Solar system prewire on 2018 Jayco Greyhawk

[Bobalu]

Does anyone know what solar prewire actually means. Our 2018 Jayco Greyhawk MPV has solar connections on the roof and two wires in a box labeled solar connections found in the back of the outside storage compartment on drivers side near the fresh water inlet. Wonder what must be done to hook up solar panels?

[ARoamer]

Wired for solar generally means the wires and connections are there. But, where they are and how they are connected can vary widely even on similar rv's.

IF you want to go down this solar rabbit hole, plenty to read and research on here and online.
RVing with SOLAR-

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/g...ith+solar.html

[Stavman]

I nixxed the solar ready and did my own portable solar system

In AZ we hide from the sun, so roof solar isn't optimal. I have two 100w panels I'll use as needed.
One for the batter, and can simultaneously charge one portable power station, and another just for the power stations

Works well for me

[pconroy]

Originally Posted by Bobalu

Wonder what must be done to hook up solar panels?

Originally Posted by ARoamer

Wired for solar generally means the wires and connections are there.

Agreed - usually means the wires are there. But they may be too small/thin for your use, depending on how much amperage you want to pull from the panels.


Left to do?
- find the wires, check the gauge
- decide how much wattage you want to put up
- buy a solar charge controller
- buy solar panel(s)
- wire panels to SCC
- wire SCC to battery


Bob's your uncle.

[Bobby B]

2018 29MV
200 watts of solar using the solar prep package, with a charge controller in the compartment

[thepaulsri]

Originally Posted by pconroy

Agreed - usually means the wires are there. But they may be too small/thin for your use, depending on how much amperage you want to pull from the panels.


Left to do?
- find the wires, check the gauge
- decide how much wattage you want to put up
- buy a solar charge controller
- buy solar panel(s)
- wire panels to SCC
- wire SCC to battery


Bob's your uncle.

The "Left to do" list is very helpful. I was not sure if I needed the charge controller.

[pconroy]

Originally Posted by thepaulsri

The "Left to do" list is very helpful. I was not sure if I needed the charge controller.

To be clear I don't know if you need to buy one or if your rig came with one.


You do need one

[rodpod]

Originally Posted by Bobby B

2018 29MV
200 watts of solar using the solar prep package, with a charge controller in the compartment

Bobby i have the same RV as you and I like the looks of your installation. Was it a Kit? can it be connected using the existing inverter/converter. It looks like you wired it using the roof connections already on the RV? I see you mounted behind the rear A/Ci unit. Any issue with drilling into the roof? sorry for all the questions but it looks like you did exactly what i want for my 29MV.

[pconroy]

Originally Posted by rodpod

Bobby i have the same RV as you and I like the looks of your installation. Was it a Kit? can it be connected using the existing inverter/converter. It looks like you wired it using the roof connections already on the RV? I see you mounted behind the rear A/Ci unit. Any issue with drilling into the roof? sorry for all the questions but it looks like you did exactly what i want for my 29MV.

I'm not Bobby and I may not be helping... But this is the internet after all.

"Connected to existing inverter/converter" - Not sure what you're asking, but I think the direct answer is "sure!". Remember, the solar panels connect to the Charge Controller (SCC) and the SCC connects to the house battery. Nothing on my unit had to change in the inverter or converter. Those remained as is.

"drilling" - I'm one of the rare few that refused to put new holes in my roof. In my case, 3' of aluminum angle run along the side of each panel. So 6' total per panel. That angle has a complete strip of 3M VHB tape. So 6' of VHB tape per panel. Angle is stuck to roof and then panel is bolted to angle. Almost three years and they're still stuck up there solid. I did add a nylon safety strap to each panel; if the VHB lifts the strap should keep the panels from flying off too far.


I'm going to guess that Bobby bought his Rich Solar SCC and installed it himself. Like I did with my EPEver MPPT controller.

[rodpod]

Originally Posted by pconroy

I'm not Bobby and I may not be helping... But this is the internet after all.

"Connected to existing inverter/converter" - Not sure what you're asking, but I think the direct answer is "sure!". Remember, the solar panels connect to the Charge Controller (SCC) and the SCC connects to the house battery. Nothing on my unit had to change in the inverter or converter. Those remained as is.

"drilling" - I'm one of the rare few that refused to put new holes in my roof. In my case, 3' of aluminum angle run along the side of each panel. So 6' total per panel. That angle has a complete strip of 3M VHB tape. So 6' of VHB tape per panel. Angle is stuck to roof and then panel is bolted to angle. Almost three years and they're still stuck up there solid. I did add a nylon safety strap to each panel; if the VHB lifts the strap should keep the panels from flying off too far.


I'm going to guess that Bobby bought his Rich Solar SCC and installed it himself. Like I did with my EPEver MPPT controller.

Thanks, I'll take the help from anyone who offers. I like the idea of not drilling into my roof. that's the reason i didn't put one up there before now.

[rodpod]

my inverter/converter currently charges the batteries off the shore power when connected and by the rv charging from the alternator while running. my the solar system be isolated for these other systems to avoid over charging?

[pconroy]

Originally Posted by rodpod

[should] my the solar system be isolated for these other systems to avoid over charging?

Mine is not. My SCC is smart enough to avoid overcharging, as is my converter. The alternator - I don't know.


So I figure, when I'm driving, in the sun, only two of the three are feeding the house battery, and one of those two is smart enough. Likewise, when I'm plugged in - only 2 of the 3 are feeding the battery and both are smart enough.


Nope, I took some nice thick wire from the Battery Output of my SCC and ran it directly to the battery.


I forgot if we asked - are you switching over to Lithiums or going to stay with SLA batteries?

[Jab55]

I went through this exact process when I purchased my 2019 Greyhawk. The Solar prewire is wiring from a connector box on the roof to outside compartment by my entry door...which is also under the refrigerator area. I installed 2 - 200 watt panels on the roof in series...and plugged them into solar prewire box. The other end of the wires were running through the space below the refrigerator and then going down into the outside compartment. I just pulled them back up under the fridge and mounted my charge controller in that area. I ran new wiring from that location to the new batteries that I installed. It was not a complicated process. I ended up putting 2 large batteries in one of the outside compartments that I re-supported to hold the weight. I am very happy with the finished product...performance is great...I also upgraded my invertor so I can run the microwave, toaster, and coffee pot without running the genny.

[bluztoo]

Same deal. Pre-wired from the roof to the storage bay in the front on the right side. I put my controller there as it is close to my batteries. Also, I’m starting with a couple of portable panels and put a plug-in there. But I’ll put a couple on the roof. Put the lithium batteries in this week.

[lpleiman]

On my 2018 Jayco Alante "solar prewire" means a solar jack on the roof cabled to a solar jack in the house battery compartment. I upgrade my house batteries to a pair of Trojan Deep Cycle batteries and added this Renogy Kit. Also, need solar wiring tools from Amazon.

https://www.renogy.com/solar-kits/rv...it+Type=RV+Kit

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[P.Floyd]

If you want some AC from your batteries you'll need an inverter. Further, if you want it to be automatic when your AC shore power fails you also need a transfer switch. Lots of info available re amp hours, current draw, wire sizes etc...