Seneca Rear Slide Issues - Page 2

Rustynuts · 07-10-2019, 03:57 PM

One thing that I noticed on ours was I would always check the caulking with the slides in. The other day I checked while my wife was cleaning inside with the slides out and discovered a wide open gap in the main slide so the trim is flexing enough to open it up. I suggest checking this and I will re-caulk with the slide out.

Clayduster71 · 07-15-2019, 03:31 AM

What happens is the picture frame molding allows water to collect. It will eventually make its way through the waterproof membrane and into your floor. Once it's in there, there is little way for it to escape and dry out. Don't think just because you have not seen any water doesn't mean it's not there. Actually you are better off if you DO see water inside, that means it's escaping to some degree. We never saw water inside.

This is FLATLY a very poor design all the way around from Jayco. I still cannot believe the whole thing rest on 3/16 lauan with styrofoam underneath While you are bouncing down the road the rollers of the slide are constantly mashing into the floor with nothing to support them. One roller did bear on the middle aluminum cross member. It had totally collapsed at the join with the exterior from the pounding. I should have taken a photo of it.

Clayduster71 · 07-15-2019, 03:51 AM

Having posted the previous comment.....

If I were the owner of a newer Seneca, I would be proactive by taking a razor and slicing a small couple inch slit in the waterproof membrane at the corner by the refrigerator. Right on the lower crease on the lower front corner. This way if water is getting into there, it will have a way to get out and you will be aware of an exterior leak issue. Again, we never saw water by the slide inside on ours.

This corner would be wrapped with carpet on the front right where it meets the vertical wood trim molding. You'll have to cut the underside where the membrane meets the carpet.

You can see from the photo that we rolled the membrane down when we were doing the tear out. It wraps up on top. This membrane traps the water in the floor. Slicing a slot in it will not hurt anything being that it on the inside and not exposed to the elements.

Clayduster71 · 07-15-2019, 04:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rustynuts

One thing that I noticed on ours was I would always check the caulking with the slides in. The other day I checked while my wife was cleaning inside with the slides out and discovered a wide open gap in the main slide so the trim is flexing enough to open it up. I suggest checking this and I will re-caulk with the slide out.

Rustynuts,

I would remove the molding all together. I would unscrew all the screws from the underside and remove the two diagonal trim pieces on the corners. When you take it off, you'll see the only waterproofing they put on it is butyl tape on the bottom. This doesn't do a darn thing to waterproof this area, actually it's the reason water is sitting there to begin with against the black membrane on the floor. If the tape wasn't there, the water would just fall right out the bottom.

Structurally, there is nothing to keep the trim compressed to the side of the wall. I believe you would be better off running a couple beads of 100% silicon on the wall itself behind the molding. This will make it watertight and give structural strength to the molding. Once it cures though, you'll never getting the molding off again. Then come back over the top edge when its back on with a sealant.

I'm not replacing the butyl tape on the bottom of mine when we reassemble it.

groutman · 07-15-2019, 03:50 PM

my picture frame molding looked ok but i ran a bead of caulking on it anyway

Stargazerandu · 07-15-2019, 09:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rustynuts

One thing that I noticed on ours was I would always check the caulking with the slides in. The other day I checked while my wife was cleaning inside with the slides out and discovered a wide open gap in the main slide so the trim is flexing enough to open it up. I suggest checking this and I will re-caulk with the slide out.

Rusty, the slide, living room slide trim sits below the floor. I am not sure how water can work its way to the floor with the picture frame trim being below the floor. Am I missing something?

Clayduster71 · 07-16-2019, 05:32 PM

The trim screws up on the underside and has a waterproof seal under it at this lower connection (not between it and the figerglass exterior). The water comes in from the top if the pictureframe trim which is about 6 inches tall and cannot run out because of the seal. Because of the height of the trim the water can run up between the floor and the fiberglass exterior. It finds a hole in the black membrane and saturates the floor. Because of the membrane, it cant dry out.

Clayduster71 · 07-16-2019, 05:42 PM

We're putting it all togther now. Slide goes back in the wall tomorrow. We have 1.5" x 1.5" square tubing to catch the load (instead of styrofoam) we also increased to 5 rollers instead of 3. We sheeted 3/16 aluminum on the bottom. We're putting new 3/16 lauan on the top. We received in completely new schwintech gear and track assembles today. This is the best I can do it.

