Seneca Modifications

[javamon]

Originally Posted by ed4ster

Well finally got to installing a bed lift to our master bed. Now it's a one person job to get into the storage space under the bed.

FYI it was a Hatchlift BLK-LGE Large Bedlift kit

Thanks Ed. Thanks for sharing...I will follow your lead. Definitely too heavy and awkward without a lift-assist.

[Fishman417]

I did not see your earlier post on the bed lift, but was the bed a king and what model is your Seneca? I want to make sure your model is the same as mine when copying how you did the bed lift. Thanks for the pics.

[Robbbyr]

I am pretty sure he has an FS - bunkhouse version. Those have a fixed bed allowing for the use of standard mounted bed lifts. If your HJ has a bed platform that slides over a fixed bed base when the slideout moves in and out, what he depicts won't work in that case. I came up with a design that works on mine, wife loves it since it now can be raised with one hand and stays up when raised.

[dhauser]

Originally Posted by Robbbyr

I am pretty sure he has an FS - bunkhouse version. Those have a fixed bed allowing for the use of standard mounted bed lifts. If your HJ has a bed platform that slides over a fixed bed base when the slideout moves in and out, what he depicts won't work in that case. I came up with a design that works on mine, wife loves it since it now can be raised with one hand and stays up when raised.

The picture sure looks like that, only the Embark bunkhouse TB390 has the master bed slide like the HJ

[Mark S]

Originally Posted by Robbbyr

I am pretty sure he has an FS - bunkhouse version. Those have a fixed bed allowing for the use of standard mounted bed lifts. If your HJ has a bed platform that slides over a fixed bed base when the slideout moves in and out, what he depicts won't work in that case. I came up with a design that works on mine, wife loves it since it now can be raised with one hand and stays up when raised.

Hi Rob,

We are still on the road, just left Maine this morning and spending a couple days in Laconia, NH.

I was informed that I am to ask you about the mod that allows DW to raise bed without me I am trying to think up a design but can't seem to figure how you did it.

Thanks, Mark

[Robbbyr]

Originally Posted by Mark S

Hi Rob,

We are still on the road, just left Maine this morning and spending a couple days in Laconia, NH.

I was informed that I am to ask you about the mod that allows DW to raise bed without me I am trying to think up a design but can't seem to figure how you did it.

Thanks, Mark

We must have passed on the road! I just came from NH to Boothbay, Maine early today!

Did Jayco change the bedroom slide in the newer Senecas to a Schwintek mechanism? Or does your underbed area have slideout hardware that looks like the attached picture? If it looks like my picture my fabricated bracket would work to allow attachment of pneumatic lift cylinders.

If you have the Schwintek slide (has "tracks" on the outside exposed sides of the slideout) I have not researched how a lift might be accomplished on that style slideout. But where there is a will, there is a way!

[Fishman417]

Rob, thanks. Do you have pic on how you installed yours? I'm really interested in installing lifts in our rig.

[Robbbyr]

Originally Posted by Fishman417

Rob, thanks. Do you have pic on how you installed yours? I'm really interested in installing lifts in our rig.

Here is a link to the forum page where I detail the installation.
http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f3...fts-40288.html

What you need to determine first is if you have the same Power Gear bedroom slideout mechanism. It needs to look like what is in my pictures. I believe some of the newest Senecas have a Schwintek bedroom slideout system that is not compatible with the adapter bracket I fabricated. I have supplied them to a few other members to install, working on an alternate design for another member with an Embark which has a slightly different slideout trolley mechanism.

[Mark S]

Originally Posted by Robbbyr

Here is a link to the forum page where I detail the installation.
http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f3...fts-40288.html

What you need to determine first is if you have the same Power Gear bedroom slideout mechanism. It needs to look like what is in my pictures. I believe some of the newest Senecas have a Schwintek bedroom slideout system that is not compatible with the adapter bracket I fabricated. I have supplied them to a few other members to install, working on an alternate design for another member with an Embark which has a slightly different slideout trolley mechanism.

It appears that they have changed the under bed system as mine is not the same as yours ):

[dhauser]

Just finished the install of Oxygenics Fury RV shower head and Dura Faucet Designer RV shower faucet in my Embark. Had to take apart the Dura Faucet to flip it so the shower outlet was on the bottom. Also had to order some butyl tape or putty tape to seal up the shower box.

[Wandermuch]

Originally Posted by goofy

I have done several small mods-additions to my 2015 Seneca and decided to start a thread to share my ideas and perhaps pick-up on a few tricks you folks may have done to your rig.Starting from the front :

-full body oil treatment for rust
-Added an air horn
-Sunshade for the front cab (SunPro)
- CB
-Scan Guage
-Rubber spacers on hubcaps to prevent the crackling noise
-Tape on mirror brackets
-A label on dash beside airbrake button with height in feet and meters
-A plywood covered with carpet to cover the staircase hole inside while traveling
-Silicone on top of shower ( between shower body and wall )
-change bracket on emergeny window and added screen so now it can be opened
-Led fog lights in back to see better when backing up

Thats it now !

On the emergency window modification: where did you get the screen and replacement latch?

[Robbbyr]

Originally Posted by Mark S

It appears that they have changed the under bed system as mine is not the same as yours ):

Yes, the new ones I saw at the factory earlier this year used the Schwintek mechanism. "Gear tracks" on the exterior sides of the slideout. Having that type seems to provide additional space under the bed, but it sure "complicates" adding a lift mechanism as I did to my Power Gear-equipped slide.

I have not had any issues with my Power Gear bedroom slide, I wonder why they changed it to a Schwintek?

