On our 2018.5 37RB, the front bathroom has one heat vent that makes the bathroom extremely hot when running the gas furnace. I had seen others mention this about the RB model. I started looking into this and I found that the bathroom duct was a straight run from the furnace and was the only duct on the run. I started by removing the panels from under the sink and discovered that the blanked off panel on the base of the cabinet to the right of the sink was wide open with just a few wiring harnesses running through it. I cut the foil duct under the sink and installed a tee fitting, then on the outside wall under the control panel, I bored a 4” hole for a new vent location and connected the duct off the tee to the new vent. I moved the original vent to the outside wall and put a new one in the bathroom that was adjustable. With the new vent in the outside wall turned the right direction, it blows right toward the dinette which works perfect and with the adjustable vent in the bathroom you can adjust to how much heat you want in there.....turned out great and was pretty simple to do. I have read some posts that mention that the K model has the same issue but I have not seen if something can be done on the K model.
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Brian & Jeannie
2018.5 Seneca 37RB with to many mods to list
2015 Jeep JKU Rubicon
On our 2018.5 37RB, the front bathroom has one heat vent that makes the bathroom extremely hot when running the gas furnace. I had seen others mention this about the RB model. I started looking into this and I found that the bathroom duct was a straight run from the furnace and was the only duct on the run. I started by removing the panels from under the sink and discovered that the blanked off panel on the base of the cabinet to the right of the sink was wide open with just a few wiring harnesses running through it. I cut the foil duct under the sink and installed a tee fitting, then on the outside wall under the control panel, I bored a 4” hole for a new vent location and connected the duct off the tee to the new vent. I moved the original vent to the outside wall and put a new one in the bathroom that was adjustable. With the new vent in the outside wall turned the right direction, it blows right toward the dinette which works perfect and with the adjustable vent in the bathroom you can adjust to how much heat you want in there.....turned out great and was pretty simple to do. I have read some posts that mention that the K model has the same issue but I have not seen if something can be done on the K model.
Very nice, Rusty!! Rusty, on another topic...You're a retired carpenter, yes? How would you describe the wood color on the Seneca's cabinets? I am trying to do a small build project but can't seem to get the stain right....thanks in advance!!
You would just have to play with a mixture of a gray and a dark ebony stain. I did read another Seneca owner used these two colors and made streaks of the ebony ten go right over it with the gray/ebony mixture. You just have to start mixing and testing. When I had my shop, I always passed on work that required matching other work as sometimes it can be impossible. I’m really not that picky on my own stuff as long as it’s close.
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Brian & Jeannie
2018.5 Seneca 37RB with to many mods to list
2015 Jeep JKU Rubicon
I have the 37K and yes, I have the exact same problem. The front bathroom gets very hot when using the furnace. With the 37K model, the toilet is on the forward wall and there is no access from the bathroom. The access to the furnace is below the stove in the kitchen.
The photo's I have included show the duct and it looks like it would be fairly easy to put a new vent in the wall adjacent to the furnace access.
My questions are.... did you get the adjustable vent and the tee fitting at just a regular store like Home Depot??
If I take the vent from the bathroom, like what you did, and move it to the wall next to the furnace access, can the Tee fitting be attached to the vent? Then all I would have to do is cut the 4" duct and attach it to the other two ends of the Tee fitting.. Does that make any sense??
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rustynuts
On our 2018.5 37RB, the front bathroom has one heat vent that makes the bathroom extremely hot when running the gas furnace. I had seen others mention this about the RB model. I started looking into this and I found that the bathroom duct was a straight run from the furnace and was the only duct on the run. I started by removing the panels from under the sink and discovered that the blanked off panel on the base of the cabinet to the right of the sink was wide open with just a few wiring harnesses running through it. I cut the foil duct under the sink and installed a tee fitting, then on the outside wall under the control panel, I bored a 4” hole for a new vent location and connected the duct off the tee to the new vent. I moved the original vent to the outside wall and put a new one in the bathroom that was adjustable. With the new vent in the outside wall turned the right direction, it blows right toward the dinette which works perfect and with the adjustable vent in the bathroom you can adjust to how much heat you want in there.....turned out great and was pretty simple to do. I have read some posts that mention that the K model has the same issue but I have not seen if something can be done on the K model.
