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Old 08-31-2015, 12:39 PM   #1
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Schwintek Slide Question

Hey Gang,

So, question for you all. I have a Schintek slide on my bedroom short queen slide out. Its just the bed and the overhead compartments; a relatively small slide and well within what a Schwintek can handle. Its one of the reasons I didn't mind having a Schwintek back there; the slide is small.

So, deploying outwards is no problem. Moves and sounds normal. When I retract, it seems to slow down and 'sounds like its struggling' the last bit of it. It always closes all the way, and the seal on the outside is just as tight as the seal on my PowerGlide slide up front. It just seems to work harder the last bit.

Notes:

A. I always deploy and retract w/ my levelers deployed. So I know I'm not crooked.
B. I always deploy and retract while plugged into the pedestal. The only thing that operates SOLEY on battery power is my initial leveler deployment and my leveler retraction.
C. I always hold the button down for 3-5 seconds when done extending or retracting.
D. For giggles I did the re-sync whereby I retracted a few inches, extended a few inches, retract extend, retract extend. My slide doesn't come in crooked, but I figured it couldn't hurt.

I had thought maybe this is 'normal' as I always had my engine running when deploying the slides on my Minnie Winnie. However, since I deploy my leveling jacks before I open my slides, I don't have the engine running.

*Does anybody know if the BigFoots retract if the engine is running but the transmission is in park?*

I'm thinking the alternator would provide far more amps than the pedestal. Maybe my Minnie Winnie would act the same if I didn't have the engine running?

Is this normal?
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Old 08-31-2015, 01:40 PM   #2
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Bringing the slide in is normally a little harder on the mechanism since it has a slight uphill pull. There are probably some rollers under the bed right near the wall and it is pulling over them with the weight hanging somewhat downward. All of my slides have always seemed a little sluggish when retracting(all 5 units) that we've owned with slides).
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Old 08-31-2015, 01:44 PM   #3
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Okay, that makes me feel better Grumpy. Thanks.
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Old 08-31-2015, 05:35 PM   #4
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Our scwintek slide acts the same way about 2/3rds of the way in on our 2016 24 rls.
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Old 08-31-2015, 06:27 PM   #5
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My bed slide doesn't really seem to struggle but the last couple of inches it slows down as the seals compress and the bed goes up against the wardrobe. What stops these slides is the when the current limit is reached. I do however get a lot of popping when the slide goes in an out and the seal goes over the window. Does yours do this?

I'm fairly certain the Bigfoot levelers don't retract on engine start. I know they don't retract when the key is turned on. However if I remember right they will retract when you go out of park. I can answer that question for sure when I leave my site in two weeks. Right now I don't really want to try it.
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Old 08-31-2015, 06:41 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoppers4 View Post
My bed slide doesn't really seem to struggle but the last couple of inches it slows down as the seals compress and the bed goes up against the wardrobe. What stops these slides is the when the current limit is reached. I do however get a lot of popping when the slide goes in an out and the seal goes over the window. Does yours do this?

I'm fairly certain the Bigfoot levelers don't retract on engine start. I know they don't retract when the key is turned on. However if I remember right they will retract when you go out of park. I can answer that question for sure when I leave my site in two weeks. Right now I don't really want to try it.
I do get popping only on side facing the rear of the trailer,(only going out) It really doesn't sound like the seal going over the window although the guy that gave use our walk though said it was the seal like you described. We just picked it up 8-22-15. I ran it in and out a few times under battery power only. Labor day weekend is our maiden voyage. I need to listen to the popping closer.
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Old 08-31-2015, 08:24 PM   #7
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Labor day weekend is our maiden voyage. I need to listen to the popping closer.
It'll be interesting to see what you find out. I also ran into this article that talks about the popping noise. I bought the lube and then couldn't find the "gibbs" they were talking about.

http://winnebagoind.com/resources/se...0Mechanism.pdf
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Old 09-01-2015, 04:34 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hoppers4 View Post
It'll be interesting to see what you find out. I also ran into this article that talks about the popping noise. I bought the lube and then couldn't find the "gibbs" they were talking about.

http://winnebagoind.com/resources/se...0Mechanism.pdf
The Tech at the RV dealer instructed me that in the event I needed to manually retract the slide remove a single screw at the top of outside rubber seal. Then slide the seal down, at this point you'll see the wire connector on the motor. Remove the connector on the motor and it will slide in. This made no sense to me.

Just a thought if your coach has the silver screw at the top of the seal,(outside) by removing it the seal should slide down allowing access to the drive better. Maybe some lube will help the seal move.
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Old 09-01-2015, 06:11 AM   #9
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I have a problem with the Schwintek slide on our Seneca bunk slide. Since Week 1 we noticed that the lower left corner doesn't retract all the way compressing the seal fully like the other three corners. I'm hoping that when I take it back to Jayco in IN (the only ones I trust to fix this) next month it will fix the slide wanting to stop part way in or out. It's been a true frustration for the first year of ownership. I always level the coach before extending and retract it before retracting the levelers.
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Old 09-01-2015, 06:42 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jim shoes View Post
The Tech at the RV dealer instructed me that in the event I needed to manually retract the slide remove a single screw at the top of outside rubber seal. Then slide the seal down, at this point you'll see the wire connector on the motor. Remove the connector on the motor and it will slide in. This made no sense to me.
There is always a small amount of power to the slide motor which activates the brake. Removing the wiring releases the brake so you can push the slide in. When you reconnect the wire it reactivates the brake.
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