Seneca Modifications

[goofy]

Wandermuch,

Sorry for the long response time,

The screen and latch were provided by my local dealer who did the install.

They were both standard size and readily available...

I still think this was one of my best mods

[RVermont]

Q d


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[brtnsnwbrds10]

Did you install the center support? Mine doesn’t have this

[brtnsnwbrds10]

Originally Posted by ed4ster

Well finally got to installing a bed lift to our master bed. Now it's a one person job to get into the storage space under the bed.

FYI it was a Hatchlift BLK-LGE Large Bedlift kit

Did you add the center support?

[Robbbyr]

Originally Posted by brtnsnwbrds10

Did you add the center support?

What model year/model Seneca do you have? The particular unit you own dictates how the bed supports can be installed.

[brtnsnwbrds10]

I have a 2016 37FS JUSt AS THE OP but mine doesn’t have that bracing.

[Robbbyr]

Originally Posted by brtnsnwbrds10

I have a 2016 37FS JUSt AS THE OP but mine doesn’t have that bracing.

Thanks. A FS with its fixed bed can use a traditional bed lift kit once the center support is added as Ed did to his. Other Seneca models with sliding beds have to be modified differently.

[brtnsnwbrds10]

So the best method would be to put a center brace in vs running the struts up the sides?

[Robbbyr]

Originally Posted by brtnsnwbrds10

So the best method would be to put a center brace in vs running the struts up the sides?

I think on an FS either location would work, but you would likely need to reinforce the bed base sides if you decide to locate the struts there. I say this because I took my bed base apart (to shrink it from a King to a Queen) and the structure is not very substantial. And those struts exert a lot of force holding up the mattress platform with the mattress and bedding on it. You want to make sure the mounts don't pull out under load which could cause it to fall unexpectedly.

I did see an installation where 3/4" plywood was attached to the inside of the bed base to provide a solid point to attach the lower mounts of the struts. The pieces went down to the floor to provide plenty of support. They don't take up much room so you continue to maximize storage space.

[brtnsnwbrds10]

Originally Posted by Robbbyr

I think on an FS either location would work, but you would likely need to reinforce the bed base sides if you decide to locate the struts there. I say this because I took my bed base apart (to shrink it from a King to a Queen) and the structure is not very substantial. And those struts exert a lot of force holding up the mattress platform with the mattress and bedding on it. You want to make sure the mounts don't pull out under load which could cause it to fall unexpectedly.

I did see an installation where 3/4" plywood was attached to the inside of the bed base to provide a solid point to attach the lower mounts of the struts. The pieces went down to the floor to provide plenty of support. They don't take up much room so you continue to maximize storage space.

That’s what I was thinking maybe cut some rectangles large enough to go on the sides of the bed nd cover from top to bottom and 10” wide or so. On one side there is a false bottom that houses all the electrical stuff from the circuit breakers/fuses. I think it should be good with some reinforcement.

On another note have you heard of the refrigerator beeping and saying lo DC when it’s on battery power?

[lonestarrpm]

Originally Posted by RayBo

I like your idea. Having broken my back in the Army, the "hard to get to" part of your solution maybe could stop me on that plan. If you'd like an alternate idea, I offer my 2¢, and I'm offering it for the discounted price of 0¢ today only...so of course, take that for what it's worth. :-)

I've considered using that space for the same reason...carrying fuel, because we do extended stays, carry ATVs, motorcycles, etc. My idea comes from observation of some of my work trucks that carry aluminum tanks which have 12v transfer pumps, retractable 20’ hoses and filler necks in the bed for use in fueling our tractors and farm equipment.

You can buy these things at Tractor Supply, Northern Tool, probably lots of places locally in standard configurations, but if you wanted a special size, shape, etc., you can go to any place that makes fuel tanks for boats, where they will make any complex size and shape you want. Make sure to include longitudinal baffles else the slosh may cause the tail to wag the dog.

