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Old 05-22-2012, 05:43 PM   #1
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Tankless Water Heater

Just took delivery of a new 31FS. It has the tankless water heater. It works great when using the sink faucets, but, not so well with the shower. It continually cycles from hot to cold every 20 seconds.

In the manual, it states that this will happen when it is not getting enough flow, and the high heat limit is tripped. I'm not sure how to get more flow. I open the hot water valve completely without any cold and it still cycles.

Does anyone have any experience with this? Thanks in advance,
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Old 05-22-2012, 08:18 PM   #2
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Welcome to the JOF bgermane! We are considering an upgrade to (??), but will watch this thread with interest
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Old 05-22-2012, 08:26 PM   #3
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I don't have any experiance with it, but do you have a water pressure regulator or anything else (water filter, etc) that would restrict the flow of water going into the water heater? Hope you can solve the problem.
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Old 05-23-2012, 11:10 AM   #4
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Thinking the same

I have always used a simple pressure regulator. I have noticed that there are also regulators marketed as "high flow". I am probably going to give one of those a try. And yes, there is the integral water filter system. The water flow in the shower is pretty poor.
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Old 06-12-2012, 11:39 PM   #5
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Found the problem... Now what?

After sitting in the service center for nearly two weeks, there's still no resolution. Brought the unit home today to work on it myself.

I spoke to the maufacturer of the water heater. He stated that the heater needs a minimum of 1.4 to 1.5 gpm flowing through it so that it won't cycle. I took measurements at both faucets and the shower. They all measured nearly identical - .85 to .90 gpm. Seems to me that there's a bigger problem here. I would be curious if anyone else out there has ever taken flow readings in their unit. Unless, there is some sort of blockage, this is a design flaw, and obviously, I'm really disappointed.

I'm rather suprised that this hasn't come up already. The service center did tell me that this was the first one that they had worked on. I plan on speaking to Jayco tomorrow.
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Old 06-13-2012, 05:33 AM   #6
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I am wondering if your water pump is performing on spec. or if there is an issue with the on-demand circuit. Jayco will most likely be able to help you trouble shoot it. They have been great when I have called. Our 31FS has the standard water heater, but the tech at Jayco told me a trick to get it to heat faster and perform better under higher demand. He said that when I need hot water fast and more, to simply use both electric and gas at the same time. It worked. But you must turn one off after your higher demand need is over. (noting this does not apply to you, but maybe to another reader).
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Old 06-13-2012, 05:34 AM   #7
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Did you remove the shower head to test the flow rate? Could the head be effecting the flow (i knw they are designed to be low flow)..
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Old 06-13-2012, 09:28 AM   #8
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So, the tests were conducted while connected to a water supply, and with the shower head removed. I am now using a high flow regulator, which didn't make any difference. The flow is slighlty improved, but nearly identical when using the pump. I'm suprised at how much the system reduces the overall gpm. The hose bib at my house provided over 7 gpm, but inside the coach, I get 0.85 gpm.

Maybe this is a typical flow rate. Not sure. I never encountered this in my previous rv. The shower worked very well.
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Old 06-13-2012, 01:55 PM   #9
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OK, I am going to ask a dumb question. What settings are your valves on inside the garage compartment? Are you set to "City Fixtures" when connected to your water supply? Do you have a means to test pressure at the outlets (sink/shower)? Is there a difference in performance running on the 12v water pump (with manifold valves set to "normal")? The onboard water pump should put up 45 pounds per specs.

Could the factory have mis-connected the valve manifold that changes the water system functions?

There is also a possiblity you have a clogged line from the factory, reducing your flow.
Any visual signs of an occlusion at the hose connection? remove screen at hose connection and inspect.

Just throwing out ideas, you have probably done these things.
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Old 06-13-2012, 04:12 PM   #10
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How about a valve before the HW heater? There are small black inline valves throughout your coach most likely. I have them throughout mine and they are not marked anywhere. Most are in plain sight but you might have some concealed somewhere?

Control panel argument is a good one too.
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