paint, then it has a clear coat over the paint and there is no way you would get to the gelcoat unless you buffed all the paint off. If it is not full paint then you most likely have a gelcoat finish which is sprayed in the fiberglass mold first and there is no issue using power equipment on a gelcoat finish, that’s what most boats have.

[CAG]

Gel coat on an RV and the one on a boat are different in many ways. A boat finish is made to withstand sun, salt and more severe conditions than an RV. Most RV manufacturer put very little effort into the coating that go on to their products. If it shines until it is off the lot, they are happy.

Boats and RVs in the Arizona sun weather much differently.

[Mnwelsh]

First time around the RV or car I use Rejex, and I’ve decided after that I will use 303 spray wax, it’s easer , leaves a great shine and provides good UV protection. It’s the new thing , 303 spray wax and I’m a car/RV nut who’s been detailing vehicles for decades.

[Rustynuts]

Originally Posted by CAG

Gel coat on an RV and the one on a boat are different in many ways. A boat finish is made to withstand sun, salt and more severe conditions than an RV. Most RV manufacturer put very little effort into the coating that go on to their products. If it shines until it is off the lot, they are happy.

Boats and RVs in the Arizona sun weather much differently.

Originally Posted by CAG

Also, some like to use electric orbital machines to apply and polish. I had a front cap repainted a few years back and the RV paint shop strongly recommended not using them and to do it by hand. The gel coat is thin and over time orbitals put small scratches and work through the gel.

The point I was making was you said you had your front cap repainted but then said the shop said not to use power equipment as the gelcoat is thin......if you have a painted surface, you can’t do any damage to the gelcoat unless you destroy the paint first.

[GeorgiaRV]

I've heard ZEP floor wax works really well. I am going to be using this next time I do mine.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/ZEP-1-Ga...F128/202859659

[tom463219]

Rejex is what I use. Twice a year. Bugs on front cap come off real easy. https://www.amazon.com/CorrosionX-61...8857574&sr=8-1

[bill3kirk]

x2

[curver900]

Originally Posted by CAG

Gel coat on an RV and the one on a boat are different in many ways. A boat finish is made to withstand sun, salt and more severe conditions than an RV. Most RV manufacturer put very little effort into the coating that go on to their products. If it shines until it is off the lot, they are happy.

Boats and RVs in the Arizona sun weather much differently.

gel coat is gel coat boat or RV... the sun will wreck it if you don't take care of it.. period.. I have both and can attest to the gel on a boat not treated will oxidize in 12 months to the point you won't be very happy...

[CAG]

Originally Posted by Rustynuts

The point I was making was you said you had your front cap repainted but then said the shop said not to use power equipment as the gelcoat is thin......if you have a painted surface, you can’t do any damage to the gelcoat unless you destroy the paint first.

Sorry, I should have been a little more clear with that. Yes the cap was painted in place of the gel which, due to the error of the maker, it had no UV in the material and oxidized. They paid for the repair.

My discussion with the RV shop owner, who does hundreds of finish repair or replacement a year, of the scratches and gel coat pertained to the rest of the rig that was still original gel coat. I sold the toy hauler in December. The condition that it was in was why it sold it about two weeks. It was 9 years old and the finish was as shiny as new (I used Rejex religiously) but the painter commented on all of the very small scratches. You had to look good to see them but they were there. That was his observation not mine and if someone has a problem with that I will give them the name and phone number for the RV business and they can talk to them. I just passed it on as an observation.

You can always mark damage up the the detailer and of course that could be but he 9my detailer) also admitted that using power tools on RV gel coat does cause some damage over time.

What I find interesting is, present company excluded, if someone makes a statement that points out flaws with some process someone else is using, you get attacked. The statement may be simply passing on information you heard. But some cannot take it for what it is and move on to the next post.

This site is a very good resource for new people but has way too much repetition on certain topics. "What wax should I use/" is one of them.

[TwinDad]

Originally Posted by foglght

Look, I don't know your paint guy or the rigs you were looking at so I can't say. I do know that a properly used DA or rotary polisher isn't going to leave "scratches" in the paint.

I just finished completely doing up my own RV (clean, iron x, clay, 2 stage polish and seal) and I did see a lot of scratches. Most of them were cleared up with the polisher.

He could have been pointing out checking, or deeper scratches. Again, don't know, wasn't there. Heavy polishing can leave scratches, which is why you would follow up with a finish polish. If the detail company just kept hammering away with a heavy polish, you could surely be left with something resembling scratches. Paint would also look hazy.

Our is 5 years old now and has been renting out for 4 of those.

That looks amazing! Looks better than new.

[Joey55]

You are correct, this works very well when you apply multiple coats but you must wash the RV very well first. You can search out the Nomadic Fanatic on Youtube for his video which goes into detail using this. Hope it helps.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IKv_fKJ7wXw&t=382s

[drmike961]

Originally Posted by GeorgiaRV

I've heard ZEP floor wax works really well. I am going to be using this next time I do mine.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/ZEP-1-Ga...F128/202859659

Please NEVER EVER use this on your RV!! EVER!! I did and sure it looked like new...until it didn't. Years later water makes its way underneath the sealer and it starts peeling off everywhere. Then you get to spend an entire weekend using a stripper to remove it and start all over. Do not use, you have been warned. Nothing personal I promise. This was the worse decision that I have ever made regarding my RV's. You just won't realize it until 3-4 years later unless it is stored under cover and does not get wet.

[foglght]

There are a TON of awesome new hybrid ceramic products out there that are easy to apply....and CHEAP.

Turtle wax Seal and Shine (black bottle)
Maguires Hybrid ceramic (blue bottle)

Seal and shine probably out does the Maguires by a bit regarding washes with harsh chemicals. I used the Maguires because it is a little thicker and after the first coat, you can spray it on and power wash it off. I did the whole RV first coat dry application with a 1/4 bottle and they are $14 at Autozone.