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Old 06-18-2018, 09:01 PM   #1
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Seneca water heater

I have a 2017 37rb with the Girard water heater still in it. My question is how do you get to the back side of the water heater. Do you pull it out for access.
I can't see any access panels under or behind it.

Thanks
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Old 06-19-2018, 05:41 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by whporwil View Post
I have a 2017 37rb with the Girard water heater still in it. My question is how do you get to the back side of the water heater. Do you pull it out for access.
I can't see any access panels under or behind it.

Thanks
Yes, you pull it out from the outside after removing the perimeter flange screws. You may have to dislodge the propane hose from the foam sealant in the rear of the compartment (from underneath the rig) where the propane line enters that compartment so you have slack in the line to pull the heater out. My water lines had enough built-in slack to pull the heater out enough to disconnect them.

You may also have to slip a plastic putty knife under the flange to help break the seal of the butyl tape caulk. Be careful not to mess up your paint!

Just curious - Why are you pulling the Girard?
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Old 06-19-2018, 10:28 AM   #3
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I'm really trying to understand how things work. My problem is private campgrounds which most are lack the water pressure to maintain hot water. Most pressure switches on wells come on at 40 psi and off at 60 psi. In the morning when several people are showering at the same time my heater cuts on and off as the pressure falls below the required 45 psi. I now use my water pump and fresh water tank to shower, it's just a pain to have to go outside to make the change.
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Old 06-19-2018, 11:37 AM   #4
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I'm really trying to understand how things work. My problem is private campgrounds which most are lack the water pressure to maintain hot water. Most pressure switches on wells come on at 40 psi and off at 60 psi. In the morning when several people are showering at the same time my heater cuts on and off as the pressure falls below the required 45 psi. I now use my water pump and fresh water tank to shower, it's just a pain to have to go outside to make the change.
I had that same issue with my first-generation Girard, as well as other issues where it just would not stay lit. My dealer tried several times to repair/adjust it to no avail. It got to the point I just replaced it myself with a 10-gallon Atwood XT tank unit. Very happy with my hot water now.

You (should) have a later generation Girard than I did, but I know they are still very "sensitive" about water flow. That is what is so nice about a tank unit, you can trickle the flow and not get cold spikes because the burner shut down to prevent scalding. I hear the Truma units are better in that respect, especially if it is upgraded to the "Comfort" model. But neither the Truma nor the Girard allow one to heat water with electricity, but my Atwood does!

I see the 2019 Senecas have an Atwood gas/electric like mine (now). Not sure if they went back due to complaints or cost.
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Old 10-29-2018, 04:46 PM   #5
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Filter Screen

Question for those of you that have pulled the Girards, did you notice a rear mounted filter screen (on the cold water inlet) on the 1st generation model? I called Girard today they said some did (as per the manual) and other did not.

The manual makes reference to an annual cleaning and I'm wondering if that is contributing to my intermittent issues. Seems ludicrous to have to pull it out to clean a filter, but I know we see everything in these RVs.

Thank you!
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Old 10-30-2018, 09:13 AM   #6
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Also for those who have pulled their Girards out .... how are the 12V electric supply wires routed to the unit? Do they have an in-line fuse? Are they physcially unprotected from the rest of the storage bay behind it?
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Old 10-30-2018, 09:23 AM   #7
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Also for those who have pulled their Girards out .... how are the 12V electric supply wires routed to the unit? Do they have an in-line fuse? Are they physcially unprotected from the rest of the storage bay behind it?
I replaced my Girard as you likely have read, the wiring came down through the floor (under my wardrobe cabinet) into the heater compartment and connected to the heater. There was enough slack in the wiring to allow for removal from the unit. It was just a taped-up harness including power, ground, and control leads. But it was not in a wire loom or conduit on mine. It was fused at the main panel inside the power center.
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Old 10-30-2018, 09:24 AM   #8
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I replaced my Girard as you likely have read, the wiring came down through the floor (under my wardrobe cabinet) into the heater compartment and connected to the heater. There was enough slack in the wiring to allow for removal from the unit. It was just a taped-up harness including power, ground, and control leads. But it was not in a wire loom or conduit on mine. It was fused at the main panel inside the power center.


What about the water line?
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Old 10-30-2018, 09:36 AM   #9
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What about the water line?
The rigid PEX lines run from approximately the middle of the coach towards the heater. There was enough slack in them to pull it out enough to unscrew the fittings when the heater is pulled out. When reinstalling the heater the lines will just "push back" into the transverse section of that water heater compartment.

To adapt to the Atwood tank-style heater I did have to change the arrangement of the lines somewhat with my PEX crimping tools, but they still just push in and lay on top of the transverse compartment floor.
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Old 10-30-2018, 09:45 AM   #10
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The rigid PEX lines run from approximately the middle of the coach towards the heater. There was enough slack in them to pull it out enough to unscrew the fittings when the heater is pulled out. When reinstalling the heater the lines will just "push back" into the transverse section of that water heater compartment.



To adapt to the Atwood tank-style heater I did have to change the arrangement of the lines somewhat with my PEX crimping tools, but they still just push in and lay on top of the transverse compartment floor.


Many thanks again!
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