Winterize Greyhawk using Utility Center

[ladder16]

Thank You Berjr !!

I was having the same problem as others getting the pump to prime. Tried several things including adding a clamp on the siphon hose that came with my Precept. As you suggested I flipped the screen and pushed the backflow preventer and the pump primed in seconds.

[ArthurH]

I’m a few years late to this discussion but we just bought a 2026 Redhawk 26XD with a utility center. We do not have a water filter under the bathroom sink. Our first try at winterizing yesterday was not successful because no anti freeze would siphon into to RV. I am going to try the reversing the screen on the city connection procedure. I’m confused about the water pump. Someone said turn on the 12V pump. Is there more than one water pump? I saw showed them turning on a pump inside the outside shower compartment. Our water pump switch is inside on one of the control panels by the door.

[MFalcon]

Hi ArtherH. At the utility center city water inlet, try pulling out the little screened washer and turning it around. The filter screen washer should be pointed or round on one side. Reinsert the screened washer so that the pointed part of the screen will push in the backflow preventer spring loaded valve on the city water connection. It has been my experience that the water pump is not strong enough to overcome the spring loaded valve so it can't syphon the antifreeze. If you turn the washer around then the pump should now be able to syphon the anti freeze out of the jugs.

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by ArthurH

I’m a few years late to this discussion but we just bought a 2026 Redhawk 26XD with a utility center. We do not have a water filter under the bathroom sink. Our first try at winterizing yesterday was not successful because no anti freeze would siphon into to RV. I am going to try the reversing the screen on the city connection procedure. I’m confused about the water pump. Someone said turn on the 12V pump. Is there more than one water pump? I saw showed them turning on a pump inside the outside shower compartment. Our water pump switch is inside on one of the control panels by the door.

There's only 1 water pump. On motorhomes there are usually 2 or sometimes 3 switches to activate that pump. One in the main control center, one at the outside shower, and sometimes one in the bathroom. Occasionally I've even seen them near the water control center. I only have the one by the door in the control center, and the one on the outside shower. Wish I had one in the bathroom though.

Important note: Be sure to turn your water heater valves to the "winterize" positions (bypass) and drain it before you begin. Otherwise, when you start pumping AF, it will go to your (6-gallon) water heater.

You should be able to turn the valves in the control center to "country fill", flip the sediment screen at the city water inlet, attach your short hose and place it in the AF jug, activate the pump, then open a faucet. Once you crack the faucet, the pump should begin pulling Antifreeze from your jug outside into the pipes. Then go around to each and every water outlet and let it flow until you see good pink AF coming out. Don't forget your outside shower, and your low point drains.

It may help to have someone lift the jug because as was already mentioned, these pumps are not all that strong, and they'll have trouble "lifting" the AF up into the rig.

It also may help to prime the water system on city water before you begin (after you bypass your water heater) so that the pump doesn't have to build pressure on empty pipes. Air doesn't compress as readily as water, and the pump will have an easier time "priming" against already pressurized lines. This will also ensure that you are physically able to get at least water into the rig and to the faucets.

Or you could forget all of this and use compressed air. We can get away with that here because there are VERY few freezing days, and even fewer when it doesn't get above freezing during the day.

[don_kleinschnitz]

I have a 26Y and I use the attached "winterizing" procedure. This procedure may be different for different models.

My RV has a pump switch in the external shower bay and at the power center. The one in the external bay is out of view in the upper left.

I use both air and AF in my procedure. It gets bitter cold here in Utah and I have not been brave enough to use just air although I think, done correctly it would work fine.

One thing that may not be obvious is to ensure that if there are valves on your internal filter they are open.
The first time I did this I was fooled by thinking they were bypass valves. They are not! They just turn off the main water so you can remove the filter without making a mess.

