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Old 09-08-2018, 05:51 PM   #21
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Thanks again...means a lot!
Anytime! Good luck and fire away with questions anytime
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Old 09-08-2018, 06:12 PM   #22
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Geez Mustang...now you just scared me away from doing this...I wouldn't have a frickin clue how to wire all that! I was hoping to just hook up some batteries.....and then I guess the suitcase solar with alligator clips to battery terminals....hoped an inverter went from positive and negative battery terminals to a 110 style plug in damn....I want simple haha
Sorry about that... I did not mean to scare you... it may look scary but it really is not. Start simple and take it from there. Add this, change that... it all becomes easy as you move along.

What you see on that board is slowly changing as I use more current technology parts.. I am always making changes... basically it is
12VDC source ….. Fuse ….. (Switch)...… Load...…. Ground

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Old 09-09-2018, 06:30 AM   #23
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Rueckert,
Look at that control panel from this perspective. Each on of those objects on the board is an individual circuit.
- SOLAR panel input
- SOLAR input panel fuse
- MPPT Input from SOLAR panel
- MPPT SOLAR charge controller output
- MPPT SOLAR charge controller output fuse
- Trailer 30 amp fuse circuit
- Inverter 300 amp fuse circuit
- Truck 12VDC Charging output SHUNT Resistor (measures AMPS from truck)
- TT Battery 500Amp SHUNT Resistor (total battery load measurement)


If you ever decide to go from portable SOLAR to a permanent SOLAR setup. You may add each of the above (most of them anyway) ONE CIRCUIT AT A TIME. That is the key, do not look at the big picture, look at it in small pieces of the big picture.

Makes electronics, like any other project, look a lot easier to understand.
Take your hand and block out parts of the picture and you will see they are all individual circuits that can be done at your own pace.

Don

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Old 09-09-2018, 06:58 AM   #24
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Those pictures should be framed as artwork....I also ran heavy gauge wire from my batteries to the inverter. Check out welder power/lead wires, they are super flexible and easier to run than thick standard wire. A bit pricier, but don’t skimp on the important stuff
Wow! That is a thing of beauty! Too bad RV Manufacturers don't follow the same quality!
Good job and THANKS for sharing
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Old 09-09-2018, 07:07 AM   #25
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Okay..........we will be getting a Class C here in a year or so and I love the idea of being able to VERY simply being able to stop wherever I want to and enjoy life. TT's are out of the question because of physical problems and obviously TT's offer more room (for the most part) for addition of a nice size battery bank. Class C's not so much.

Electric scares the heck out of me. Anything more than plugging a appliance in or flipping a switch is beyond my skill set

Are there solar wizards who do proven designed solar systems for us who are less than qualified or confident? I am VERY comfortable with paying a qualified installer for a good efficient install!
Thanks!
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Old 09-09-2018, 07:39 AM   #26
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Wind Power For RV's?

Okay, here we go

There's a lot smarter people here than me (Thank Heaven)
I had a idea yesterday ref. wind power for RV's
What if a downsized anemometer was placed on the roof of a RV to produce electric for the battery bank. RV's are running down the road at 60-70mph which would surely produce enough rotation of a cupped anemometer to produce a good current?

I ran this past my alternative energy crazy engineer Son yesterday and he was 'kinda' in agreement. Of course he is energy crazy and can't see driving a RV that might only get 8-15mpg. He has owned two hybrid Honda's and currently drives a Chevy Volt
He was more interested in the possibility of designing a hybrid Class B or small Class C that could be charged at the electric pedestal at a camp ground
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Old 09-09-2018, 07:40 AM   #27
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…..Electric scares the heck out of me. Anything more than plugging a appliance in or flipping a switch is beyond my skill set

Are there solar wizards who do proven designed solar systems for us less than qualified or confident? I am VERY comfortable with paying a qualified installer for a good efficient install!
Thanks!
Installing SOLAR is really not hard at all. Even for the non-electrical wizards. Just follow the process step-by-step.

The VERY LAST PLACE you want to have install your SOLAR is an RV dealership. They have NO CLUE, but will tell you otherwise.

I know that I will get a lot of flack for the following thoughts, but I was an electrician back in the 70's.

Electricians, would be the most qualified to do the "ELECTRICAL" portion of the install, but they do not specialize in 12VDC systems. They have no clue as to mounting the panels on an RV, shading from RV components on the roof. They more than likely could not tell you the difference between a PWM vs MPPT SOLAR charge controllers and would probably want to connect the panels in "SERIES" to get the most voltage, unaware that they need to be wired in "PARALLEL" to lessen the impact of shading.

Can you do any of the install yourself, leaving the ELECTRICAL portion to a qualified SOLAR certified electrician?


