Ugh! Battery

DonnaB · 07-04-2019, 01:35 PM

Can anyone guide me as to why, when hooked up to RV Park power, the engine battery keeps draining? The radio is not on. Is there anything else I should check? My concern is if it keeps going dead like this, requiring me to push the jump button to get it started, it’s going to ruin the battery.
Thanks, Donna

bababooey · 07-04-2019, 01:49 PM

Install a trik-l-start.

https://www.lslproducts.net/TLSPage.html

RetiredOne · 07-04-2019, 03:00 PM

Your chassis battery does NOT charged when plugged into shore power. Only your house battery is being charged. Your chassis battery only charges when the engine is running.

I wonder if you have a bad battery. That's a known issue on newer units, that's why it doesn't hold a charge. The Ford chassis isn't known to draw down the battery under normal conditions, unless you have something strange going on.

I suggest load testing the chassis battery to determine if it's OK.

gprapim · 07-04-2019, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RetiredOne

Your chassis battery does NOT charged when plugged into shore power. Only your house battery is being charged. Your chassis battery only charges when the engine is running.

I wonder if you have a bad battery. That's a known issue on newer units, that's why it doesn't hold a charge. The Ford chassis isn't known to draw down the battery under normal conditions, unless you have something strange going on.

I suggest load testing the chassis battery to determine if it's OK.

X2 - Unless there is a rogue current draw, and there shouldn’t be any, it points to a bad chassis battery. A load test is definitely in order.

jd99336 · 07-05-2019, 05:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gprapim

X2 - Unless there is a rogue current draw, and there shouldn’t be any, it points to a bad chassis battery. A load test is definitely in order.

I somewhat disagree with this. There is almost always some drain on the chassis battery even when turned off as various electronics will draw on the battery. It isn't much, but I have found it will drain the battery in about a month or so of sitting idle.

As noted, you can install an aftermarket charger (trick-l-charge) or what I do is I bought a battery maintainer that is not permanently installed, but did install the quick disconnect plug to my battery. I then ran the cord to my storage bay that is wired with a 120V plug for outside TV (which I don't use).

You may still have a bad battery and only a draw down test from a battery store can tell for sure as a fully charged battery with a single bad cell will look healthy on a volt meter.

RetiredOne · 07-05-2019, 08:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jd99336

I somewhat disagree with this. There is almost always some drain on the chassis battery even when turned off as various electronics will draw on the battery. It isn't much, but I have found it will drain the battery in about a month or so of sitting idle.

Apparently you didn't read the OP, please go back and read it. They said their battery was going dead while sitting in the CG, with nothing turned on. A healthy battery won't die in that short period of time.

Yes, all units have a small parasitic drain, my Ford will drop like 0.1 or 0.2 volts in the course of a month. So, if they has a fully charged battery when they pull in, they should have plenty of power to start the unit, unless there is an abnormal electrical issue.

That's why a load test is the first place to start. If it comes back weak, then we know why the battery won't hold the charge. If it comes back OK, then there's an electrical draw that needs to be found.

My guess, as we all know, you kill a battery a few times, and it's toast, and won't hold a charge. Age has nothing to do with it.

I had to replace the battery in my brand new coach, it was 6 months old. Apparently Ford, then Jayco, then the dealer let it die too many times, and it wouldn't hold a charge.

houstonstroker · 07-05-2019, 08:51 AM

I'm not familiar how the Seneca is wired. If you say that the chassis battery will not charge on shore power, does the reverse apply? Will the house batteries charge on engine power? I have a different brand of motorhome with the M2 chassis, but on shore power the engine batteries get charged.

gprapim · 07-05-2019, 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RetiredOne

Apparently you didn't read the OP, please go back and read it. They said their battery was going dead while sitting in the CG, with nothing turned on. A healthy battery won't die in that short period of time.

Yes, all units have a small parasitic drain, my Ford will drop like 0.1 or 0.2 volts in the course of a month. So, if they has a fully charged battery when they pull in, they should have plenty of power to start the unit, unless there is an abnormal electrical issue.

That's why a load test is the first place to start. If it comes back weak, then we know why the battery won't hold the charge. If it comes back OK, then there's an electrical draw that needs to be found.

My guess, as we all know, you kill a battery a few times, and it's toast, and won't hold a charge. Age has nothing to do with it.

I had to replace the battery in my brand new coach, it was 6 months old. Apparently Ford, then Jayco, then the dealer let it die too many times, and it wouldn't hold a charge.

Exactly, not really rocket science, but a little knowledge and understanding as well as some common sense goes a long way in diagnosing whether it is a battery or an electrical problem. A load test will usually tell whether the battery is at fault.

RVermont · 07-05-2019, 10:26 AM

On the Seneca the charge will work in several ways due to the battery isolation module. The alternator will charge the chassis, and if needed it will charge the house batteries, the same is true the other way the converter will charge the house batteries while plugged in or under generator power. If the chassis batteries start to drop a few points below the house batteries the module will allow the converter to charge the chassis batteries.

I am not sure if this is true of the model that the op has, it appears to be a redwing (Redhawk?) according to their signature.

Usually if there is a button on the dash the unit has isolation module which allows the starting of low chassis batteries by utilizing the house batteries.

