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Old 11-25-2017, 04:02 PM   #1
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Seneca Dash Speakers Replacement

Looks like my right front dash speaker is blown. Would like to order Pioneer replacements and have them on-hand before taking the dash apart. Best I can tell, they are 5.25 inch speakers. Can anyone confirm this. Thanks.
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Old 11-25-2017, 04:43 PM   #2
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Looks like my right front dash speaker is blown. Would like to order Pioneer replacements and have them on-hand before taking the dash apart. Best I can tell, they are 5.25 inch speakers. Can anyone confirm this. Thanks.
Yes, 5.25" is correct.

I replaced mine with the Alpine units pictured below, they do sound so much richer that the stock Freightliner ones I removed (and are in the Alpine box now!). Along with my Alpine subwoofer, I have half-decent sound in my cab now. Listen mostly to Sirius cruising down the road.
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Old 11-25-2017, 06:23 PM   #3
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Yes, 5.25" is correct.

I replaced mine with the Alpine units pictured below, they do sound so much richer that the stock Freightliner ones I removed (and are in the Alpine box now!). Along with my Alpine subwoofer, I have half-decent sound in my cab now. Listen mostly to Sirius cruising down the road.
Gotta see the thread where you installed the SubWoofer... Our sounds on the road suck... We are considering upgrading while we are out on the road south... (was installing the air-horns today)
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Old 11-25-2017, 07:19 PM   #4
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Gotta see the thread where you installed the SubWoofer... Our sounds on the road suck... We are considering upgrading while we are out on the road south... (was installing the air-horns today)
Here is the thread where I attached a picture of the subwoofer I installed under the front passenger seat. https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...eca-34762.html

For power for the sub I snaked a large-gauge wire under the carpet to an unused fuse terminal behind the driver's seat and used an AMI/MIDI fuse sourced here: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...004ZJ0QKG?th=1

The signal RCA wires went under the carpet from the sub to the radio subwoofer outputs, both the original Clarion NX-501 and the replacement NX-706 had them readily available. The Clarions both also have a remote amp turn-on trigger wire which went along with the signal cables.

The sub also has a remote level control that I placed under the dash on the driver's side so I can control the "thump" level.
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Old 11-26-2017, 07:03 AM   #5
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Yes, 5.25" is correct.

I replaced mine with the Alpine units pictured below, they do sound so much richer that the stock Freightliner ones I removed (and are in the Alpine box now!). Along with my Alpine subwoofer, I have half-decent sound in my cab now. Listen mostly to Sirius cruising down the road.
Thanks Rob. I think I'll go with the Alpine SPS-510 that you used.
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Old 11-26-2017, 08:20 AM   #6
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FYI...Best Buy has the Pioneer TS-G1345R, regularly $49.99, on sale for $14.99 pr with free shipping! Could not pass it up. Lots of good reviews on this 5.25" speaker as well.
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Old 11-26-2017, 10:41 AM   #7
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FYI...Best Buy has the Pioneer TS-G1345R, regularly $49.99, on sale for $14.99 pr with free shipping! Could not pass it up. Lots of good reviews on this 5.25" speaker as well.
I'm sure they will sound good.

One thing I did was transfer the O.E. Freightliner connection from the old speakers to the new. Then it was "plug and play" when the new ones went in. Just some minor unsoldering/soldering that took minutes.
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Old 11-29-2017, 04:10 PM   #8
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Finished speaker replacement...

Just finished up...took about 1.5 hours.

1. Remove black trim panel first (note that four screws on the driver side are longer than the rest.

2. Remove passenger side bottom dash kick panel (4 screws).

3. Remove top dash panel.

Had all panels removed in 15 minutes.

Very easy...just keep track of which screws go where ( I used an egg carton). All screws were T25.

Reused existing speaker mounting brackets.

Sounds a lot better!!
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Old 11-29-2017, 05:54 PM   #9
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Nice work!
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Old 12-02-2017, 08:31 PM   #10
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javamon, thanks for the egg carton idea to keep track of the different fasteners.
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Old 12-03-2017, 07:03 PM   #11
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Today I replaced our two front speakers with Kicker CSC5 5.25" 225W 2 Way I picked up on amazon for $35. Wow the sound is so much better than the factory speakers. Oh when the wife was playing around with the Jensen in the camera mode, she found out we do have a rear mic so you can hear the person direction when parking the rv.
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Old 12-04-2017, 08:39 PM   #12
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Just finished up...took about 1.5 hours.