Some of the members have had work done out west where there are a few VERY QUALIFIED installers, that do it for a living. Make a trip out of it!!!!

OK members let's here where you had your SOLAR installed and $$$

Don
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Old 09-09-2018, 07:42 AM   #28
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Okay, here we go

There's a lot smarter people here than me (Thank Heaven)
I had a idea yesterday ref. wind power for RV's
What if a downsized anemometer was placed on the roof of a RV to produce electric for the battery bank. RV's are running down the road at 60-70mph which would surely produce enough rotation of a cupped anemometer to produce a good current?

I ran this past my alternative energy crazy engineer Son yesterday and he was 'kinda' in agreement. Of course he is energy crazy and can't see driving a RV that might only get 8-15mpg. He has owned two hybrid Honda's and currently drives a Chevy Volt
He was more interested in the possibility of designing a hybrid Class B or small Class C that could be charged at the electric pedestal at a camp ground
RESISTANCE.... Gas mileage loss!!! Speed!!!, these units are not designed to maintain a wind speed of 60 mph.

Most RV parks have trees, 0 wind

If per chance there was enough wind the noise/vibration from them would aggravate you and fellow RVers


Don

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Old 09-09-2018, 07:56 AM   #29
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Ok Don (and others)....here is what I am thinking now. If I go from my roof "solar ready" (if good cables down to battery compartment) I would hook up 2 100 watt flexable and tape thenm down (however affixed correctly)...I would run those wires into my compartment next to battery tray...first thing to a big on/off switch...then to solar controller? (hopefully one I can monitor from my phone for voltage)...output of controller to battery bank - I am thinking of replacing my house battery with 2 6 volts (T105s) and in compartment with controller adding 4 more...giving me 675 amp hours (if drwn down only 20% a night I get 135 amp hours a night)...from the battery bank I would run the input to a 3000 sine wave inverter. All of this mounted on a board as you did.

My goal is to then be able to plug in my RV's shore power cord (with the house plug adaptor) into the inverter giving me 110 in unit...I would keep refridge and water heater on propane (have extended stay propane additional tank ability)...this way I get 110 outlets live..can run microwave a bit if wanted, my tvs, a coffee maker...and most importantly the tank heaters and water tank line wrap....nowhere do I see any reference to how much power these draw. Only thing I see is they come on at 40 degrees...I could be hunting in weather that is teen overnight and high of maybe 30 and I want to be able to do 10 days...I do have a generator on my 26y but can't run it all night to keep tanks warmed up
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Old 09-09-2018, 08:07 AM   #30
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I think I would be right about $2500...(6 batteries at 158) panels and controller ($1100), and inverter ($400)...I would likely have to reinforce with steel channel under plastic bin....and cut some vent holes...mount 3/4" plywood base (so I could pull out and water monthly) and 1/2 plywood board backing. You had fuses? or other things? what am I missing?
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Old 09-09-2018, 08:08 AM   #31
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seems 200 watts of roof panels would provide enough power to recharge my taking up to 150 amp hours out...?
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Old 09-09-2018, 08:21 AM   #32
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Something to think about
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Old 09-09-2018, 08:43 AM   #33
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Installing SOLAR is really not hard at all. Even for the non-electrical wizards. Just follow the process step-by-step.

The VERY LAST PLACE you want to have install your SOLAR is an RV dealership. They have NO CLUE, but will tell you otherwise.

I know that I will get a lot of flack for the following thoughts, but I was an electrician back in the 70's.

Electricians, would be the most qualified to do the "ELECTRICAL" portion of the install, but they do not specialize in 12VDC systems. They have no clue as to mounting the panels on an RV, shading from RV components on the roof. They more than likely could not tell you the difference between a PWM vs MPPT SOLAR charge controllers and would probably want to connect the panels in "SERIES" to get the most voltage, unaware that they need to be wired in "PARALLEL" to lessen the impact of shading.

Can you do any of the install yourself, leaving the ELECTRICAL portion to a qualified SOLAR certified electrician?


Some of the members have had work done out west where there are a few VERY QUALIFIED installers, that do it for a living. Make a trip out of it!!!!

OK members let's here where you had your SOLAR installed and $$$

Don
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Thanks for the great reply Don.
I'm not allowed on ladders due to med. issues but anything on solid ground would be "do-able" if I knew what I was doing and felt confident enough to try it. That's the whole issue

I agree with you 100% about not letting a RV Dealership setting up my solar system. I want somebody who has done many and at several capabilities. I wouldn't want a small system but neither do I need the largest system. I'm thinking 3 160's on the roof and a briefcase panel as a back-up.
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Old 09-09-2018, 08:56 AM   #34
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I guess I was thinking more ease of install on panels with less drilling etc for the thin flex ones and figured a quality company like Go Power etc would be a quality and reliable product...overall, the simpleest and cheapest option still seems something like the zamp 200 watt suitcase (or renology) as charger....does the rest of my thinking make sense for running power inside and tank heaters? am I overkill /underkill anywhere?
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Old 09-09-2018, 09:07 AM   #35
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RESISTANCE.... Gas mileage loss!!! Speed!!!, these units are not designed to maintain a wind speed of 60 mph.

