Winterizing

[gdetty1]

I tend to get dislexic about things and thought I would get help on the Forum. I own a 2010 Melbourne and winter is coming although I have one more trip scheduled. Last year was our first year and we had the RV Dealer winterize it for $100.00. After reading some posts I thought "hey that doesn't sound hard and it looks like Jayco has it set up to be easy." The only problem I read about was the pump not syphoning from the bottle of RV Anti-freeze. But it starts like this: I have the connections to blowout the system. So although there are 2 methods I thought blowing the lines is not a bad idea. Then Level RV, I have no inside water filter so that takes care of step one. But the water heater bypass valve. It would be my guess that the bottom switch in this photo is the waterheater bypass valve. I don't know what the middle and top are for. There's where I need some help. The botton switch I turn to off. The top two I leave alone. And this is after draining the hot water heater and opening the pressure valve. Then the next step is throwing the water-control switches to Sanitize/Winterize. Siphoning should occur. I read a post where someone said about filling the fresh water tank if siphoning doesn't take place. Is that the problem solver if siphoning doesn't happen? In my case "easy" is great until something doesn't happen. So is this easy for a Jayco Melbourne?

[Heady]

To bypass the hot water heater, you need to turn all three valves. You need to turn off (block) the two valves that go to the water heater, then you need to turn on (open) the valve on the bypass line. This allows water (anti-freeze) to still flow through the hot water connections, bypassing the water heater.

[Campergma]

My Greyhawk wouldn't "suck" up the winterizing fluid. I took it to my dealer and he showed me how he inverts the screen over the intake to push down the center tab. Works great now.

[OnTheGo]

Originally Posted by Campergma

My Greyhawk wouldn't "suck" up the winterizing fluid. I took it to my dealer and he showed me how he inverts the screen over the intake to push down the center tab. Works great now.

... would like to know more about the procedure the dealer did.

I don't understand what screen or center tab you are referring to.

[LI-Camper]

I would also like to know about the procedure to invert the screen. My Greyhawk is new to me and I have never winterized it yet. Thanks.

[FPM III]

My guess is that if you have a filter screen in your outside water inlet, you remove it, turn it around and insert it backwards so that the protruding side of the screen pushes against the check valve to open it. The only advantage I see in this is that only one person in required to do the final step of pumping the RV antifreeze into that part of the water line. Otherwise, you need two people: one outside to hold the check valve open while the other inside operates the pump. If this was the case, the same result could have been accomplished by simply opening any faucet rather than subjecting the check valve's filter screen to possible damage by using it in an unconventional manner.

You must have a valve open somewhere so there is no pressure in the water line when you prime the pump with antifreeze, otherwise, when you start the pump, it will pressurize the water line and reduce the amount of suction necessary to draw the antifreeze into the pump.

When I winterize (and I just did yesterday), I always begin pumping the antifreeze to the faucet that's the highest and/or furthest from the pump and work my way back. So, for my RV, the order is kitchen sink, bathroom sink, bathtub and toilet. Your sequence may be different, and with fewer/more faucets.

Running the antifreeze to the water inlet is always done last. You must, momentarily, open/close a faucet to depressurize the water line before performing this or you won't be able press in the release to open the water inlet check valve.

[clinic711]

I am also having issues with the city line (pump set to winterization) pulling/siphoning the antifreeze into the water lines from the container of antifreeze when set to winterization pump level on a Jayco Grewhawk 31FS. I get some hissing in the pipes when opening up the valves but not enough to draw the liquid threw...any others experiencing this and what did they do to over come it?

[knuts1]

here is a link on how the valves should look. http://www.airforums.com/forums/atta...1&d=1318950965