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04-08-2015, 05:15 PM
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#101
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Morris
Posts: 250
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Sorry to jump in, but I used the leveling jacks on the RV. Did both on one side evenly, then the other side. If you don't have them I would recommend a couple of heavy duty hydrolick jacks on the frame before and after the tires.
__________________
Retired and loving it.
Got a new 2014 Grayhawk 31DS
Hoping to get away from the IL winters
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04-08-2015, 05:43 PM
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#102
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: St Pete
Posts: 18
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Did Mine Today
2014 Greyhawk 31 Ds
Was not as hard as I thought. First nut I took off (the bottom one) stripped and I had to cut the U-bolt to get it off. Just had to cut an inch off no problem. I did use a c-clamp when I thought the nut was turning hard c-clamp worked great may not have been needed but was afraid of stripping the U-bolt. I used the jacks to raise each side to take weight off.
On the pass side where exhaust pipe come out the U-bolt hit the exhaust pipe when that side was jacked up. I cut an inch or two off the U-bolt so it did not hit the exhaust pipe.
I put the right at 2" and the left at 1.75". The left side has both slides and a loaded fridge. Don't know if that was smart but that's what I did. Was not sure to go 1" or 2" will continue to monitor this thread.
Thanks to all who have posted here.
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04-09-2015, 02:18 AM
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#103
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: NE Oklahoma
Posts: 187
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Just to clarify, I have the 31 FS model. The U-bolts were adjusted to 2 inches all around as MadDad and others have suggested and based upon their test rides after this procedure was done. No bolts were removed. Tighten up (clockwise) on one side slightly and slowly and then on the other (same U-bolt) slightly and slowly. I always followed up immediately with the security/locking bolt as I did not put much faith in the threads as two bolts are better than one on the same bolt. Did not use an air-gun as I was concerned about stripping these bolt threads and they turned with just slight resistance using my 7/8" ratcheting tool. The bolt threads still appeared brand new and if there was evidence of any corrosion there I would have probably taken this to a shop and paid out the money. Finally, I took the added safety precaution of placing heavy duty jack stands under the frame. This because each side had to be raised up as described in previous posts.
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04-09-2015, 09:12 AM
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#104
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Morris
Posts: 250
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Don't know how to show two thumbs up, but good job!! Oh, there's an emoticon for that.
__________________
Retired and loving it.
Got a new 2014 Grayhawk 31DS
Hoping to get away from the IL winters
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04-10-2015, 09:47 PM
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#105
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Columbus, IN
Posts: 28
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Thanks to MadDad for suggestions. Did adjustment today. Haven't taken out to interstate to test yet. C Clamp, levelers, and 7/8" wrench all a must. The 2nd nut was cinched down tightly and was a "bugger". Used a 15" adjustable crescent wrench with a mallet finally to break seal. Pics attached.
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04-11-2015, 09:08 AM
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#106
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: NJ
Posts: 274
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I adjusted mine myself as well. I had two u bolts that were stripped out. I called hellwig and they said they were getting a lot of calls on this and sent me newu bolts. Only problem was they did not send thenuts . I had run all over town to find the right ones.
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04-11-2015, 09:44 AM
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#107
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Western NY
Posts: 228
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Wonderful to hear they are getting lots of calls. Apparently that is the only way folks can encourage responsible behavior and step forward to address or dismiss the issue. It's sad that's how things roll.
__________________
'16 Coachmen Mirada 35BH
Formerly 31FK 15 Grayhawk
Toad: 2015 Jeep Cherokee "The Caboose".
Taking in the sights wherever my Trolley takes me!
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04-12-2015, 07:25 AM
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#108
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Rural Alberta
Posts: 9
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Thanks msturtz!!! I was able to get the nuts to break free, without stripping fortunately. While doing the adjustment on the helper springs I came to realize 2 things. First Mor-Ryde doesnt know what the final weight of the chassis is going to be so best to leave them locked down on a light setting then have a really harsh ride. Second has anyone had to cut the inside Ubolt to clear the rear sway bar? My unit they are both with in 1/4 in, which i think is a bit close for moving suspension pieces.
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04-12-2015, 12:49 PM
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#109
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: NE Oklahoma
Posts: 187
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fam cruiser
Thanks msturtz!!! I was able to get the nuts to break free, without stripping fortunately. While doing the adjustment on the helper springs I came to realize 2 things. First Mor-Ryde doesnt know what the final weight of the chassis is going to be so best to leave them locked down on a light setting then have a really harsh ride. Second has anyone had to cut the inside Ubolt to clear the rear sway bar? My unit they are both with in 1/4 in, which i think is a bit close for moving suspension pieces.
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Well somebody DOES know what the final weight of the chassis is going to be. Maybe Mor-Ryde needs to talk things over with the somebody who DOES know so that you won't have to cut U-bolts.
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04-13-2015, 11:22 AM
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#110
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Carleton
Posts: 15
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I adjusted mine yesterday as well. Wasn't too bad however I did notice that the end of the bolt connecting the rear spring to the chassis is rubbing a hole in my black tank! It's so tight I couldn't get a tape measure blade between them!