1. Remove black trim panel first (note that four screws on the driver side are longer than the rest.

2. Remove passenger side bottom dash kick panel (4 screws).

3. Remove top dash panel.

Had all panels removed in 15 minutes.

Very easy...just keep track of which screws go where ( I used an egg carton). All screws were T25.

Reused existing speaker mounting brackets.

Sounds a lot better!!
Dave,

When you say "Remove passenger side bottom dash kick panel (4 screws)." Where are you referring to? If it's the dash I only see 2 screws on the bottom. Where are the other 2?

I got to tell you I am apprehensive to pull my dash apart but I know I will feel better after I know I can do it.

Thanks, Mark
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Old 12-05-2017, 06:19 AM   #13
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Dave,

When you say "Remove passenger side bottom dash kick panel (4 screws)." Where are you referring to? If it's the dash I only see 2 screws on the bottom. Where are the other 2?

I got to tell you I am apprehensive to pull my dash apart but I know I will feel better after I know I can do it.

Thanks, Mark
There are two more screws under the black trim nose piece that also secure the passenger kick panel. It really is easy...I was surprised how quick it came apart. I was a little nervous as well because I've only messed with car dashes in the past and they are a pain. This dash is a breeze.
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Old 12-05-2017, 11:59 AM   #14
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As I was looking for the screws to remove dash on passenger side, I pushed on the step and it felt sort of loose. I crawl under the cab and this is what I found. I have no clue as to how to correct this other than placing a shim between the bracket and the step housing.

And of course the photos self rotate.
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Old 12-05-2017, 12:43 PM   #15
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As I was looking for the screws to remove dash on passenger side, I pushed on the step and it felt sort of loose. I crawl under the cab and this is what I found. I have no clue as to how to correct this other than placing a shim between the bracket and the step housing.

And of course the photos self rotate.
Mark - The steps on mine were similar, the passenger side only had one of the four screws actually hit the supports! I removed mine to have them shot with bedliner to replace the troublesome stick-on pads and then used stainless steel rivnuts and bolts to reattach the steps. I had gaps too when I set them in place but gradually tightened my four (new) holdown bolts and the steps flexed and tightened down on the mounting pads.

The screws Jayco uses are self-tapping and very hard, they may snap off if you try to tighten yours if there is any corrosion between the screw and the mounting frame underneath. The way to get to the screw heads is under the stick-on non-skid pad, you have to poke a hole in them if you want to try to tighten the screws.

When I took my pads off I discovered Jayco had "tried" to hit the support several times leaving extra holes covered by the original pads. I had them filled (with fiberglass) when my steps were coated. Now my steps are both secure and can also be easily removed without breaking off screws (hopefully).

Perhaps you could just shim it up for now, but I have a feeling you eventually will want to "improve" the setup.
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Rivet nut close up.jpg   Rivet nuts installed in step supports.jpg   20161128_123520_resized.jpg  
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Old 12-05-2017, 03:09 PM   #16
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I meant to include that I used rivnuts since it is very difficult to access the back side of the step supports and use nuts and washers on the securing bolts. The rivnuts allow for a "blind" installation of the bolts.
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Old 12-05-2017, 06:08 PM   #17
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Re: The nutzerts, did you use any anti-seize on the bolt threads? I'm sure Ohio uses something similar to the brine that Michigan sprays on their road surfaces. I've seen the tracks when they pre-treat the roads.
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Old 12-05-2017, 06:22 PM   #18
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Re: The nutzerts, did you use any anti-seize on the bolt threads? I'm sure Ohio uses something similar to the brine that Michigan sprays on their road surfaces. I've seen the tracks when they pre-treat the roads.
We do indeed have more salt and brine on our roads than asphalt it seems!

My rivnuts and the bolts I used are both stainless, but I did also coat them in anti-sieze before installation. The self-tapping screws Jayco used were all seized in place, and several I had to whiz wheel off!
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Old 12-06-2017, 08:38 AM   #19
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Rob what size ss Rivnuts did you use on securing your steps? 1/4-20 or 5/16-18.

ed
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Old 12-06-2017, 12:45 PM   #20
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Rob what size ss Rivnuts did you use on securing your steps? 1/4-20 or 5/16-18.
Ed,

They were 1/4"-20. The bolts are socket head (allen) for easy tightening, and (hopefully) easy removal when required. I also used stainless washers under the bolt heads, had to slightly grind them to fit down into the countersunk holes in the steps so as to provide even clamping force. Jayco laminated wood (plywood I think) into the step treads, so the washers help prevent pull-thru.

So far so good!
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