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Old 04-26-2017, 10:11 AM   #11
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I'm new to the Seneca (pick it up next week). Two questions: Are those panels you all are cutting holes through part of a ventilation barrier to keep furnace heat in so the tank doesn't freeze when camping in freezing weather? Second, where is the drain valve for the fresh water tank? That valve was well hidden on my previous motorhome.

Thanks.
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Old 04-26-2017, 12:54 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crossingover View Post
I'm new to the Seneca (pick it up next week). Two questions: Are those panels you all are cutting holes through part of a ventilation barrier to keep furnace heat in so the tank doesn't freeze when camping in freezing weather? Second, where is the drain valve for the fresh water tank? That valve was well hidden on my previous motorhome.

Thanks.
As far as the panel, it does not completely enclose my tank. In the passenger side compartment 2nd from the back, the panel only blocks the top half. If you get down and then peer upwards in that compartment behind the panel you can see the end of the water tank. Does the panel serve to help keep the heat on top (warm air rises)? It might, but not to a great extent IMHO.

My TS water tank drain valve is accessible in that same passenger side compartment on the tank fill/drain line. There is one pipe that comes into the bottom (passenger) side of my water tank, through that line the tank either fills or is sent to the water pump depending on the settings of the valves. Right near where that line enters my tank there is a "tee" and a drain valve with a nipple leading down so it can drain underneath. The valve handle itself is all that is visible inside that compartment and very easy to miss if you are unfamiliar. It is labeled "low point drain" on mine, but even the label is hard to find unless you are looking.

By the way it takes forever to empty the tank via that drain if you have any quantity of water in the tank, if memory serves it is just a 1/2" PEX line. To speed things up I leave the drain closed so the pump can draw water from the tank and open the other drains which are on the pressure side of the water system. Then when the pump sucks air I open that valve to let the rest passively drain. But if time is no concern it will eventually empty just by opening the valve.
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Old 04-26-2017, 01:53 PM   #13
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I like this

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Originally Posted by byrdbody View Post
Attachment 30719 Mine was sagging bad so I installed 1"X1" square tubes on the bottom side of the sagging plastic compartment. As you can see there is enough room for the square tubes to rest on the channels on each end. I also tac welded each end to secure them from moving or falling out. Simple fix.
So how hard was it to install these tubes ? as I like the stability of welded support
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Old 04-26-2017, 02:03 PM   #14
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Worked on trucks for many years and welding on frame flange was a no-no. As a frame flexed (it will) a Crack will start next to a weld. Small tacks behind rear axle probably not too bad.

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Old 04-26-2017, 02:32 PM   #15
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I would probably weld a strap across all them right next to frame rail on each side to keep them from walking and keep the frame untouched
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Old 04-26-2017, 04:21 PM   #16
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I cut them longer than just catching the distance from frame to frame. I welded the ends the full inch width of the square tubes. These units are not usually driven day and night like over the road truck so I doubt very much any cracks could every derive from any such welding. I will keep my eye on them as time goes by just to make sure nothing changes.
Bottom line is I don't need my fresh water tank getting a hernia.
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Old 04-26-2017, 05:20 PM   #17
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I supported mine with 4 ft x 8 ft sheet of OSB Board cut to allow it to fit in the compartment. It really wasn't very difficult to install with an empty tank. I forget the dimensions I had the OSB cut to, but I wrote it up on this site back when I did it, if you want to search.

The carpet cover board you mentioned has nothing to do with insulation or warmth. Its just cosmetic. On the 37FS, there is a low point drain on each side and marked.

As far as filling, I've connected all 3 of the overflow vents together and ran to the driver's side with a valve right by the fill point. When water runs out there, we are full. It takes on a whole lot of water after the 4 lights are lit.
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Old 04-27-2017, 06:29 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robbbyr View Post
By the way it takes forever to empty the tank via that drain
Previous MH had a fat drain line with big plastic ball valve so I could drain 75 gallons in no time. I like to travel with full freshwater but also drain and refill periodically to keep it 'fresh' with periodic bleach additions in between.

Thanks for the detailed descriptions.
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Old 04-28-2017, 08:20 AM   #19
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Hope to get unit out of storage this weekend, will look at this area. As I installed a 50 gallon water tank in this area??? and then fitted it up to the floor may have taken care of the floor sag issue? Will have to put my boro scope up there and see if I may have fixed this issue. Unless the 37rb model postions their tanks in a different area.
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Old 04-29-2017, 06:58 PM   #20
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I have yet to find that hose from the furnace that's supposed to heat the tanks. That's a large area for one hose to heat. I'm more worried about the water and sewer valves in the back compartment! I put a small elect. heater in there when temps drop below 32 degrees. I've checked that compartment with the furnace running and it's the same as ambient!
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