Looking at your second pic, it looks like the panel on the right under the fridge is wide enough to bore the hole for the new vent grill. If yours is like mine was, there is probably 2-3' of extra duct hose shoved in there. Where the duct connects to the furnace is a twist lock collar so I would first make sure a vent grill would fit in that panel, unlock the duct from the furnace and probably unscrew the vent in the bathroom and disconnect the hose from it and then just completely remove that hose section to open it up and see what you have to work with for room. Then I would run a pretty direct straight line to the bathroom with the tee in that line inserted in line with the new vent and hook up everything and tape up with foil tape...you will probably end up with 2-3’ of hose left over. I would put the adjustable vent in the bathroom and ply with it till it’s comfortable in there with the furnace going and the rest will blow out to the living room. I hope that makes sense to you. Easier to do than explain
Doing work throughout our Seneca I have removed probably 10-12’ of excess heat duct hose that is coiled in and around compartments or spaces which does nothing but restrict air flow and creates a heat loss. I just pulled the vent at the base of our shower to discover that the drain pipe was laid OVER the heat duct hose, crushing it to about 1” in height. I re-routed it about the plumbing and removed 2’ of hose. Doing all of this work has made the heating system much more efficient and the coach heats up a lot faster.
I got the vent off Amazon but most RV supply places have them and the Tee is from Home Depot and they will also have the foil tape. It will also take a 4-4 1/8” hole saw depending on what vent grill you get as there are several adjustable ones. If you have any other questions just ask.
Here is a before and after of cleaning up the ducts and other things under the bed where I also found another half crushed heat duct that look like it had been stepped on. In these pics, I removed the duct to the side of the bed base and routed it down into the wet bay compartment to heat it during winter camping. I used a 4” woodworking duct collector blast gate on the wet bay side of the hose so I could shut it off when not needed.
__________________
Brian & Jeannie
2018.5 Seneca 37RB with to many mods to list
2015 Jeep JKU Rubicon
Looking at your second pic, it looks like the panel on the right under the fridge is wide enough to bore the hole for the new vent grill. If yours is like mine was, there is probably 2-3' of extra duct hose shoved in there. Where the duct connects to the furnace is a twist lock collar so I would first make sure a vent grill would fit in that panel, unlock the duct from the furnace and probably unscrew the vent in the bathroom and disconnect the hose from it and then just completely remove that hose section to open it up and see what you have to work with for room. Then I would run a pretty direct straight line to the bathroom with the tee in that line inserted in line with the new vent and hook up everything and tape up with foil tape...you will probably end up with 2-3’ of hose left over. I would put the adjustable vent in the bathroom and ply with it till it’s comfortable in there with the furnace going and the rest will blow out to the living room. I hope that makes sense to you. Easier to do than explain
Doing work throughout our Seneca I have removed probably 10-12’ of excess heat duct hose that is coiled in and around compartments or spaces which does nothing but restrict air flow and creates a heat loss. I just pulled the vent at the base of our shower to discover that the drain pipe was laid OVER the heat duct hose, crushing it to about 1” in height. I re-routed it about the plumbing and removed 2’ of hose. Doing all of this work has made the heating system much more efficient and the coach heats up a lot faster.
I got the vent off Amazon but most RV supply places have them and the Tee is from Home Depot and they will also have the foil tape. It will also take a 4-4 1/8” hole saw depending on what vent grill you get as there are several adjustable ones. If you have any other questions just ask.
Well, I got everything installed as I mentioned I was going to do above with the new vent and the adjustable vent.
Now I can't get the gas furnace to start. I did run out of propane about 3 weeks ago, so I went and had the tank filled. Valve is on at the tank and the frig is working on gas, but when I turn on the gas furnace the blower starts, but then turns off. Usually the blower starts then shortly afterwards the burner starts.