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04-13-2015, 06:44 PM
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#111
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 360
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So finally finished a long ride home, some 1600 miles and can say for sure that adjusting the helliwigs made a big improvement in handling and also not allowing the rear suspension to bottom out.
Much less sawing at the wheel and most semis went by with little notice.
Now to look at installing the 5Star tune.
__________________
Bruce
2012 Greyhawk 31 FK
Flat towing a 2008 Miata.
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04-20-2015, 09:31 AM
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#112
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Ravalli County
Posts: 171
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Finally looked at making this adjustment to our coach. I noticed a potential problem. Our helper springs are offset forward nearly 4". This puts the front of the helper spring almost in contact with the spring hanger. I'm afraid that after the adjustment, the helper spring will be so close that it may contact the spring hanger. Has anyone else's looked like this?
__________________
Brian, Mary, kids, beagle - Moose, and mutt - Maggie.
2012 Greyhawk 31FS
2013 Ford Explorer Toad
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04-20-2015, 11:42 AM
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#113
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: St Pete
Posts: 18
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Adjusting it down I think would definitely move it further away from the spring hanger. I don't see a problem.
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04-20-2015, 12:32 PM
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#114
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Ravalli County
Posts: 171
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Sorry to muddy everything up, but I just got off the phone with Kevin at Hellwig. He says the absolute max you can adjust them to is 2". I believe he meant to say "the least", because he went on to say that anywhere from 3"-4" is fine if it rides ok and doesn't bottom-out.
__________________
Brian, Mary, kids, beagle - Moose, and mutt - Maggie.
2012 Greyhawk 31FS
2013 Ford Explorer Toad
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04-20-2015, 01:08 PM
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#115
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Rural Alberta
Posts: 9
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Yes. That is exactly what mine liked like. When you tighten them down the arch bows them into recess of leaf spring mount. You may have to trim the rear sway bar side of the u bolt. Remember when they flex once almost flattened out they will actually being to shorten in length as the bow upward with suspension flex.
__________________
Great Scott, 2.141 Gigawatts. Take that lightning with your 1.21.
Greyhawk 31 FS
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04-20-2015, 03:43 PM
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#116
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Ringwood
Posts: 280
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Kevin at hellig told me same last year and someone at Jayco said they left their facility after inspection. Even though moryde puts them on..mine are close to 4" and ride seems good with 40 pieces of wood...left tbis issue alone a while ago
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04-20-2015, 05:30 PM
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#117
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Fuquay-Varina
Posts: 884
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NC Roamer
We just put the Greyhawk into the shop at our local Jayco dealer to take care of our list of items accumulated since we bought it in August. This was on the list:
Quote:
The Jayco Owners Forum has a recent thread about Hellwig helper springs being incorrectly installed on many Greyhawks. The thread link is:
http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=23499
Please verify with Jayco and/or Hellwig that the helper springs on the Greyhawk are adjusted to the proper heights for maximum load support.
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When we get the Greyhawk back, I will post the results.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reitrof
NC Roamer, please let us know your results. How much are you planning to have them adjusted??
Also a slight correction, they ARE installed correctly, just not adjusted for the load.
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Finally got the Greyhawk back from the dealer. (Yes, it was in their shop for three months.) The work order states:
"Tech talked with Jayco and they stated for this application based on weight loaded on the axle that the provided measurements on the spring system all is correct. The system could be tightened up but this would result in more preloading of the suspension and affect the driveability of the coach causing wagging when going down the road."
So they did not adjust my springs, but they did say that they would if I insisted. I told them to leave it as is for now. We have not used it all that much and, as this is our first motorhome, have no other driving experience with which to compare. But I must admit, it seems to drive well considering the size of the darned thing. We've never bottomed out and it does not wander all over the road.
Also, the one time I put it on some CAT scales, the rear axle was nowhere near GAWR but the front was 140 pounds over. It may be that the 31FKs with the front kitchen do not have as much weight on the rear, so my spring settings may be okay. We will use it this season, and I'll weight it again, and then I can reconsider the springs next winter.
__________________
2014 Greyhawk 31FK
2007 Honda Shadow Sabre 1100cc
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04-20-2015, 05:40 PM
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#118
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: State of Confusion
Posts: 5,014
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Oops
__________________
Murff
2015 White Hawk 20MRB (It's last year)
2017 F150 2.7 Eco Boost 3.73 Gears
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04-20-2015, 05:51 PM
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#119
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: las vegas
Posts: 61
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my springs are at about 3 inches on my 2015 29k red hawk, there is a second set of shakes in the middle behind the rear wheels, and 1 in front, the middle one is adjusted at about 1 inch, dealer said this was fine but he will keep and eye on it or let me know if anyone has a problem, have almost 10,000 miles with no problems, i had a class a with no helwig springs e450 no problems on stock ford springs, my real question are these really needed most class c do not have these, also the question someone had about the water lines against the springs, they are actually drain lines for something
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04-30-2015, 06:19 AM
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#120
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Smithtown
Posts: 84
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Does anybody know what Jayco has done about this ? My 2015 Greyhawk Hellwigs' are also not installed correctly according to this thread.
__________________
2015 Jayco Precept 35 UP
2015 Jayco Greyhawk 31 DS (SOLD)
2009 Jeep Wrangler X
2012 Jayco Skylark (SOLD)
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