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Old 10-13-2018, 07:34 PM   #1
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Winterize

Hello to all. Just wondering at what degrees should we winterize our RV. Also do you think if the RV is stored in a heated garage that we can just skip winterizing it. Thank you for your knowledge.
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Old 10-13-2018, 07:45 PM   #2
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I winterize if the temps are going to be low 20's F sustained.

Heated garage? Heck yeah - skip it.
If the temp never cracks below 32*F, I'd skip it.
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Old 10-13-2018, 07:54 PM   #3
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Hello to all. Just wondering at what degrees should we winterize our RV. Also do you think if the RV is stored in a heated garage that we can just skip winterizing it. Thank you for your knowledge.
In a heated garage above 32degF? I'd drain the water system and water heater and pour antifreeze into the P-traps. Why? Because I hate surprises in the spring or if something bad happens on a really cold, dark night and the garage heating system fails.

And, no, I don't wear a belt and suspenders.
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Old 10-14-2018, 11:42 AM   #4
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I have had 2 day power outages in Illinois when it was below zero.

Drain it, blow it out, a little pink in the drains. And if you want to bet $3 vs hundreds, put some pink through the lines with the pump.
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Old 10-15-2018, 08:42 AM   #5
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Hello to all. Just wondering at what degrees should we winterize our RV. Also do you think if the RV is stored in a heated garage that we can just skip winterizing it. Thank you for your knowledge.


Generally, if it is in a heated area it does not need to be winterized. However, where you live it gets below freezing a lot. If the heater fails, you are in trouble. If you will not be using the unit during the winter months, it would be cheap insurance to winterize it anyway. Why take the chance? Just saying !! Good luck with your choice.
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Old 10-15-2018, 09:01 AM   #6
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At a cost of under $10 and only a minimal amount of time, I would winterize it. Who knows, something might happen during the winter when you would want to get in the motorhome and take off quick. You wouldn't have to worry about the plumbing freezing up. Always be prepared.
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Old 10-15-2018, 08:14 PM   #7
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In the winter our 29MV is in a storage area which is part of a campground in sunny Bluffton, SC. Over the past several years I have stopped watching the news and weather as much as I used to, so one night last winter around 8PM I was flipping channels and just happened to see a news bulletin that the temperatures that night and for the next several days would stay below freezing. So DW and I grabbed the air compressor, the only gallon of the pink stuff I had, some tools, and headed to the MH, some 23 miles away. I fired up the genny, hooked up the compressor, blew out the water lines, and pumped the antifreeze through the system. DW was working on the interior, removing anything that would freeze or shouldn't be subject to freezing temps. After I was satisfied that everything was protected, including the valve on the toilet and exterior shower, and everything was buttoned up, we returned home around 11PM to thaw out, and I made a promise to myself that this would never happen again. I now keep 3 or 4 gallons of antifreeze at home, and at $3-4 per gallon and an hour or two of my time, it's worth it to me to winterize it as soon as the temps start dropping.
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Old 10-16-2018, 06:05 AM   #8
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I've got one last trip coming up at the end of the month. Between now and then, the temps are expected to flirt with freezing a couple times during the evening. I'm thinking I should blow out my lines to play it safe, but I'm not going to add anti-freeze yet as its only expected to be around 34/33 degrees.

I've never blown out my lines before. What's the process? Do I use the City Water settings in the dial center? Or do I use the Winterize/Sanitize dial settings? I know I'd use the later for anti-freeze but not sure about air.

What's the best way to do this guys?
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Old 10-16-2018, 07:58 AM   #9
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I've never blown out my lines before. What's the process? Do I use the City Water settings in the dial center? Or do I use the Winterize/Sanitize dial settings? I know I'd use the later for anti-freeze but not sure about air.

What's the best way to do this guys?
Jopopsy, I use the City Water setting, as that is the same as if there would be pressurized water entering the MH. I reduce the compressor pressure to about 25-30 psi and attach a fitting I made (male hose to compressor male) to the City Water inlet. After I manually drain the water heater, low point drains and fresh water tank, I fire up the compressor and start to open faucets, in no particular order. It doesn't take long to get the residual water emptied from the lines. Don't forget the toilet and outside shower and ice maker, if so equipped. I also open the water heater drain again during the air process to get all the water out. And I take out the house water filter and store it where it won't freeze. It's not a long or difficult process, especially if it's not extremely cold outside. I'm sure I'm forgetting something...good luck!
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Old 10-16-2018, 08:20 AM   #10
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Also do you think if the RV is stored in a heated garage that we can just skip winterizing it.
I would skip it in a heated garage. I would still open all faucets and low point drains to get the water out.

What happens if the heat in the garage goes out? Could it freeze in there?
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Old 10-16-2018, 05:52 PM   #11
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Jopopsy, I use the City Water setting, as that is the same as if there would be pressurized water entering the MH. I reduce the compressor pressure to about 25-30 psi and attach a fitting I made (male hose to compressor male) to the City Water inlet. After I manually drain the water heater, low point drains and fresh water tank, I fire up the compressor and start to open faucets, in no particular order. It doesn't take long to get the residual water emptied from the lines. Don't forget the toilet and outside shower and ice maker, if so equipped. I also open the water heater drain again during the air process to get all the water out. And I take out the house water filter and store it where it won't freeze. It's not a long or difficult process, especially if it's not extremely cold outside. I'm sure I'm forgetting something...good luck!
Worked great thanks for the tips. Only thing I did differently I waited to the end to drain the fresh water tank. I opened up the valve and drove off while it emptied.

Oh I also emptied the water pump glass/screen.

One more trip in 2 weeks and I’ll do the whole process again followed by the pink stuff.
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Old 10-16-2018, 06:37 PM   #12
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Not sure how cold Dayton gets. I would at minimum blow out the lines. This way if the heat goes out while your gone and the temp falls, you don't have huge pain of repair. Traps are easy to fix.
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Old 10-28-2018, 01:57 PM   #13
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If it was my luck in the heated garage the heat would stop working and freeze the trailer. Don’t have to worry if you pump the pink stuff.
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