Tire load

[bidibim]

Hello,
We have a 2005 Greyhawk 26SS with CCC of 980 lbs, 3/4 gasoline, full propane, all empty water tanks, all that's missing is a little food and fill the fresh water tank and hot water and the bikes. We are already at the rear tire capacity 9880 lbs (2470lbs X 4 tires) and the GAWR is 4600 lbs. Is there something we do not understand and do you have a solution?
Thank you, Yves

[che57vy]

Look at the big yellow sticker on coach mine is on the passenger door, tells you what you need to know, when loaded take it to Cat scale it will give you front and rear axle weights

[bidibim]

Hello chev57vy,
Thank you for the answer. That's what we did and what annoys me is that I'm already at the tire load limit and we have to add food and water. I wonder if I can change my tires that are load range E for F or G that would have a higher limit?
bidibim

[curver900]

are you saying the tires are rated lower than the axle weight limits?

example only! If you have 2 tires and they are rated at 2000lbs each and the axle limit is 4000lbs then tires 2x2000=4000lbs and they match...
if you have tires rated at 1500lbs each for 3000lbs tire limit but the axle rating is 4000lbs, then putting on new tires will get the tire rating to match the axle limit..

You can exceed the axle limit with tires ratings but you shouldn't over load your rig based on the ratings of the tires if that makes sense...

[che57vy]

Safety is key, you have to look at things like braking, handling, etc and axle bearings all have their limits My 09 Greyhawk has only 1200 lbs cargo weight. So if you carry full tank of water, full tank of poo, and full tank of gray you have about had it weight wise of course I always dump those. They are limited on cargo. Nothing like trying to stop a lead sled with under capacity brakes. get into a accident and first thing the lawyers will look at is cargo weight

[oldmanAZ]

Originally Posted by bidibim

Hello,
We have a 2005 Greyhawk 26SS with CCC of 980 lbs, 3/4 gasoline, full propane, all empty water tanks, all that's missing is a little food and fill the fresh water tank and hot water and the bikes. We are already at the rear tire capacity 9880 lbs (2470lbs X 4 tires) and the GAWR is 4600 lbs. Is there something we do not understand and do you have a solution?
Thank you, Yves

Yves, welcome to the forum.

I'm assuming you bought the unit used and a previous owner installed the current tires. I believe there will be a sticker on the driver's side door frame that shows the tires and inflation for the new vehicle. IMO, because of tire rim limitations and dual tires, you'll want to talk with a tire dealer before you buy tires.

[fast_st]

Okay, I've seen this a lot before, RV mfg whips up a dandy coach and the tires are on the razor's edge. Overloading doesn't kill a tire but heat does. @che57vy 's comment is exactly spot on, load up and go hit a gravel or truck stop scale that'll give you readings on a per axle basis. Our oil company used to sell coal and had old scales that were operational still but you had to do half on and half off to get axle weights.


Now go to the door tag, should be from the MFG and one from the chassis refitter that'll give you axle loading data and what your tire spec is as to number of plies and or load rating of the tire.



Its worthwhile on a heavy unit like that, inflate your tires to your sidewall rating for load carrying, typically 85psi on a load range E (10pr) tire. Although they never seem to have 10 plies anymore the ply rating is a method of holding back air pressure. Higher ply ratings hold more air and thus more weight for a given size tire, wider tires in 10 ply ratings will hold more weight, more square inches x same psi.



Also use your digital temperature indicators, I tow a heavy 5th and do this on every stop, take the glove off your digits and touch the tread on the front tire, compare to each rear tire and then to the trailer tires, properly inflated they should all be about the same, say 10-15 degrees hotter than air temperature. Any tire that's too hot to touch is a problem. Tires seem to have a 5 or 6 to one pressure safety factor so adding 5-10 psi more air in an emergency can keep you from overheating a tire and having a blowout.



I had to drag an overloaded 5th wheel equipment trailer x country with a 3/4 ton pickup, single wheel but with very beefed up springs. My tire temps were 90f 110f 130f 130f from the front axle to last trailer axle. I added 10 psi to the trailers on top of the hot pressure and 5 psi to the rear truck tires, checked again in 200 miles 90,105,110,110 another five psi to each tire got me down to 90's across the board. The trailer tires from the mfg were 6 ply and should have been 10 ply but they did hold 85 psi without issue until they were replaced. The truck tires ended up at 85 and 98 psi total.



If you're running high speeds, 70+ that will also add to the heat build up but you may benefit from a load range F or G tire. 95 or 105 psi tires. My uncle ran things by the book load range E tires on his Coachmen, every year he'd replace 2 or 4 rear tires due to blowouts. He was far over the rated load from the mfg

[bidibim]

Thank you all for the answers, it is very appreciated!

On weighing, I do not exceed the total weight, but only on the rear axle.
The problem is that the spaces to put our things are mostly at the back ...
I have enough confidence in the solidity of the rear axle because the suspension is stronger and the braking is powerful despite being overweight.
What I do not trust is the tires.
We have redistributed the load inwards and the tires seem less compressed.
But I'm going to check if there are stronger tires for the space between the dual wheels and also the space available around the tires ...

Thank you all for the answers, it is very appreciated!
On weighing, I do not exceed the total weight, but only on the rear axle.
The problem is that the spaces to put our things are mostly at the back ...
I have enough confidence in the solidity of the rear axle because the suspension is stronger and the braking is powerful despite being overweight.
What I do not trust is the tires.
We have redistributed the load inwards and the tires seem less compressed.
I'm going to check if there are stronger tires for the space between the double wheels and also the space available around the tires ...

Thank you for your help and if you have ideas or advice it is always very welcome,
bidibim

[fast_st]

How does the tire temperature feel after a little trip down the road?

[RogerR]

Tires should get a little warmer as there is essentially the equivalent of friction as the rubber in the tire distorts and rebounds every time it turns. There will be extra heat from very rough roads.

But neither of these should make a lot of difference except when you have low pressure due to a leak or failure to maintain pressure. Then the flex gets much larger and the increase in temp is substantially more.

I carry a laser temp gauge $15 bucks on Amazon. Mostly to watch the hubs as they get very hot as they go bad. Additional heat can come from a dragging brake. Enough heat will cause failure.

Generally, if you touch each tire on a walk around and one is way hotter than the others ( car and trailer) then it is time to stop and investigate.

Maintaining cold inflation at door panel for vehicles and sidewall for trailers is your best protection from failure

[bidibim]

Fast_st,
I did not drive long enough to check, we only went to a campsite nearby. In two weeks we will do more road and I will check the tires regularly as you advised me, besides I got a TPMS that I will install here at the campsite.