Most RV parks have trees, 0 wind

If per chance there was enough wind the noise/vibration from them would aggravate you and fellow RVers


Don

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Like I said Don.......Thank Heaven there are much smarter folks here than me.

All good points. The only time I would want it to turn would be while traveling. But I do clearly see what you are saying

Just had the idea "pop" into my head

To quote Tommy Lee Jones in "No Country For Old Men"
"My Mind Wanders"
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Old 09-09-2018, 09:27 AM   #36
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If you are going to be installing about 200 watts on the roof, the top "Prewire" cables will do just fine. They should exit some where near the battery box and all the installer has to do is install the cut-off switch between the panels and the SOLAR charge controller and one between the SOLAR charge controller and the batteries. A no brainer.

Personally, I would go with the roof mount as moving the portable SOLAR panels can get old and are subject to the "5 Finger Discount" plan.

As for mounting brackets, there are some members that have done this on their Class "C". I am sure that they will let you know their thoughts.

If you have not already read some of the topics in the "RVing with SOLAR" Social Group, now would be a good time to get your glasses, relax in a recliner, pop the top of a beer (it is after 12PM Atlantic Time) and enjoy some of the posts.

Don

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Old 09-09-2018, 09:40 AM   #37
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Thanks Don...waiting to pop a beer for another hour for kick off.

Still want your feedback on my plugging the RV shore cable into my inverter and battery bank to power the tank heaters...how much to they draw? my furnace would still run on 12 volt right?

would 200 watts of panels recharge the drawdown each night?

you also put in a fuse? fuses?

I have been reading he RV solar group posts thanks! Larry
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Old 09-09-2018, 10:24 AM   #38
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Thanks Don...waiting to pop a beer for another hour for kick off.

Still want your feedback on my plugging the RV shore cable into my inverter and battery bank to power the tank heaters...how much to they draw? my furnace would still run on 12 volt right?

Not sure how much the resistance cables draw, but RESISTANCE is a batteries worst enemy. To operate them, you would need a generator or a massive battery bank.

Do you have a WINTERIZATION package? Do you have heating ducts in the floor? With the heating ducts in the floor, should keep the tanks from freezing. Now, I am thinking about adding a remote temperature sensor to each of the tanks under the floor. Need to put that on my project list.

would 200 watts of panels recharge the drawdown each night?

This is a difficult question to answer with all the variables. The numbers that we present here are for the months of June, July and August with 100% sunshine. Throw in a cloudy day or 2 or 3 and your numbers become a thing of the past. In the FALL, WINTER and SPRING the amount of available SUN power drops off drastically (angle of the sun, hours of daily sunlight). When planning, you need to include enough power for 3 days of no sun, where the SOLAR output will be minimal.

you also put in a fuse? fuses?
Old technology (mine was from 6 years ago)! Current technology, you would now use MANUAL circuit breakers, take the place of a fuse and a switch at a lower cost (see below). You need to have a fuse between the SOLAR panels and the controller, should any of them go south. Also, when you need to shut down your SOLAR system, the SOLAR panels need to be disconnected before disconnecting your SOLAR charge controller. When turning up the SOLAR system you need to turn on the SOLAR charge controller then the SOLAR panels. Not following this process CAN cause the microcontroller in the SOLAR charge controller to die, as it gets its power from the batteries.

I have been reading he RV solar group posts thanks!

There will be a quiz at the end of the day, study hard!
Larry
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Old 09-09-2018, 11:02 AM   #39
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I have a Greyhawk 26 y...yes it has floor ducts for heat, but not a "basement" for tanks etc...the tanks and water lines are visible under the vehicle, but Jayco says with the tank heaters on etc good to like 10 below zero which seems extreme...i just want to be able to have running water and not have tanks freeze...so I think heaters/tape on, or I skirt around them and throw in a heat source...rather not if I can run my heaters...the resitance would be the 20 foot of cord on the rv i guess
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Old 09-09-2018, 11:44 AM   #40
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Another question...if I do put in the 6 6volt batteries...2 as house battery, and a pair of doubled ups....if you are driving down the road and running engine, will the alternator charge them all? and how fast will running generator charge up the bank? 675 amp hours - 6 Trojan 105s
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