[pconroy]

Like Don, I put this together a few years ago so my wife could do the winterization steps. Step 4, is "flip the inlet screen" so the pump can overcome the checkvalve.


https://www.dropbox.com/s/cdpty2ayry...izing.pdf?dl=0


I have noticed that the checkvalve has loosened up over the years. Sometimes I don't need to flip it.

[ArthurH]

We bought our Redhawk 26xd used this summer and are trying to winterize it for the first time. I found the tip about flipping the screen but it still won’t siphon any antifreeze out of the bottle. The owner manual says use the hose that came with the RV. We bought ours used and there’s no hose. I got a short fresh water hose and cut one end but no luck. (Jayco customer service said the siphon hose that usually came with the RV is flexible.) I don’t know what to do to make this work. I’m trying to find a siphon hose online that looks right but so far no luck. I have an appointment with our dealer in a few weeks for a couple repairs inside the coach and might have to ask them to winterize the pipes.

[Johnynorthland]

Originally Posted by ArthurH

We bought our Redhawk 26xd used this summer and are trying to winterize it for the first time. I found the tip about flipping the screen but it still won’t siphon any antifreeze out of the bottle. The owner manual says use the hose that came with the RV. We bought ours used and there’s no hose. I got a short fresh water hose and cut one end but no luck. (Jayco customer service said the siphon hose that usually came with the RV is flexible.) I don’t know what to do to make this work. I’m trying to find a siphon hose online that looks right but so far no luck. I have an appointment with our dealer in a few weeks for a couple repairs inside the coach and might have to ask them to winterize the pipes.

If you have this type of manifold, (like my 2019 Redhawk 25R), Try the 1&4 “Sanitize Tank”position on you manifold, not the 2&4 “sanitize/winterize lines” position. Mine does not siphon on 2&4, it doesn’t engage the water pump. It will only work on 1&4

[ArthurH]

Originally Posted by Johnynorthland

If you have this type of manifold, (like my 2019 Redhawk 25R), Try the 1&4 “Sanitize Tank”position on you manifold, not the 2&4 “sanitize/winterize lines” position. Mine does not siphon on 2&4, it doesn’t engage the water pump. It will only work on 1&4

Thank you. This forum has been a godsend.

Ours does have that utility center on the outside. I have the levers set to 2 & 4 to winterize. I can hear the pump, but it's not priming or drawing in any antifreeze. We tried the method of opening the low drains as well. This is all new to me. How do you winterize the plumbing lines after you siphon antifreeze into the tank?

[Johnynorthland]

Originally Posted by ArthurH

Thank you. This forum has been a godsend.

Ours does have that utility center on the outside. I have the levers set to 2 & 4 to winterize. I can hear the pump, but it's not priming or drawing in any antifreeze. We tried the method of opening the low drains as well. This is all new to me. How do you winterize the plumbing lines after you siphon antifreeze into the tank?

I don’t totally winterize, I live in a warm climate, however, when I visit kids/grandkids for the holidays, up north, I empty everything completely, blow out my lines with my air compressor, then put 2 gallons of pink in each the black and grey tanks, thus filling the P traps in my shower and 3 sink drains that I have. I’ve never had an issue in the past 8 years I’ve done it this way, but in December the temps are not consistently below freezing, but that’s not a guarantee! Never put pink antifreeze in your hot water heater, make sure you turn the bypass valves. And if you have a whole house water filter, remove the cartridge. (I deleted my whole house water filter cartridge and only use the in-line type on my FW hose, we don’t usually drink the water in our tanks)

Let us know how you made out.

[Johnynorthland]

Originally Posted by ArthurH

Thank you. This forum has been a godsend.

Ours does have that utility center on the outside. I have the levers set to 2 & 4 to winterize. I can hear the pump, but it's not priming or drawing in any antifreeze. We tried the method of opening the low drains as well. This is all new to me. How do you winterize the plumbing lines after you siphon antifreeze into the tank?

And try position 1&4, and just because you turned the screen around on the hose inlet doesn’t mean the one way check valve is working. Remove the screen again and push the pin in with your finger, make sure it moves, it’s spring loaded, it could be stuck.