[Dananu]

Originally Posted by Robbbyr

Yes, the new ones I saw at the factory earlier this year used the Schwintek mechanism. "Gear tracks" on the exterior sides of the slideout. Having that type seems to provide additional space under the bed, but it sure "complicates" adding a lift mechanism as I did to my Power Gear-equipped slide.

I have not had any issues with my Power Gear bedroom slide, I wonder why they changed it to a Schwintek?

Rob,
My thoughts before finding your mod was to someway hinge a 2x4? near the bed hinge that would slide out on the fixed platform and when the bed is lifted opposite end would stay on platform and anchor lifts from it to bed deck. Never thought about it again after I found and built your solution.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[RayBo]

Hello Sir,
I just watched your video regarding your overview of a year in a 2013 Seneca. Mine is a 2012. I don't do full time (yet) but we do about 6 days a month. I have a number of questions, but for now you mentioned at one point that you changed to 22.5" wheels/tires. I've been wanting to do this to mine, but wasn't sure about clearance. Did you have to do anything to the coach, or was it just a wheel/tire swap? Please let me know.

Ray

[brtnsnwbrds10]

Hey Robbbyr,

looking at this modification to my steps as well since they are all peeling up already. do you recall what the approximate cost was for the steps?

Originally Posted by Robbbyr

Finished upgrade of my cab steps, maybe my last project of 2016. Like many of our units, the stick-on non-skid pad was badly frayed and peeling off. So I had the steps shot in textured bed liner including around the fuel fill inlets.

I was disappointed in how poorly Jayco mounted the steps, the passenger side step had only one (of the 4) self-tapping bolts actually hit the step support. The driver's side they scored with 3! The bolts were plain steel and quite rusted and a real pain to remove. I knew I could do better putting them back on. I decided to install stainless steel rivet nuts into the step supports where my new countersunk head stainless steel bolts will anchor the steps down. Although I don't anticipate having to remove the steps in the future, should I need to take them off it will be a simple job.

I have attached a few pictures so you can see the rivet nuts and then the finished installation. The bed liner should provide better service than the original pads, at least I hope it does.

Many thanks to other forum members who suggested this mod!

[Robbbyr]

Originally Posted by brtnsnwbrds10

Hey Robbbyr,

looking at this modification to my steps as well since they are all peeling up already. do you recall what the approximate cost was for the steps?

It was about $400 out the door. That was to repair the "extra" holes in the fiberglass Jayco drilled in their futile attempts to hit the support underneath, and to prep and shoot both steps with the bedliner material. But I supplied all the labor and new stainless hardware to (properly) remount them. They told me it would be slightly less if they shot the entire step, but I elected to have them mask and just shoot the treads and fuel fill area. I think they look better that way.

I can say a year out I am very happy with how things worked out. Much more secure, much more slip-resistant, and much better looking than tattered stick-on pads. Plus I have fuel fill area protection that shows no deterioration after a year of use.

[RayBo]

Hi,
So I think Rob's suggestion is best. My situation happened in torrential rain a long way from home, and those pretty lousy plastic steps kept slipping off. Not having the "right" solution at hand because we were in the woods in the mountains, I improvised. I added some regular aluminum door thresholds with several screws that I got at the Lowe's in Southern PoDunk. I intend to do it "right" with the bedliner stuff, because I really think that is a great answer. For now, though, it will last me until I get home and the step treads are not slipping off (for now.)


Ray

[Dananu]

My newest project was to build and install an aluminum box between the frame rails behind the axle. Not really handy to get to, but will use it to carry gas cans for atv and boat motor. No fumes in basement. Built with parts on hand.

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[rgolding]

Wow! I've thought of using that space, but you have carried this to a NEW thought pattern for me. Yes, I agree, it is not a easily accessed spot, but there are so many things you just want to carry and only need occasionally . Very Nice!

[RayBo]

I like your idea. Having broken my back in the Army, the "hard to get to" part of your solution maybe could stop me on that plan. If you'd like an alternate idea, I offer my 2¢, and I'm offering it for the discounted price of 0¢ today only...so of course, take that for what it's worth. :-)

I've considered using that space for the same reason...carrying fuel, because we do extended stays, carry ATVs, motorcycles, etc. My idea comes from observation of some of my work trucks that carry aluminum tanks which have 12v transfer pumps, retractable 20’ hoses and filler necks in the bed for use in fueling our tractors and farm equipment.

You can buy these things at Tractor Supply, Northern Tool, probably lots of places locally in standard configurations, but if you wanted a special size, shape, etc., you can go to any place that makes fuel tanks for boats, where they will make any complex size and shape you want. Make sure to include longitudinal baffles else the slosh may cause the tail to wag the dog.

I am thinking of mounting one under there (there's room for close to 90 gal) and also installing a smaller box astern toward the rear fascia of the Seneca for the hose, pump, switches and fuel gauge. I'd tie this box to the medial wall of the rearmost basement compartment so that I can use it easily (or my wife can) and accomplish what you're describing by just opening the door instead of crawling underneath. (Away from generator aka ignition source.)

I also plan to add plumbing and a 3-way valve so that I can have a really extended period of generator running if I choose it.

The filler neck is the current engineering challenge, because they're always on top else you can't fill the tank. I'm leaning toward running the neck into a spot inside the basement door and fashioning a simple bulkhead fitting.

Also, having recently hit a large (24") trunion on the interstate that fell off a junk truck, and seeing the damage it did to my horse trailer, I'm going to install a steel "skid plate" under the tank for added safety. I'll place a thing rubber sheet between the tank and plate to prevent galvanic corrosion and noise.

Haven't gotten to carrying out that project yet, but when I do, I'll post some pictures.