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Old 04-25-2020, 04:10 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Mad5581 View Post
James AO. If you noticed my comment was more about leaving everything OE. Yes your right if you want to step up and dump a bunch of cash into your setup and go with victron or another smart inverter charger or a solid solar system sure you can definitely take advantage of the maximum capacity of lithium batteries. My point was even though all the "good" lithium battery manufacturers say they are drop ins they are but you wont get the maximum benefit of the lithium battery using your oem charger. And I understand the wire capacity is about amps not volts. That said if your pushing higher voltage your likely to be pushing more amps also.
I understand your point. But if you are going to switch to Li-ion your are likely looking at least 2-4 of them. In the case of BattleBorn that is a $2-4k investment. For only another $300 you can replace just the converter section of your Progressive Dynamics power center with their newer Li-ion compatible converter. It is a fairly easy swap. Using my 2014 FS as an example, my Progressive Dynamics PD4590K power center has a 90amp @ 13.6 vex converter (charger). They offer a Li-ion drop in replacement converter that outputs 90amps @ 14.6vdc so it will fully charge the Li-ion batteries. I think spending another 10% on the project probably wouldn’t be a deal breaker for someone wanting the benefits of Li-ion.

Regarding the wire size question: as voltage increases, current decreases given a constant load. This is demonstrated by the power equation: P=I x E, where P is power, I is current, and E is voltage. If the load is held constant (P), and voltage (E) is increased, then current (I) must decrease. In general running loads at higher voltages results in lower current and allows the use of smaller wire.
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Old 04-25-2020, 04:49 PM   #22
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Dealing with charging it’s just a matter of matching the voltage and current and having a controller to do so well. In my research the bigger problem became the cranking amps needed to start the generator. I forget now if I would’ve needed three or four lithium batteries to not exceed their hundred amp output maximum rated load.

How do you overcome that one?
The constant max discharge rate for one BattleBorn li-ion is 100 amps, but for 30 seconds it will deliver 2x or 200 amps, and for 1/2 second even higher. I don’t know what the starting current is for a Onan 8k, but I do know that the Onan 4k constant cranking current is around 53amps and the initial in-rush momentary current should be 5-6x higher, so 250-300 amps for a brief moment before achieving constant crank current status. I assume the Onan 8k would be more, but I don’t know how much more. You would have to ask Onan. I do know that the installation I recently did had the Onan 10K, and after going through the BattleBorn consultation process we decided 3 batteries in the Tiffin Phaeton was enough. After about 2 months of use, there hasn’t been any problem starting the generator off of the 3 BattleBorns. Based on that I would guess that 2 BattleBorns would start the Onan 8k without a problem, but until I eventually do it to mine, you’ll have to dig into it a bit further to be sure.
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Old 04-26-2020, 11:26 AM   #23
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In our Seneca, We have two charging sources that provide for charging the Chassis and House Batteries. Both of these have charge regulation set for Flooded Lead-Acid batteries with three stage battery maintenance/storage feature and a Battery Isolation Manager connected between the two battery arrays to charge each other.

Knowing that LiFePo batteries have much different charging requirements than Lead-Acid batteries - and LiFePo batteries require charging equipment specific to that type of battery, because of the known variations in voltage between them and Lead-Acid.

That said, Adding Solar with a charge controller for LiFePo covers these batteries in the house, but will overcharge the chassis batteries. Then, what about when the vehicle is on the road and running the charging circuit from the chassis Charging system designed for Lead-Acid is charging the LiFePo batteries. - It appears that these do not work well when connected by the Battery Isolation Manager (BIM) when it us monitoring charge state by voltage and connecting each type of battery for charging by One of the two sources.
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Old 04-26-2020, 09:02 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by SloPoke View Post
In our Seneca, We have two charging sources that provide for charging the Chassis and House Batteries. Both of these have charge regulation set for Flooded Lead-Acid batteries with three stage battery maintenance/storage feature and a Battery Isolation Manager connected between the two battery arrays to charge each other.

Knowing that LiFePo batteries have much different charging requirements than Lead-Acid batteries - and LiFePo batteries require charging equipment specific to that type of battery, because of the known variations in voltage between them and Lead-Acid.

That said, Adding Solar with a charge controller for LiFePo covers these batteries in the house, but will overcharge the chassis batteries. Then, what about when the vehicle is on the road and running the charging circuit from the chassis Charging system designed for Lead-Acid is charging the LiFePo batteries. - It appears that these do not work well when connected by the Battery Isolation Manager (BIM) when it us monitoring charge state by voltage and connecting each type of battery for charging by One of the two sources.
From studying the a few different solar charge controller set-up manuals, I've come to the conclusion that although each different battery type has different charge parameters, the differences are not all that large and mainly represent differences in OPTIMAL charge parameters. In the chart in the pic (this one is from Renogy but others are very similar) you can see that the max charging voltage, boost voltage, and float voltage do not vary a huge amount from battery type to battery type. The biggest difference is in equalization charge voltage, and this is critical because applying the normally much higher equalization voltage to a Li-ion battery is really bad for it and causes battery damage. Nobody wants to do that to $1,000/battery batteries, so Equalization charging Li-ion is not allowed (but if your charge controller has to have an Equalization setting selected for Li-ion you must not select anything higher than 13.6 volts. So if your converter is not Li-ion capable specifically, it will still charge your Li-ion drop-in batteries (like BattleBorn), just not optimally. And, it will not harm your Li-ion batteries as long as you do not enable an equalization mode at any voltage above 13.6.

Regarding the BIRD or BIM, this area is a little less clear to me. I think I understand now that if the BIRD or BIM changeover threshold voltage is too low, your house battery bank charging sources will not adequately charge your chassis battery. That's why there are now replacement BIM's that are Li-ion compatible specific. I had to install one in my last install a few weeks ago. It solved the problem and still provides all of the stock BIRD or BIM features. I don't believe the alternator charging the house batteries rolling down the road is a problem. Alternators typically output less than 14 volts and the LI-ion's like BattleBorns like to be charged at 14.4 volts optimally.

If I have any of wrong, I look forward to being corrected. Again, I'm trying to learn as much as possible about this topic as possible, as my next house battery change I will likely go Li-ion. My change is not gong to be soon though, the neighbor I did the solar and Battleborn install for gave me his 4 nearly new good quality 6 volt golf cart battery "take-offs", so I am set for awhile, especially since i also have solar.
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Old 05-14-2020, 07:38 PM   #25
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Decided on AGM

After all if the information I read on this; I decided to go with four AGM golf cart batteries. Variety of reasons for this decision, but cost was a big one.
I have them installed and like the way it turned out.
One other thing I learned is the number 1 fuse, In the bedroom panel, is well hidden. if you” burn” out that fuse when changing batteries, It is tucked under the plastic cover laughing at your misfortune.
Thanks for all your help and Robby’s insight.
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Old 05-14-2020, 08:39 PM   #26
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Glad you're back in business!
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