Of course, I didn't get any info on the furnace when I got the coach. So is there a pilot light that I need to re-start? OR isn't that supposed to be automatic??
Well, I got everything installed as I mentioned I was going to do above with the new vent and the adjustable vent.
Of course, I didn't get any info on the furnace when I got the coach. So is there a pilot light that I need to re-start? OR isn't that supposed to be automatic??
Everything go smoothly? Have a friend with a "K" that needs to do this too. Where are the pics
There is no pilot light, it may just take several cycles of tying to start to bleed the line of air, our fridge takes 3 or 4 cycles after the gas has been off a while.
__________________
Brian & Jeannie
2018.5 Seneca 37RB with to many mods to list
2015 Jeep JKU Rubicon
Everything go smoothly? Have a friend with a "K" that needs to do this too. Where are the pics
There is no pilot light, it may just take several cycles of tying to start to bleed the line of air, our fridge takes 3 or 4 cycles after the gas has been off a while.
Here are a couple pictures of what it looks like. The space is a kinda small so with the Tee in there, I really couldn't remove much of the extra ducting. With the space being small to work in, it wasn't real smooth. LOL. The ducting is a pain to get over the Tee section. But I got it after while.
After about 12-15 cycles still no heat.... Should I just keep trying???
Here are a couple pictures of what it looks like. The space is a kinda small so with the Tee in there, I really couldn't remove much of the extra ducting. With the space being small to work in, it wasn't real smooth. LOL. The ducting is a pain to get over the Tee section. But I got it after while.
After about 12-15 cycles still no heat.... Should I just keep trying???
Looks great, I am lucky as my BIL was a sheet metal worker and has that cool tool to crimp the end of any pipe, made the duct slip right on.
Not sure why it won’t start. I have attached the manual (at least for mine) and the wiring diagram shows a main rocker switch. Maybe it was turned off during your work?
__________________
Brian & Jeannie
2018.5 Seneca 37RB with to many mods to list
2015 Jeep JKU Rubicon
Looks great, I am lucky as my BIL was a sheet metal worker and has that cool tool to crimp the end of any pipe, made the duct slip right on.
Not sure why it won’t start. I have attached the manual (at least for mine) and the wiring diagram shows a main rocker switch. Maybe it was turned off during your work?
Looks like we have the same type of gas furnace. Mine is an Atwood Model No. AFMD35111.
I took the outside cover off and there was an off/reset switch there. It was in the reset position. When I turned it off, the blower turned off. After I put it back into the rest position, I turned on the furnace. Like before, the blower turned on. But this time I could hear the burner start for a few seconds. Then it would shut off. It continued to do this cycle while the blower remained on. It would never stay lit.
I did seen a red light flash. It flashed once per 3 sec. which indicates airflow problem/limit switch.
Does the air flow mean air coming into the unit? Cause I don't see that being a problem. If not, then do you know where the limit switch is located? I see it on the wiring diagram, but I don't understand where it would be on the actual unit.
Here's a picture of what my unit looks like from outside....
When the blower is running can you feel it coming out all the vents like normal?
Yes, there is air coming out of the vents inside. When the burner starts for that few seconds, I can feel a little heat coming out of the exhaust vent outside too.
Ah ok... That looks like its easy to get to. Hopefully it just needs to be cleaned. I'll check it in the morning.. Thanks!!
Well, the switch was clean, so I went ahead an ordered another off Amazon. Hopefully that is the issue. I'll post after I get it installed.. won't be till next week.
Well, the switch was clean, so I went ahead an ordered another off Amazon. Hopefully that is the issue. I'll post after I get it installed.. won't be till next week.
Well...... I got the switch installed. Now the blower won't even turn on. The switch does look slightly different, but everything online that I researched shows that this is the correct switch.
I did a continuity check on both old and new switches. I get the same results... So they both seem to work...
IS there another test I should do? Or could there be another problem?
Check out this web site. This mobile repair fellow is very methodical in his diagnosis', and has done some great videos. Scroll through them, and see if there's one that helps.
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