Clayduster71 · 07-16-2019, 06:52 PM

Ready to go

smt29camper · 07-16-2019, 07:14 PM

Thought I would chime in on this after reading what the thread was based on. We are now at the famed Entegra/Jayco Motorized Service center because of our rear slide. Timing problem when bought in June 2018, rear bottom out of alignment Nov 2018 (caused todays appointment), both bottoms out by 2" caused replacement and realignment in Yuma. Now we are here and this morning told they believe the floor under the sliding door between the fridge and the rear slide out has water damage and needs to come out. A 3 to 5 week tear and replace. I will be asking them to make sure the slide out floor is checked out when they remove to replace main floor.
Thank you for the heads up.

SloPoke · 07-18-2019, 01:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clayduster71

We're putting it all togther now. Slide goes back in the wall tomorrow. We have 1.5" x 1.5" square tubing to catch the load (instead of styrofoam) we also increased to 5 rollers instead of 3. We sheeted 3/16 aluminum on the bottom. We're putting new 3/16 lauan on the top. We received in completely new schwintech gear and track assembles today. This is the best I can do it.

My complements! Very nice design and fabrication! This is a very large project.

Oma/opa · 07-24-2019, 02:29 PM

I noticed that I have separation around the picture frame and apparently the previous owner tried to do a fix but it has reoccured. Today I started removing the existing caulk(a bad job was done by the PO) and quickly realized it was going to take forever trying to be extra careful and not harm the paint. I came up with a solution that seems to work quite well and is fast compared to the razor blade.
Go to your nearest big box store and get some Formica samples and some Goo Gone Pro-Power. At home, sand one edge of the Formica to a knife edge and use it to remove the existing caulking. It gets 95% of the caulk off without damaging the paint. Next put some Goo Gone on a rag and wipe off the remaining caulk, might take a couple of times, then wash with water and you are ready to recaulk
As a note, the Goo Gone Pro-Power will soften silicon caulk.
Hope this helps someone.

Clayduster71 · 08-12-2019, 04:29 AM

Slide works flawlessly now. Other areas of the slide may leak, but the picture frame on this one never will again I can assure you.

Alan

RVermont · 08-12-2019, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Clayduster71

Slide works flawlessly now. Other areas of the slide may leak, but the picture frame on this one never will again I can assure you.

Alan

I am sure that that slide will outlast us all. Too bad you had to go through all that effort. It must be nice to be able to use it again.

Clayduster71 · 08-12-2019, 06:32 PM

It should never of had an issue to begin with. Poor engineering.

ripples2ya · 09-06-2019, 12:23 PM

Thank you Camper Bob for the reply. I guess the RV repair technician was correct when he said the rear slide needed to be removed and reinforced.

groutman · 10-28-2019, 02:59 PM

well after reading this post i finally ripped my picture frame molding off after a weekend of heavy rain yep sure enough it was leaking. so what should i glue/caulk it back on with?https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/a...1&d=1572296650

ripples2ya · 10-29-2019, 09:33 AM

Was very satisfied with the reinforcement of the rear slide on my 2016 Seneca by Blue Moon RV repair in Coppel Texas. They removed slide, replaced aluminum runners above the slide rollers with thicker runs of aluminum and resealed everything. Luckily I had no rot or water damage. I thought $3100 was a fair price for all they did.

Stargazerandu · 10-31-2019, 05:27 PM

Good information!! Thank you!!

Joe1mc · 01-04-2020, 11:27 AM

Thank you, after taking a close look at my 2016 FS I too have a soft area at the very back of the slide just aft of the roller plastic plate: guide. I have sealed around every seam imaginable. The only seam I cant reach is the upper inside seam on the slide covered by the slide awning. Did any of you that had water intrusion or damage isolate the specific Area it might have migrated from? Hope I caught this in nick of time. I’m definitely going to be keeping an eye on this area. I saw a product on line that you can inject into the bad areas, that would turn the bridle wood hard again. Hope I don’t have to resort to pulling the slide and doing a major repair like Clayduster71.

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