What do class c dually folks with auto jacks use for supplemental leveling?

[Sheltietreasure]

Please pardon me if there is already a thread on this. I couldn't find it.

I am told there is a difference in leveling systems for TT vs Motorhomes. They say we don't need any of those nice red Anderson contraptions. They are fairly expensive, but have a lifetime warranty.

We recently parked our Greyhawk in our own gravel parking area where there is a slight center gully to direct runoff. When we engaged the auto leveling jacks, the front tire came completely off the ground!

Since we plan to visit a lot of state parks, we assume we need some supplemental leveling tools. We also plan to camp for four or five weeks at a time in some areas and we want to put something under our tires to keep them off the dirt. And, we think we should put something under the jacks, even if we are on level ground.

Please comment on what you use and the pros and cons you have experienced.

If we could afford the weight, we were thinking of making our own "blocks" from stall mats. However, they are very heavy. We hear those cheap Walmart plastic blocks crack and break easily. Wood, is also heavy. We are pulling an enclosed cargo trailer with our trike, xpens, bicycles, spare, etc. so weight is of concern.

Also, if we put something under the four tires, is it bad to have the rear inner tires hanging and not touching the ground?

Thanks for all input!

[RanWal]

I never like having a wheel off the ground. It makes the coach move too much. I do carry a set of Hopkins leveling pads. https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-Towin...433290&sr=8-58
I have also found that in some cases the "auto" level protocall" causes the coach to be higher than it may need to be. I often reset and use the manual mode.

[CAG]

I am a little confused with your question. If you have a leveling system why would would want something else?

Have you looked at "SnapPads"?

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by CAG

I am a little confused with your question. If you have a leveling system why would would want something else?

Have you looked at "SnapPads"?

It's because these auto-level systems will allow the tires to come off the ground. Sometimes very high up. But it's NOT recommended to allow ANY of the tires to leave contact with the ground when leveling.

I have had this problem before, so I feel OP's pain. I carried over some of those "lego" blocks from my TT. They don't work so well with the MH. I've broken several of them.

They do make plastic blocks that are rated for MH use. For example, these claim to be "heavy duty": https://www.amazon.com/CampN-Levelin...dDbGljaz10cnVl

Snap Pads are a GREAT idea, and I can't wait to get some for my rig.

ETA: I took the "cheaper" route and bought a 4 pack of heavy duty rubber pads. Wish I had just spent a little more and got the Snap Pads, but I didn't know they existed at the time.

As far as one dually hanging in the air, I wouldn't do it. Not necessarily because I'm afraid of damage, but because it would decrease the potential stability of the rig.

A better idea would be to position the rig so that you can put the front tires on your blocks.

[CAG]

I can see where that might be a problem but I have never found a camping site, even while dry camping in the forest or desert where it was so unlevel that I had to add more than one, and at most two of the leggo blocks to my previous trailers that were without levelups. I guess if it is that bad I would see about raising the low side and then engaging the levelup. You can always operate it manually to get what you need rather than allowing it to do it's thing and raise a wheel.

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by CAG

I can see where that might be a problem but I have never found a camping site, even while dry camping in the forest or desert where it was so unlevel that I had to add more than one, and at most two of the leggo blocks to my previous trailers that were without levelups. I guess if it is that bad I would see about raising the low side and then engaging the levelup. You can always operate it manually to get what you need rather than allowing it to do it's thing and raise a wheel.

That's how I try to do it if I'm on a severely out of level site. Similar to a trailer; get the rig as level as possible using blocks, then drop the stabilizers. In my MH, I try to put the tires on blocks to get it as close to level as reasonable, then let the hydraulic auto-level tweak it to level it out. If it gives me problems, I just switch the panel to manual mode and do it myself.

The bottom line is that I don't want tires off the ground. IF ANY tires are off the ground, it MUST be the front tires since the E-brake holds the rear tires.

[JimD]

Was camping at a campground overlooking the ocean and wanted to get as close as possible. The ground was not level front to back and the jacks did not have enough normal lift to compensate so I added my Lego blocks and hoisted the unit up.

Camped that way for 3 nights with the tires flopping in the breeze with no problem other than having to add a little step stool to get up onto our regular steps. I would have liked to have put something under the tires to fill in the gap but didn't have anything.

The main reason I left it up in the air was for the view of the ocean out the front window. I also wanted to see just how capable the lifts were. I use them when changing oil and other under belly service and wanted to feel secure while laying underneath for short periods.

My son has a fifth wheel that we built blocks for out of 3/4" plywood. We cut a bunch of squares (may have been 14", 16", or 18", don't remember) and glued and screwed them into blocks about a foot high. Also mounted a carrying handle on them. Painted for protection and he uses them on every visit to the sand dunes we go to.

[Sheltietreasure]

Thanks to all. Yes, we have experienced many unlevel sites over the years...usually in our favorite places to camp! We always try to level with blocks first thing. Now that we have the auto levelers, we would do the same...manual level first, then auto.
Unless the site is fairly level to begin with.

