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Old 12-12-2018, 09:13 PM   #1
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Winterizing Coach battery in/out

I always had a TT and would Winterize by opening low water points, close off hot water tank, pump anti-freeze in lines, and remove the battery.
I now own a Jayco Melbourne 24K motorhome and I winterized the lines but still have the coach battery installed. It is plugged in so I assume I will be ok as long as I keep it plugged in all winter right? Should I switch the big battery disconnect switch if I leave it plugged in all winter or will that cut it off from the shore line and thus won't keep battery charged? (I'm in PA and it is really cold right now). Also, I am getting a cover for the RV for Xmas and was wondering if I can put cover on it and keep it plugged in or is that dangerous? If I do take out the coach battery...what does everyone do about the chassis battery, take that out too?
The coach battery has several wires going to the battery and all but one is black so if I take out the battery I will need to mark the wires for + and - ...seemed kind of strange they used black to go to neg and pos terminals.
Anyway, interested to hear what others do.
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Old 12-13-2018, 06:26 AM   #2
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I used a separate smart charger for both/each of my Class C batteries, left both in the unit and used the disconnect switch to turn "most" things off. The 1.5a chargers kept the batteries charged, ready for spring. With a full cover on, the wind and breeze will keep things ventilated w/o issue.
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Old 12-13-2018, 07:02 AM   #3
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trickle charger on chassis and house batteries left in
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Old 12-13-2018, 08:26 AM   #4
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The house battery will be fine and kept fully charged by the converter. I keep my chassis battery charged with a Battery Minder Jr. using a dashboard power port.
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Old 12-13-2018, 08:57 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Imazman View Post
I always had a TT and would Winterize by opening low water points, close off hot water tank, pump anti-freeze in lines, and remove the battery.
I now own a Jayco Melbourne 24K motorhome and I winterized the lines but still have the coach battery installed. It is plugged in so I assume I will be ok as long as I keep it plugged in all winter right? Should I switch the big battery disconnect switch if I leave it plugged in all winter or will that cut it off from the shore line and thus won't keep battery charged? (I'm in PA and it is really cold right now). Also, I am getting a cover for the RV for Xmas and was wondering if I can put cover on it and keep it plugged in or is that dangerous? If I do take out the coach battery...what does everyone do about the chassis battery, take that out too?
The coach battery has several wires going to the battery and all but one is black so if I take out the battery I will need to mark the wires for + and - ...seemed kind of strange they used black to go to neg and pos terminals.
Anyway, interested to hear what others do.
I'm also in n PA with a Melbourne 24K. Mine is covered with a trickle charger on each battery and the main cutoff switch turned off. I go in about every 4 weeks and run the generator (I just make sure my cover is clear of the furnace exhaust so I don't melt it).
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Old 12-13-2018, 02:27 PM   #6
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Does your unit come with a charge wizard? If so it will keep both the coach and chassis battery charged all winter. We have a 2019 jayco class c and i called tech. Support who told me to just plug in to shore power, no need to use batt. Maint.
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Old 12-14-2018, 06:54 AM   #7
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Thanks for everyone's comments. I will have to call the manufacturer to find out if it has a charge wizard...I kind of doubt it but worth looking into. Without the wizard I guess I will have to pick up a trickle charger for the chassis. I believe I can use my battery charger on the coach because it know to drop down the charging amps when it is fully charged.

Thanks again!
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Old 12-14-2018, 07:44 AM   #8
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I believe I can use my battery charger on the coach because it know to drop down the charging amps when it is fully charged.
Using a regular battery charger can get you into trouble. I blew up my tractor battery a couple of years ago by leaving a battery charger on it for a couple of weeks. This charger also reduced charging current as the battery became fully charged but obviously not enough. Be safe and go with a trickle charger.
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Old 12-14-2018, 08:11 AM   #9
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@hoppers4 oh that is good to know thanks I won't do that as an option.

