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Old 08-05-2018, 03:12 PM   #1
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Tekonsha P3 brake controller install

Hello All, I am installing a Tekonsha trailer brake controller on my 2008 Jayco Seneca. I followed the harness from the hitch back to about 10 feet from the engine and then it disappeared into a larger harness. I think I am going to do a generic wiring going directly to a positive in the fuse panel and grounding in the same manner. Also I will probably run a new blue brake wire back to the hitch. My problem is the cold wire hookup to the break pedal. I have no idea what wire in the harness on the brake pedal is the cold side or energized when the pedal is depressed. Anybody know what wire and any suggestions if this generic method is OK.
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Old 08-05-2018, 03:38 PM   #2
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I had the same model on my Last truck, 2014 1500 RAM, there was a connector tucked up by the steering wheel column, just plugged it in and was good to go.
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Old 08-05-2018, 04:31 PM   #3
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A lot of cars and trucks that have tow packages have connections hidden somewhere up under the dash. Do a quick internet check and/or call your dealer and ask where it is. I had to get a special Jeep changeover cable connector to go from the Jeep end to the Tekonsha end.
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Old 08-05-2018, 04:40 PM   #4
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If you have the 7-Way connector at your hitch, I would think you should be able to use the 2-plug adapter cable. The connection should be in a connector box on the firewall behind the drivers seat. https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...ha/3015-P.html
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Old 08-05-2018, 05:47 PM   #5
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I have the GM adapter but all of my computer searches have come up blank with a built in connection. The Kodiak- Topkick chassis diagram shows the wiring harness ending where I found it, about 10 feet from the engine on the main frame member. There is an old bracket under the dash but the wiring harnesses don't seem to be anything useable. Also since all the wiring runs are from 2008 I thought it would be better to just run all new wires. My problem is the brake pedal wiring. Tekonsha says to splice into the cold side of the brake pedal wiring. That is the wire actuated when the pedal is depressed. I could not believe there is a 6 wire harness coming from the pedal. HELP
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Old 08-07-2018, 05:59 AM   #6
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I am going to tap into the brake light wiring harness. I think problem is solved.
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Old 08-07-2018, 06:09 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Capt. Rich View Post
I am going to tap into the brake light wiring harness. I think problem is solved.
That may or may not be fused and wired to give you enough power to stop your trailer! I'd definitely dig deeper before assuming it's okay! Your worst case scenario is that it blows the fuse for the brake lights and now, not only do you not have brake lights, you don't have brakes on the trailer!
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Old 08-09-2018, 10:52 AM   #8
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I have a 2018 redhawk and found out that pretty much all the factory connector for adding trailer brake is behind steering column, i removed the panel under steering wheel and found plug hanging to the left and some say they have found behind upper center dash, i think it is meant to be accessible from under dash as to where i located mine, plugged in tekonsha p3 controller and works like a charm
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Old 08-09-2018, 11:28 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Capt. Rich View Post
Hello All, I am installing a Tekonsha trailer brake controller on my 2008 Jayco Seneca. I followed the harness from the hitch back to about 10 feet from the engine and then it disappeared into a larger harness
The end of that wire is in the bundle that ends under the passenger side seat in the frame rail. Also. "DO NOT" connect to the brake switch it will fail. Search for Bulletin 66 for the KODIAK/TOPKICK it gives you specific instructions for the install.
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Old 08-09-2018, 07:34 PM   #10
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Thanks All and thanks Grumpy. We have the same rig. I will do a search for the harness end this weekend. I believe the blue wire is the power up for the electric brakes on the trailer. This does have a strong draw. It probably is overkill but I was planning on running a new blue wire back to the hitch from the Tekonsha. The yellow wire just triggers the relay in the controller-not requiring much amperage. I think I will run the + and - leads from the controller directly to the fuse panel. All new runs instead of using the 2008 wiring harness. Thoughts?
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Old 08-09-2018, 08:16 PM   #11
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I would follow the info from Bulletin 66. If you do a google search, Kodiak Chassis Bulletin 66, there are multiple discussions as well as the pdf for the Bulletin.

The trigger for the controller is a light blue wire.
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