was it winterized properly

[maprice]

I'm a newbie with my Jayco Greyhawk so I have a basic question. I took my Greyhawk to a reputable RV repair shop to be winterized. Later I noticed the only sign of antifreeze was in the toilet. The bathroom and kitchen sink seem to be as they were when I dropped it off--hand soap in the sinks with no sign of antifreeze. I opened one of the lowpoint drains a little and water came out with possibly some antifreeze in it. I thought the fresh water tank was completely emptied in the winterization process. Should I go back to the rv repair shop? They charged me $130.

[jimp]

You could use a flashlight to look down the sink drains, should be able to see some pink stuff that way. Rolling down the road will usually move some water around in the lines, I used to leave my LP drains open on the way home in an attempt to get as much out as possible, especially the last trip in the fall. The LP drains drain the water lines, there is a FW tank drain as well.

The owners manual will indicate the potential locations of the LP and FW tank drains.

[che57vy]

I did my own for about 5.00 took 20 min at most. My wife keeps telling me I need to start my own business. Two gallons of RV antifreeze.If you turn pump on it should spurt the pink stuff out the faucet

[RogerR]

I am a belt and suspenders guy who lost some frozen fittings several years ago to the pink only method.

After flushing with pink antifreeze I also do a compressed air flush of the system.

If you have any compressor that can produce enough air then get one of these
Camco 36143 Blow Out Plug with Brass Quick Connect

and blow out the system one tap at a time.

A cheapo air compressor from Harbor Freight or Menards will work fine. People recommend between 40 and 60 PSI. I stay at 40 PSI and wait till there is no water, mist or gurgles from each hot or cold shutoff and toilet. Don't forget the outdoor shower if you have one ( I did ).

[che57vy]

Yes I have do that too, after the pink stuff.

[THE MEEKER]

From what you have posted, I would not feel confident that the dealership winterized your unit properly.

I suggest winterize your RV on your own. Your owners manual will tell you on how to do it properly. If you get stuck, just post your questions here, Alot of great people are here on the forum and will cheerfully help you along.

It will cost you about $10.00 in RV antifreeze and about a 1/2 hour of your time. The bonus is that warm fuzzy feeling you will get knowing that it was done right.

[Love To Travel 2]

Originally Posted by RogerR

After flushing with pink antifreeze I also do a compressed air flush of the system. People recommend between 40 and 60 PSI. I stay at 40 PSI and wait till there is no water, mist or gurgles from each hot or cold shutoff and toilet. Don't forget the outdoor shower if you have one ( I did ).

RogerR,

I don't understand your method of winterizing. I did our former travel trailer and now our Greyhawk 29MV by first using compressed air to completely evacuate the lines of any trace of water. Then I would add the anti-freeze using the water pump to fill the lines. When the pink would start to exit the faucet, I would shut that one and do the next, then the toilet, and lastly the outside shower. If I do it your way, it would seem to be counterproductive, blowing the anti-freeze out of the lines. I actually used the compressor on the Greyhawk this afternoon, but I'm waiting a little while to add the anti-freeze. Can you further explain why you do it your way? Thanks!

[norty1]

You didn't mention if the wh was bypassed and drained.

If you have to verify that they did what you paid for, IMO that's enough to go back ands ask again, or learn how to do it yourself.

[che57vy]

When I winterized my Greyhawk, I bypassed the water heater by closing the valves took out the plug and drained it. Then I blew out the lines with compressed air, then added the RV antifreeze thru out the water system. I was worried first time the pink stuff would freeze and blew out the lines again and learned it was a waste to do so. From then on I just left it in the system and never had a problem with anything damaged. I believe the RV antifreeze will turn slush but not freeze solid and expand like water does.

[THE MEEKER]

Originally Posted by che57vy

I believe the RV antifreeze will turn slush but not freeze solid and expand like water does.

Exactly correct! RV antifreeze does not freeze or expand. It is the last step after blowing the water lines with compressed air. I never had any issues in the past 23 winters.

I do however use 1 gallon more of RV antifreeze than required just to make absolutely sure everything is covered. Cheap insurance plus the peace of mind.

[spoon059]

Some people really overthink this process... It takes 2-4 gallons of RV antifreeze and 15 minutes of time. You need to run sufficient antifreeze through each outlet to ensure that it has pushed ALL the water out.



Paying $130 is highway robbery, in my opinion. That is $520 an hour for the repair shop!!! It would be cheaper to higher a lawyer to winterize your camper!!!


Its a simple process, and when YOU do it, you know if it was done right or wrong. OP, I would encourage you to spend $12 and buy 4 gallons of antifreeze and do it over again and be confident it's done properly. Youtube it, watch a video and be confident that it's done correctly.