I may have confused some folks. The front tire off the ground scenario was not intentional. We tested the auto levelers on our own parking area and quickly learned how they would lift things beyond safety to try and find level. We never want to do that again!

I was asking about having the rear inside tires off the ground if we put the other four tires on blocks or pads or something to keep the tires off the ground...not to level the RV. It sounds like those who commented on it think we should always have all six tires making contact.

I looked up the snap pads. Pricey. I couldn't find their weight. It looks like they are made of recycled rubber, just like our stall mat. Also, aren't they for just under the jacks? Whenever possible, we like the things we carry to be able to do double duty. At least if we make stall mat pads they can serve both the jacks and tires.

I will check out the other pads folks suggested too. Thanks!

Has anyone ever used those Anderson levelers? They won't work under the jacks for stabilization, but they seem like they are much better than guessing how many blocks you need and then shifting back and forth until you get it right.

[Sheltietreasure]

So, the Hopkins seems like a good design. Previously, we thought of making something similar out of wood we have on hand. Both are still of concern due to the weight.

The Camp'n pads seemed like the answer until I read the reviews...lots of cracking or breaking reported. Our 30x may be too heavy.

The Lynx system was one we have heard about. Does anyone have experience with them? The negative I heard was they may shoot out when the tires hit them. I expect that would be possible with similar products.

[Studiovette]

Having front wheels up is fine. Never lift the rear wheels of your MH. For the non believers. Call the leveling manufacturer and they will tell you the same!

[Florida Ranger]

LCI (Lippert) will tell you never have any of your tires off the ground ,after you have leveled you motorhome. I use 2x6 pieces of wood to put under my tires if ground is real unlevel then use hydraulic leveling leg system to finish leveling motorhome.

[Griswald One]

I have used the Legos without incident on my Greyhawk for 5 years. My preference is to put the stacks as close to the pads as possible to reduce the travel of the jacks and prevent them being over extended. Now that I have switched to a Bounder I will have to check the weight limits of my bricks.

The other thing I always carry is a shovel. Sometimes dropping a tire 3 or 4 inches below the grade can make all the difference in the world and prevent the tire opposite it having to be lifted off the ground.

[jeffro01]

We keep several bundles of these in our Greyhawk to make sure no tires are ever off of the ground.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Jeff

[Berjr]

We often are in un-level areas, I do not like to have the wheels off the ground either. So i took some 2x10 cut them into 18-24" pieces to use as landing pads and ramps if needed and use them to pre-level the rig then extend the jacks . just a note if you have to lift the wheel off then you have to add the same # of blocks under the jack at that point as well as the jack only extend so far. I also carry a couple of pieces of 4x4 as well they work well for ramping.

[Mzellers5]

Lippert has many YouTube videos on the subject. The opening sentence on one of them is "Manual Mode Is Your Friend. " I have found it to be true, but I stll have a few hunks of 2 x 8 for assistance.

[Baldfacemt]

We use a series of wooden blocks my husband cut. We have four 10X10 by 1 inch thick, four 2 inch and four four inch high blocks. We always use the 1 inch to provide support to the feet. Then hubby places one or more of the blocks to wherever he needs to level(front or back on both sides). This usually prevents wheels off the ground and also keeps the legs from extending out very far. It provides more support so less wobble and exposes less of the leg to the elements protecting the lubrication. They are not as light as the plastic ones but have worked great for us.

[dragonflys]

Bought from Amazon:
Beech Lane Camper Leveler 2 Pack - Precise Camper Leveling, Includes Two Curved Levelers, Two Chocks, and Two Rubber Grip Mats, Heavy Duty Leveler Works for Campers Up to 35,000 LBs (2) from Amazon. They work just like the the Anderson i had used for the TT but able to handle the weight of the motorhome. Don't have auto levelers and these do the job!!

[Click_here]

The first time I saw my leveling jacks lifting my rear wheels off the ground I quickly hit the power button to stop it. Then, using manual mode, I lowered them until they made contact and checked my bubble level on the counter top. It was barely 'unlevel' so I just lowered the front slightly and it was fine.

After that, I notched two 4x4 blocks about 18" long so they fit in a cross pattern, drilled a large hole in one end and threaded some heavy duty cord through and made a loop. We use some of those orange flat plastic pads and put the crossed 4x4 blocks on top, under whichever end (or side) is most unlevel and let the jacks sit on them.

Dont have any pix of it, but it works great for us. Never been anywhere that we needed more than the two and they fit in the back storage next to my door so pretty convenient. I have watched plenty of other campers using the legos or other such stackable leveling doo-dads and I am much happier with my homegronw solution in combo with the jacks.

Agree with others here, I would never leave any wheels off the ground, front or rear.

Having said that, I do use all four when changing my own oil, the rear for stability and the fronts up, so the front end is definitely off the ground when I am under there but it is for a pretty limited time.