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05-06-2021, 10:42 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Denver
Posts: 4,195
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Speaking of wheel covers...
I popped off the front and rears to clean up the wheels. These are the aluminum covers on our '16 GreyHawk.
Back ones popped back ON just fine and dandy.
But the front ones, the front ones
are killing me!!!
I can't get them back on!
I've kicked and smacked w/ rubber mallets.
Double kicked.
I've cursed and yelled.
The front ones are kickin' my butt-insky!
Anyone have a suggestion?
Clearly they went back on - Discount Tire did it last year. Should I just swallow my pride, and head back to Discount Tire with a $20???
__________________
2016 Greyhawk 31FK
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05-06-2021, 10:58 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Chino
Posts: 314
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Are they not locking or when you hit one side, the opposite side pop out?
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05-07-2021, 05:21 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Sandy
Posts: 277
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From time to time mine are difficult to get on.
I found that tapping sequentially around the rim to get them started and then rap with the hubcap remover [ https://amzn.to/3tpLhQv] will work.
Sometimes it takes a couple of tries....and a few choice words!
__________________
Yeti: 2000 Greyhawk 26Y, 2019 Ford E-450
Make it a great day
Don
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05-07-2021, 06:50 AM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Elgin
Posts: 82
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Here is my two cents from a previous hubcap experience. Had a pair of wheel simulators on a MH that would not go onto the front wheels to save my life. They seemed like they were warped…..after I chanted “serenity now” I turned them over an found the “slightest, smallest, tiniest “ notch. I was skeptical that it would work but lined that notch up with the valve stem and boom, they popped right on.
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05-07-2021, 08:49 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Denver
Posts: 4,195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jyh818
Are they not locking or when you hit one side, the opposite side pop out?
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yes.
__________________
2016 Greyhawk 31FK
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05-07-2021, 08:49 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Denver
Posts: 4,195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don_kleinschnitz
From time to time mine are difficult to get on.
I found that tapping sequentially around the rim to get them started and then rap with the hubcap remover [ https://amzn.to/3tpLhQv] will work.
Sometimes it takes a couple of tries....and a few choice words!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGPAPA1970
Here is my two cents from a previous hubcap experience. Had a pair of wheel simulators on a MH that would not go onto the front wheels to save my life. They seemed like they were warped…..after I chanted “serenity now” I turned them over an found the “slightest, smallest, tiniest “ notch. I was skeptical that it would work but lined that notch up with the valve stem and boom, they popped right on.
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Thank you! I'll give that a shot!
__________________
2016 Greyhawk 31FK
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05-07-2021, 09:26 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Chino
Posts: 314
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As Bigpapa mentioned, in one of the oval holes, there is a notch cut for the valve stem. I align that with the valve stem and hold the cover in place at the center. Then I lightly pound all around the circumference of the cover with the rubber mallet until it bites and continue all around, gradually harder until it is in all the way.
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05-07-2021, 02:34 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Muskegon
Posts: 91
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One thing I will add is have the valve stem at the bottom. This allows you to put your foot against the cap to hold it in place while tapping around the cap with a rubber mallet. Learned this many years ago working at a gasoline service station.
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05-07-2021, 06:29 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 3,790
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__________________
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05-18-2021, 09:06 AM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Elgin
Posts: 82
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Did you figure out what was causing the problem? Also forgot to mention once you get the covers on put two zip ties through the cover and the rim as a little insurance.
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05-18-2021, 09:11 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Chino
Posts: 314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGPAPA1970
Did you figure out what was causing the problem? Also forgot to mention once you get the covers on put two zip ties through the cover and the rim as a little insurance.
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Good idea! I will have to get the valve extenders because I have a tough time with the rigid dual head chuck. I always have to remove the wheel covers to reach them. This way, I won't have to remove the covers every time I want to check and fill each tire.
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05-18-2021, 02:08 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Denver
Posts: 4,195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGPAPA1970
Did you figure out what was causing the problem? Also forgot to mention once you get the covers on put two zip ties through the cover and the rim as a little insurance.
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Not yet - the white rims with the aluminum wheel covers in the back continue to mock me and my incompetence.
__________________
2016 Greyhawk 31FK
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05-26-2021, 12:00 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: New Freedom, PA
Posts: 791
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Please see the Attached.
.
__________________
Ron K3HIL Amateur Extra
Retired
2016 Greyhawk 29MV
2000 Jeep Sahara
"Any advice I give or facts I present are valid to the best of my knowledge,
but I am not responsible if you follow it and you **** your **** up."
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05-26-2021, 12:28 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Hampstead
Posts: 131
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Yes they can be a bear to get on but i would rather they be tight than loose!
The use of feet, knees and a rubber mallet seems to work but not always on the first try.
Practice, Practice, Practice!
Good luck and since they were on there once, they will go on again!
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05-26-2021, 06:14 PM
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#15
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: TOPEKA
Posts: 45
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Speaking of wheel covers
Our new to us last fall 2013 Greyhawk has aluminum rims. The dually rims have a Ultra center cap. The driver’s side is nice and tight, but the passenger’s side is quite loose and wobbly. Can anyone tell me how these attach to the rim? Jayco says it’s a question for Ford, since it’s a chassis component. Ford says they put the E450s out with steel rims. So, if guess Jayco contracted with someone to do the modifications.
Anyway...some websites say the cap pushes through from the back. Others say there are tabs pushed out by a circular wire tension spring.
I just don’t want to take the wheel off to replace the cap if I don’t have to, and also don’t want to break the wobbly one trying to take it off incorrectly, in the event I can actually “fix” it instead of buying a new one.
Any help you all can provide will be greatly appropriated!
Thanks!
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05-27-2021, 06:55 AM
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#16
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Puyallup
Posts: 8
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Speaking of wheel covers
I had the same problem last month when I removed the covers to have better access when I checked tire pressure. I sprayed a lite coating of WD-40 along the rim where the tangs contact the wheel. I also insured that the tangs were not bent out. The wheel covers went right on using a rubber mallet after that.
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05-30-2021, 08:21 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 322
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I've removed all four wheel cover simulators -- cuz they squeaked.
About three years ago, after going nuts trying to find the squeak, an old-timer at at tire shop told me the problem likely was the simulators. I removed both, and he was right.
Then with another squeak two years later, my wife suggested I remove the front simulators. Squeak gone.
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06-01-2021, 11:25 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Denver
Posts: 4,195
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What's a tire simulator?
__________________
2016 Greyhawk 31FK
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06-01-2021, 11:27 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Sandy
Posts: 277
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The silver looking hubcap thingy that makes your rim look like it is actually polished metal. It is removable.
__________________
Yeti: 2000 Greyhawk 26Y, 2019 Ford E-450
Make it a great day
Don
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06-01-2021, 11:39 AM
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#20
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Muskegon
Posts: 91
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I think those of us old enough remember them as hubcaps.
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