Water heater issue.

[Joey55]

Hi all,


I have an issue with my water heater in my Entegra Odyssey 30Z. The water quit getting very hot on my last trip and was only luke warm. When I got home I pulled the hot water heater and replaced the element with a brand new one. Still the water didn't get as hot as it once did. The gas part works fine it's just the electric side that has the issue. I measured 120V across the element. Next I replaced the thermostat on the right side with a new one ensuring the spring held it against the metal tank. Still the water does not get very hot on electric. Any ideas on what I can do next? Thanks.

[JimD]

The water heater may have separate thermostats for gas and elect. Mine does. Seems like a simple circuit where 120 volts goes through a thermostat and overheat thermostat then to the heating element. You may have to trace wires to see how the 120 volts is run.

[Joey55]

Hi Jim, there are only two thermostats, one is the high limit and the other is the regular thermostat. They power a relay that sends 120V to the element. I didn't replace the high limit thermostat but at this point I'm about out of options This heater has the stainless steel tank thus no anode rod. The electric I thought would be simpler than the gas side. Can you think of anything else to try or check ?

[JimD]

If it only fails on 120 volts you should be able to measure where it is being lost. Put the meter across the thermostat. If it measures 120 volts it is open at that time. If not hot enough then it would appear the thermostat is bad. You can actually test it in a bowl of hot water by measuring resistance across it. It will read open when it reaches its programmed temp.

These same tests can be done on the hi limit thermostat to see if it is opening long before it should. In a circuit like this you will measure 120 volts across the item that is open. Or you can trace from neutral to each item for the 120 volts.

[RedHorse1]

I believe the thermostats operate on 12V, not 120V. The same ‘stats service the gas and 120V systems. Testing them as suggested is a good idea.
Since you’ve replaced the heating element and the WH works on gas I’d suspect the control board. Might be some resistance in the 120 supply, maybe test with a hair dryer or something that draws a bit.
Let us know what you find.

[JimD]

It all depends on the model water heater you have. The Atwood apparently uses the board for control while the Suburban uses a separate 120 volt circuit.

What model do you have?