Stray voltage from chassis framework

[ruralIN]

I recently purchased a used 2002 Granite Ridge to use now that I an recently retired. I am quite happy with it except for two electrical "problems". When plugged into 120V shoreline it is still using the battery power and doesn't appear to be receiving any 12V from the converter. Also, and maybe related, if I touch sensitive skin to any part of the framework (basement latches, etc) I feel a biting tingle. It isn't sufficient to feel with the palms or fingers but an inner wrist, particularly if sweaty, makes one take notice. Anyone have any ideas?

[tnchuck100]

The ground from the pedestal is not making a good connection to the frame. If this is only at one campground it could be a campground problem. If it is doing this everywhere then you will need to check all of your connections starting at the converter. The turn off all breakers and see if you can isolate which circuit may be creating the problem. It is a tedious troubleshooting process. If electrical stuff is not your bag you may want to seek out someone who understands electrical.

[3'senough]

Originally Posted by tnchuck100

The ground from the pedestal is not making a good connection to the frame. If this is only at one campground it could be a campground problem. If it is doing this everywhere then you will need to check all of your connections starting at the converter. The turn off all breakers and see if you can isolate which circuit may be creating the problem. It is a tedious troubleshooting process. If electrical stuff is not your bag you may want to seek out someone who understands electrical.

+1. I just yesterday had to replace the receptacle at my house due to the ground being open. Tripped my EMS.

[RoyBraddy]

If you are plugged into your house electric be sure you are using a good 10-3 or 12-3 extension cord with all three connectors connected to the house receptacle. Also make sure the house receptacle is properly wired to include the ground etc... ALso make sure the RV30A-15A Adapter is ok to use. I always use the long "dogbone" version as the small round ones all seem to get hot one real quick and burns my 30A Shore Power cable connector...
looks like this and then needs replaced.


Using one of these circuit testers will answer those questions by observing the proper lights being lit...


As we get older the small shocks can be bad for us... I would most definitely figure out why this happening even to the point of getting an electrical inspection.

The only frame ground your trailer frame gets is through the shore power electrical connection...

With the ground missing from the shore power you may have got a GFCI FAULT which may have interrupted the 120VAC feeding the converter unit.

It is easy to tell if you are connected to the converter OK. Use a multimeter to measyre across the battery terminals for the trailer without the shore power cable hooked up. It shpould read 12.6-7VDC if you battery is fully charged. Leaving the multimeter hooked up to the battery terminals then connect the shore power cable. The multimeter should read 13.6VDC telling you the on-board converter is working properly and connected to your trailer battery system. If you don't see the 13.6VDC then you are either disconencted due to the battery disconnect swith in the wrong position or due to a bad connection at the battery or some 12VDC fuses blown between the battery terminal and converter. It also could mean the converter is not working. Then you have to open up the converter and see if it is putting out 13.6VDC on its BAT CONNECTION terminal. If not then the 120VAC circuit breaker may be tripped running the converter module.

Roy Ken

[ruralIN]

Thanks for the posts. I did go buy a tester and found out the circuit did have an open ground. I haven't had the time to check out the other items mentioned or work through the circuits to see which on may be the offender but will work on getting the outlet grounded first.

[3'senough]

Originally Posted by ruralIN

Thanks for the posts. I did go buy a tester and found out the circuit did have an open ground. I haven't had the time to check out the other items mentioned or work through the circuits to see which on may be the offender but will work on getting the outlet grounded first.

I think you just found your issue, but confirm with a voltage meter and not your body.

[Harvard]

Originally Posted by ruralIN

Thanks for the posts. I did go buy a tester and found out the circuit did have an open ground. I haven't had the time to check out the other items mentioned or work through the circuits to see which on may be the offender but will work on getting the outlet grounded first.

The problem is the open ground wire to the pedestal, the voltage source is normal WHEN the chassis is floating. As the chassis floats it will assume a voltage which is about (or less then) 1/2 the 120 VAC or about 60 VAC IF there are no other paths from chassis to Earth. Other paths to Earth could include levelling jacks etc. This leaking current is a capacitive coupling between neutral, hot and the floating chassis which typically does not pass enough current to trip GFCIs (if there was a GFCI involved).

[Thunderbolt]

I had the exact same problem. Found the neutral open on the 30 amp plug on the shore power cord. Installed new plug and sealed with silicon rubber.

[Mustang65]

First I would recommend that you pick up a 30 or 50 amp to 15Amp adapter plug. Plug that into the pedestal's 30 or 50 amp receptacle and with a voltage checking device like Roy mentioned in an earlier post. That will eliminate any CG generated power issues.

Since your RV is was pre-owned, and you have no clue as to if the previous owner may have wired in something incorrectly, or some electrical connection may have gone bad (battery charge controller/AC/Microwave...) you can try turning off ALL your 110VAC breakers (main and individual circuits) and see if you still get a stray voltage (using a volt meter). If you do, then odds are the problem is in your 110AC distribution panel/shore power connection.

If not then you are probably good between the 110VAC control panel and the shore power connection. So, next you would turn on the main breaker and take another reading, if you get a stray voltage your may have a problem with your 110VAC distribution panel, if not... start turning on each 15Amp 110VAC breaker one at a time, checking for the stray voltage after you turn on each one. If you get a stray voltage after turning on one of the individual 15Amp breakers, you can look at the wiring diagram and see what is activated by that breaker and start tracing the wiring.

Also, since it is pre-owned check any 110VAC outlets/things that are not standard with the Jayco trailers, that the previous owner may have wired in them selves and check those items for proper wiring.

Good Luck,

Don

[Thunderbolt]

the 1st thing & checked was the 30A outlet that I installed next to garage door. Had a tester as you described. Determined right off that it was the plug. The neutral prong was loose Y pulled out easily. I new I had a problem when I crawled uder the MH & my arm touched a support strap & I got a tingle. I have a plug in tester that I keep plugged in to the outlet nest to the door of the MH. I have a foreign voltage tester(FVT) that I used when I was working for AT&T as a tech. Works well without having to make contact with the item being tested. We used it a lot when dealing with mobile homes that had aluminum siding.

[Mustang65]

Originally Posted by Thunderbolt

. I have a foreign voltage tester(FVT) that I used when I was working for AT&T as a tech. Works well without having to make contact with the item being tested. We used it a lot when dealing with mobile homes that had aluminum siding.

The magic wand... check the old led cable spans, Icky-picky sheeting, ground line running up the pole.. never saw one... wish I still had mine..

I now use an iPhone app called Power Line.. works pretty good for finding hiding AC wires.... or wires that have AC power in them..


Don

[Thunderbolt]

I remember the old magic wand. The one I have now is the latest and easiest to use.