I am thinking of mounting one under there (there's room for close to 90 gal) and also installing a smaller box astern toward the rear fascia of the Seneca for the hose, pump, switches and fuel gauge. I'd tie this box to the medial wall of the rearmost basement compartment so that I can use it easily (or my wife can) and accomplish what you're describing by just opening the door instead of crawling underneath. (Away from generator aka ignition source.)

I also plan to add plumbing and a 3-way valve so that I can have a really extended period of generator running if I choose it.

The filler neck is the current engineering challenge, because they're always on top else you can't fill the tank. I'm leaning toward running the neck into a spot inside the basement door and fashioning a simple bulkhead fitting.

Also, having recently hit a large (24") trunion on the interstate that fell off a junk truck, and seeing the damage it did to my horse trailer, I'm going to install a steel "skid plate" under the tank for added safety. I'll place a thing rubber sheet between the tank and plate to prevent galvanic corrosion and noise.

Haven't gotten to carrying out that project yet, but when I do, I'll post some pictures.

You might consider a racing fuel cell.
At least borrow the foam insert idea to keep the fuel from sloshing.

I like the idea of carry extra fuel for my race car, so I might steal this idea. One of my concerns of towing to the track is how do I refill the race car after my jugs are dry.

A fuel cell with a 12v fuel pump and on off switch gets it out, I’m sure there’s a means for getting it in as well. You’ll also want to have it vented.

Mike

[lonestarrpm]

Originally Posted by Dananu

I added in inverter outlet below cabinet over counter. I just tied it into the microwave outlet.Attachment 30272
Also added an inverter outlet by vanity outlet tied to inverter breakers.Attachment 30273
Also wired an outlet inside right rear outside compartment from inverter breakers. If microwave and toaster are on at same time it will kick out inverter breaker.

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What transfer switch did you add, and did you wire a 15amp breaker on the output?
How did you wire up the connections?
I’m thinking of doing similar since I have a solar setup.

I’m also looking to join my house batteries and trailer battery bank somehow, as I have 2 more marine batteries and 400W of solar on the trailer.

[Robbbyr]

Originally Posted by brtnsnwbrds10

On another note have you heard of the refrigerator beeping and saying lo DC when it’s on battery power?

Check here, there was/is a problem with the way some Senecas were wired causing a power drop to the refrigerator.

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...-dc-33627.html

[RayBo]

Fuel cell is an interesting idea. I'll look into that. Thanks.

[Dananu]

Originally Posted by lonestarrpm

What transfer switch did you add, and did you wire a 15amp breaker on the output?
How did you wire up the connections?
I’m thinking of doing similar since I have a solar setup.

I’m also looking to join my house batteries and trailer battery bank somehow, as I have 2 more marine batteries and 400W of solar on the trailer.

I simply spliced into existing inverter wiring so inverter transfer switch and breakers are active. Just have to remember not to turn on microwave while using toaster or you will be resetting breaker in inverter panel. I also wired an inverter outlet into a basement compartment so it is available outside.

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[Wally n Janet]

Originally Posted by AaronM

It is really close. I got slowed down making some upgrades to the design and waiting on some suppliers that never came through but the pieces are finally being fabricated as we speak.

Is the console for sale now? If so, I'd love to see your design to see if it will work in our 2018 37TS.

[RVermont]

Originally Posted by Wally n Janet

Is the console for sale now? If so, I'd love to see your design to see if it will work in our 2018 37TS.

I think you can find it at build5fab.com. From the looks and the discussions over the last year this is a very solid product.


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[brtnsnwbrds10]

Has anyone had an issue with the XM radio cutting in and out on the Jensen in dash unit when you are playing something on the TV? Seems xm plays fine but when I play a video or tv for the kids it cuts in and out.

[goofy]

Its been a while since this post was updated so I figured with the end of Summer coming would be fun to revive this thread and see what upgrades or modifications everyone has done lately.

[Rustynuts]

So far all my mods have been to the coach so the cab got a little bling this weekend. Added chrome handle covers as mine had been touched up and looked bad. Also got some floor mats as we have the S2RV chassis with the rubber mat, added the carpet mats to catch all the small debris. Also added a bottle holder behind the front TV...nicknamed the medicine cabinet