RetiredOne · 07-05-2019, 11:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RVermont

I am not sure if this is true of the model that the op has, it appears to be a redwing (Redhawk?) according to their signature.

Usually if there is a button on the dash the unit has isolation module which allows the starting of low chassis batteries by utilizing the house batteries.

On the Redhawk, it's just one direction. If engine/alternator is running, the house batteries and chassis are getting charged too. But, plugged into shore power or on generator, only the house batteries are being charged, not the chassis. Some here have installed a separate trickle charger to charge the chassis battery when plugged into shore power.

UncleBill · 07-05-2019, 01:29 PM

Hi Donna...if you do install a battery trickle charger on your "chassis" battery, I highly recommend the "Battery Tender" brand. I have one of these on about everything I own and they work great !

Bullitt6283 · 07-13-2019, 05:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bababooey

Install a trik-l-start.

https://www.lslproducts.net/TLSPage.html

I just finished installing one in my 2016 Greyhawk. Now I don't have to worry about hooking up a charger to the chassis battery.

.

RetiredOne · 07-13-2019, 07:13 PM

Wondering what happened to the OP, did she load test her battery to see if it was the problem and if it was good or dead?

Click_here · 07-15-2019, 10:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RetiredOne

On the Redhawk, it's just one direction. If engine/alternator is running, the house batteries and chassis are getting charged too. But, plugged into shore power or on generator, only the house batteries are being charged, not the chassis. Some here have installed a separate trickle charger to charge the chassis battery when plugged into shore power.

Same on a Greyhawk. I'd 3rd the opinion, take it into a Pep Boys or any shop that sells batteries and have them test it in front of you.

New TN Camper · 07-15-2019, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DonnaB

Can anyone guide me as to why, when hooked up to RV Park power, the engine battery keeps draining? The radio is not on. Is there anything else I should check? My concern is if it keeps going dead like this, requiring me to push the jump button to get it started, it’s going to ruin the battery.
Thanks, Donna

Donna, check out the Battery Drain 2017 Melbourne thread. I bumped it up to the top of the Class C section.

RetiredOne · 07-15-2019, 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by New TN Camper

Donna, check out the Battery Drain 2017 Melbourne thread. I bumped it up to the top of the Class C section.

She has a Redhawk (Ford), not a Melbourne.

New TN Camper · 07-16-2019, 08:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RetiredOne

She has a Redhawk (Ford), not a Melbourne.

True, but it has the same problem, and possibly the same solution. Might help.

berwin · 07-17-2019, 03:38 PM

This is a known problem with some units based on my research. Our battery starts going down not long after you turn the engine off. Even plugged into shore power, it needs a boost the next morning. Two different dealers have said they fixed the problem (they didn't) and the last one said Jayco said to replace the battery isolater. I replaced the original battery with a good Interstate AGP one but still have the problem. When staying in a campground, I put a battery charger/maintainer on and plug it into shore power as well. I was planning on installing a Trik-L-Start but they seem to be out of stock (currently unavailable) everywhere. Does anyone know if there is a problem with them?

Click_here · 07-18-2019, 08:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by berwin

This is a known problem with some units based on my research. Our battery starts going down not long after you turn the engine off. Even plugged into shore power, it needs a boost the next morning. Two different dealers have said they fixed the problem (they didn't) and the last one said Jayco said to replace the battery isolater. I replaced the original battery with a good Interstate AGP one but still have the problem. When staying in a campground, I put a battery charger/maintainer on and plug it into shore power as well. I was planning on installing a Trik-L-Start but they seem to be out of stock (currently unavailable) everywhere. Does anyone know if there is a problem with them?

Interesting. I was wondering why our less than 18 month ld battery on our newly purchased Greyhawk needed the engine running to get the generator to start and why the battery, when disconnected from shore power showed 1/3 charge. A local Jayco dealer parts guy told me keeping the unit plugged in likely burned up the battery! I didn't LOL at him but sort of rolled my eyes.

Their repair folks told me to bring it in since it seemed to be a charging system problem. Since they had a month and a half backlog, I just bought another battery. Now that still need to drop it off for weeks for the recall, I will ask them to check out the battery as well.

RetiredOne · 07-18-2019, 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Click_here

Interesting. I was wondering why our less than 18 month ld battery on our newly purchased Greyhawk needed the engine running to get the generator to start and why the battery, when disconnected from shore power showed 1/3 charge. A local Jayco dealer parts guy told me keeping the unit plugged in likely burned up the battery! I didn't LOL at him but sort of rolled my eyes.

Technicians.... sometimes you wonder under what rock they found some of these guys...

What many people don't understand is that it's not about AGE of a battery, it's about USAGE. You can take a newer battery, and flat line it once or twice, and it will be toast. So, what I see happens, a person accidentally runs down their battery by leaving something turned on, and thinks nothing of it, and just recharges it. Then, afterwards, wonders why it doesn't hold a charge that long.

If a battery is run down under 11 volts, even ONCE, you can permanently damage it, and hurt it's recharging ability and it's ability to hold charge.

This is why, if anyone relies on battery power, a really important tool for the tool box is a load tester and a digital volt meter. It's the only way to determine the health of your batteries.

A simple load tester can be bought on Amazon for a little over $20. This is a great investment to keep people from getting stuck with dead batteries.

https://www.amazon.com/XtremepowerUS...ateway&sr=8-24

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