And lastly check your manifold lines with a schematic from Jayco. You never know if someone change that manifold, and connected the lines improperly. Or some people actually take the plastic manifold out go to Home Depot and make up a brass one. Just some more thoughts I’m having.

[ArthurH]

We live in Vermont. Our average temperature is below freezing all winter, so I don't want to take any chances.

Jayco suggested filling the freshwater tank with a few gallons might help it prime better. I don't know if that will work better than position 1 & 4. I'll have to try them and hope one of them works.

Thanks for the reminder about the hot water tank. I already bypassed that before I started trying to winterize the plumbing. I pushed the valve in with my finger before putting the screen back (backwards with the cone in) and it popped right back so that seems to be working.

We actually don't have any water filters that I am aware of. There is none under the bathroom sink which is where I've seen them on our model. We don't drink or cook with the water from the campgrounds. I'm not mechanically inclined and this is all new to me. What are manifold lines?

[ArthurH]

I have an appointment at our dealer for a few repairs in a couple weeks and I will ask them to winterize the lines for me if I need to. I will let you know how I make out with your suggestions.

[Johnynorthland]

Originally Posted by ArthurH

We live in Vermont. Our average temperature is below freezing all winter, so I don't want to take any chances.

Jayco suggested filling the freshwater tank with a few gallons might help it prime better. I don't know if that will work better than position 1 & 4. I'll have to try them and hope one of them works.

Thanks for the reminder about the hot water tank. I already bypassed that before I started trying to winterize the plumbing. I pushed the valve in with my finger before putting the screen back (backwards with the cone in) and it popped right back so that seems to be working.

We actually don't have any water filters that I am aware of. There is none under the bathroom sink which is where I've seen them on our model. We don't drink or cook with the water from the campgrounds. I'm not mechanically inclined and this is all new to me. What are manifold lines?

The manifold lines are behind the panel. That’s the photo I posted. See if there is radiator clamps on the lines going to the manifold, then you can rest, assured that someone remove those lines at some point and did something. They usually come from the factory with pex crimp on’s. But who knows these days with the heck the factory does. If you can’t get your head up in there and look under behind the panel, just take your phone and take a picture.

Yes, I would try priming in the system anyway you can, that was another thought I had, maybe it’s just air bound. If you have a potable/gravity inlet to fill your tank, try that. If not, and If you can access your water pump, takeoff the water pump inlet line and stick that end in a gallon of pink, I’m pretty sure you will bypass the manifold this way, but just incase set the manifold to 3&5, “normal” turn on the pump switch, open a fixture, that should definitely siphon.,

[Johnynorthland]

Here’s the manifold chart I have.

[Ttlanders]

Mine would work right half the time so I installed this. This is on suction side of pump and works great!

[pconroy]

Not only did I have to flip the screen to open the check valve, but I also had to make sure the siphon hose fittings were all 10000000% air tight. If it wouldn't siphon, I'd snug up all of the connections and often that would do the trick.


Flipping the screen is sometimes required because the check valve spring is too strong for the pump to overcome. Overtime, the check valve often loosens up and flipping the screen isn't necessary.


Lastly, I raise the RV AF jug up to about level with the inlet.

[don_kleinschnitz]

This is a drawing I created to help understand how my 26Y plumbing worked. Perhaps it can help with troubleshooting.

[Richiee23]

I ve tried multiple ways you guys have recommend to get the pump to suck antifreeze into my camper. The only way I can get the pump to suck antifreeze out of the jug is to leave the settings on city fixture set up on 2/6. Not sure what’s going on with my control panel. Anyone have the same issue ?

[norty1]

Originally Posted by ArthurH

I have an appointment at our dealer for a few repairs in a couple weeks and I will ask them to winterize the lines for me if I need to. I will let you know how I make out with your suggestions.

You may have some freezing weather before the dealer can get to it. Don't let it freeze and cause damage.