Where is the "Battery Isolation Manager" on Greyhawk?

[Ann-Marie]

The shore power is keeping the house battery at about 13.3 volts but the starting battery is down around 12.2.

I actually own a company that manufactures bi-directional battery systems so I can easily replace it IF I COULD FIND IT .

[craigav]

Welcome to the Jayco Owner's forums.


In any case, the relay is under the hood directly in front of the steering wheel on the back firewall. But... it is not bi-directional and does not charge the chassis battery from the shore power. The easiest approach would be a small ~5 amp charger connected to the chassis battery. There are other options you could purchase and have installed such as a BIRD (bidirectional relay) and a few similar options but for many of us just another charger works well and could be permanently installed (such as a marine weatherproof 5a charger). ~CA

[Ann-Marie]

Cool, thanks Craig, I'll go hunt it down.

I've sold over 100,000 bi-directional battery charging/isolating switches over the last 30 years, mainly for marine but about 5% for RVs. I'll finally get to use one .

[craigav]

Originally Posted by Ann-Marie

Cool, thanks Craig, I'll go hunt it down.

I've sold over 100,000 bi-directional battery charging/isolating switches over the last 30 years, mainly for marine but about 5% for RVs. I'll finally get to use one .

I didn't mention it as the best solution is one that is automatic. However I keep a small jumper wire with two alligator clips and connect one side to the right relay's large terminal (goes to the coach battery) and the other to the right small terminal which engages the relay (the relay type is a continuous duty relay). That way when on shore power both the chassis and coach batteries are tied together and that keeps the chassis battery charged. I think somewhere in the forums here is a few pictures of what I am talking about. Basically it is similar to holding down the aux (emergency) start switch on the lower left side of the dash. I don't necessarily recommend this approach but it does serve my needs until I have time to do something different.

Another option, is just turn the ignition key on which will also tie the batteries together (engages the isolation relay), I have done that prior to using the jumper wire, but I prefer not to do that as doing so turns on more than just the relay, but something you could do every now and then and you should see the chassis battery voltage start climbing when the key is in the on position and you are plugged into shore power. ~CA

What year make\model greyhawk do you have?

[Ann-Marie]

Once I found the isolator with your help it only took 20 minutes to convert it to fully automatic. If either battery is on charge it connects them together otherwise they are totally isolated.

We have 2019 30ft Greyhawk.

[craigav]

Originally Posted by Ann-Marie

Once I found the isolator with your help it only took 20 minutes to convert it to fully automatic. If either battery is on charge it connects them together otherwise they are totally isolated.

We have 2019 30ft Greyhawk.

I am impressed good deal for sure. ~CA

[Glenn268]

I just read the spec sheet on the combiner 200. The last line is "do not eat" LOL

[Clydes]

So, if I read the description fo the Combner 200 correctly; this will charge the house batteries when the engine is running?

[Ann-Marie]

On our Greyhawk 30X there was a solenoid that was turned on by the ignition that connected the house and starting batteries together so that the alternator would charge the house battery but there was no way for shore power on the house battery to charge the starting battery.

The Combiner 200 can replace that solenoid and no longer needs the ignition control. It monitors both batteries and if it sees either battery is receiving a charge it connects them together so the other battery can share the charging current, otherwise both battery systems are isolated.

It doesn't connect immediately like the ignition solenoid, it waits for the battery receiving the charge to get to at least 13 volts of charge before sharing to the other battery. It monitors the load on charging source to make sure it is not overloaded and cycles off and on if needed to allow cooling time.

It does have the capability for forcing it on using the auxiliary starting button in the cab but I didn't connect that. To use it you have to hold the button down for at least 2 or 3 minutes to transfer charge from the house battery to the starting battery because the cables to the house battery are too small to start an engine.

[AverageGuy]

Ann-Marie, are you still in Beaufort?
Jim formerly of S/V Wind Angel. You won't remember me but I'm a good friend of Norm's.

[Ann-Marie]

Ooo sorry don't remember you, haven't seen or heard from Norm in donkey's years.

Yes still in Beaufort. We sold Hemingways restaurant 2 years ago, have 15 rental houses now and still have the electronics manufacturing although I would like to sell it so we can put HARVEY (RV) to good use.

[DNMakinson]

Ann-Marie

Please see my question under Class C about lack of charging of house battery by engine. Do you have any help for me?

DNM