[RVJayhawk]

We purchased a used 2017 Melbourne from a dealer earlier this year. Unfortunately much of what we were told was false. With cold weather approaching I decided yesterday morning to winterize the unit. We have owned numerous RVs and I figured I could complete the task in a couple hours. Two days later, I am finally finished! Here is what I found: The dealer did not replace the water filter. In fact there was no element at all. So I cut a disc our of some sheet aluminum to serve as a bypass to avoid having to fill the filter with antifreeze. Then I hooked up a hose to the inlet fitting and tried to siphon antifreeze. Pump ran but no suction. I elevated the hose and tried to pour in antifreeze with the help of a small funnel. After 30 minutes I managed to get about a cup of antifreeze into the system. I checked all the valves, faucets, etc. but could find nothing wrong. So I removed the pump which is a major nightmare on the Melbourne. (Thanks Jayco. What a stupid place to mount the pump and filter) I bench tested the pump and it seemed to perform but at a very weak rate. I called Shurflo technical and he asked if I had ever run the pump. I had not since all our camping was with water hook-ups. He said sometimes the little rubber disc valves can stick if they set for prolonged periods. I disassembled the pump and inspected it. Everything looked perfect. No cracks, pin holes, or other damage. I used some dish soap on the valves and massaged them a bit to make sure they were not sticking. Reassembled and second bench test. This time it pumped like a fire hydrant! I was sure I had fixed the problem so I promptly reassembled everything and tried again to siphon antifreeze. Not much better! Wow, I was stumped! So I decided to analyze the problem from a logical approach. I checked the short hose I was using and made sure it was not partially plugged. Then I removed and checked the screen on the inlet fitting. It appeared clean. I then noticed the tiny inline check valve behind the screen. That was the moment of enlightenment for me! That check valve is designed to open when outside water pressure is applied. The water pump is applying a slight vacuum on the inside of the check valve, but probably not enough to cause it to open properly. To correct that problem I turned the screen so it would hold the check valve open. Reconnected the hose and the pump now sucked a gallon of antifreeze in just a few seconds.

Although I have owned and winterized numerous RVs I have never run into this problem before. Maybe my experience will help someone else.

[norty1]

Originally Posted by RVJayhawk

……..snip snip...……….. Then I removed and checked the screen on the inlet fitting. It appeared clean. I then noticed the tiny inline check valve behind the screen. That was the moment of enlightenment for me! That check valve is designed to open when outside water pressure is applied. The water pump is applying a slight vacuum on the inside of the check valve, but probably not enough to cause it to open properly. To correct that problem I turned the screen so it would hold the check valve open. Reconnected the hose and the pump now sucked a gallon of antifreeze in just a few seconds.

Although I have owned and winterized numerous RVs I have never run into this problem before. Maybe my experience will help someone else.

What you describe is a common discussion point on this site. Sorry you had to find out the hard way. It happens on fifth wheels and travel trailers also but not all the time.

[unhcat]

If I have blown all the water from lines what is going to freeze? I have used this method on several RV s including up in NH. Never had a freeze up? Is this wrong? Do pour antifreeze in all traps.

[GABob]

Might be a dumb question, but I;'ll ask anyway. Purchased the RV in July, had the water filter in the bag with all the books given to me when they sent me off, but never installed. I've used an external mounted filter, and we use bottled water for drinking, coffee, etc anyway.


My question is...does the water filter holder under the sink fill at all without the filter in place? I ask in terms of winterizing as I've never futzed with it at all. IF it doesn't, I assume I can just let it go for winterizing.


Thanks!

[thenne1713]

Sorry, folks, (e.g. Roger R? and (some others) but your procedure sounds BACKWARDS? (Two of you) stated you "install pink stuff and then blow out"??? You (should) Blow out water and THEN install antifreeze to prevent dilution. The pink stuff is NOT concentrated like engine AF and is designed for full-strength use. Or am I reading it all wrong?

[Baldfacemt]

Our filter container does fill up with anti freeze, it is full of water normally and so you do have to drain it well then use a good anti freeze. We had an alcohol based anti freeze, bought at walmart, freeze in the jug and our dealer told us to alway use propylene glycol antifreeze. Ours was rated to 50 below for northern NH below zero temps. We do it ourselves and I am sure that every faucet hot cold shower low point drains,toilet and traps all have pink flowing through them and then we leave it there until spring. blowing it out after makes no sense to me either??

[Johnynorthland]

Hello everyone. I do have a question I hope a few of you can give me advice on. I will be up north for 10-12 days in December. Extended forecast states 30ish avage low temps. I will be storing my rig in a storage yard and I don’t think there is electric. Should I just blow out the lines or should I do a full winterize with antifreeze?

John

[BJR]

Originally Posted by thenne1713

Sorry, folks, (e.g. Roger R? and (some others) but your procedure sounds BACKWARDS? (Two of you) stated you "install pink stuff and then blow out"??? You (should) Blow out water and THEN install antifreeze to prevent dilution. The pink stuff is NOT concentrated like engine AF and is designed for full-strength use. Or am I reading it all wrong?

You are correct, the reason for blowing the water out is so the antifreeze is not diluted. That being said some of us like me are then also blowing out the antifreeze. I don't want it sitting and being absorbed by my lines if I don't have to. Should make the de-winterizing process go faster, besides.

[pconroy]

Originally Posted by unhcat

If I have blown all the water from lines what is going to freeze? I have used this method on several RV s including up in NH. Never had a freeze up? Is this wrong? Do pour antifreeze in all traps.

Lot's of folks blow their lines out w/ no problems.

Putting in the Pink Stuff is simply easier for me.

And I don't have to worry about the inevitable left-over water, after blowing out the lines, pooling in a low spot and freezing.