@cherv I looked to see what converter I have...it is a Progressive Dynamics 4060K which says it has Charge Wizard but that doesn't seem to suggest it is necessarily hooked up to chassis battery...I think I still need to contact Jayco.
However, on a side note (and another thread) I was going to purchase a portable EMP/surge protector at $250 but the converter monitors for high and low input voltages!

Thanks
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Old 12-16-2018, 07:07 AM   #10
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@hoppers4 oh that is good to know thanks I won't do that as an option.

@cherv I looked to see what converter I have...it is a Progressive Dynamics 4060K which says it has Charge Wizard but that doesn't seem to suggest it is necessarily hooked up to chassis battery...I think I still need to contact Jayco.
However, on a side note (and another thread) I was going to purchase a portable EMP/surge protector at $250 but the converter monitors for high and low input voltages!

Thanks
/Z/
Here is a link to the thread mentioned above: https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f5/surge-protector-63314-4.html
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Old 12-16-2018, 08:32 AM   #11
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My bootleg schematics show the PD charge module connected to the house batteries, and the house batteries connected to the Battery Isolation Manager (BIM) that transfers the charge voltage (>=13.3VDC) from one side to the other (alternator to coach batts, then PD charger to chassis batts) - if the low side is at or below 12.6VDC. The BIM is also the wonderful device that allows you to start your rig when the chassis batteries give up ... and you press the magic button on the dash to connect the two battery circuits.

You can find this model on Precision Circuits website with a troubleshooting guide that is useful and explains most of its functionality.

Our rig has the PD power converter with their Charge Wizard feature. It seems to be a good system. We don't have AC power in our RV storage space so I have no data on its function or performance. I tended to pull the batteries and maintain them in my garage when no outings were planned for a few months - but you don't always know when that is until after the fact. I've since switched to Lithium (LiFePO4) which is way easier for me to maintain properly.
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Old 12-16-2018, 09:24 AM   #12
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...
However, on a side note (and another thread) I was going to purchase a portable EMP/surge protector at $250 but the converter monitors for high and low input voltages!
/Z/
EMS units are way more comprehensive and proactive than the power center - my PD4590 only shuts down on high voltage (>132VAC). I use a portable Surge Guard unit. Many Progressive Industries units are well regarded.
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Old 12-16-2018, 09:56 PM   #13
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Our rig has the PD power converter with their Charge Wizard feature. It seems to be a good system.
A couple of questions:

1) How does one verify the presence of the PD converter with the Charge Wizard feature? Where is the converter unit located in the coach? I realize this could be very model-dependent.

2) Also, where did you take the displayed picture of the Battery Isolation Manager, in the coach battery compartment somewhere, or in some corner of the chassis engine compartment?
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Old 12-17-2018, 05:13 AM   #14
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A couple of questions:

1) How does one verify the presence of the PD converter with the Charge Wizard feature? Where is the converter unit located in the coach? I realize this could be very model-dependent.

2) Also, where did you take the displayed picture of the Battery Isolation Manager, in the coach battery compartment somewhere, or in some corner of the chassis engine compartment?
My PD4590 is pictured below with a little access hole to the switch and LED CW mode indicator. Here's a link to PD's Power Centers.

The Power Center in our '15 Seneca is in the bottom panel of the wardrobe, exposed and facing the foot of the bed. It's below the wardrobe doors so it's kind of out of sight. That places it near the entrance of the AC power cable (shore power).

Our BIM is in the battery bay (driver's side), on the left-hand wall, toward the driver and the chassis batteries. It's the furthest back in a line of fuses, terminals, and some components I haven't identified. We have two #4 BLACK cables connected to the POS+ terminals of our coach batteries. It looks like one of those goes to the BIM so maybe one of your cables will lead you to yours. Or if someone presses the dash switch to connect the battery sets, you'll hear the solenoid engaging.
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Old 12-20-2018, 10:20 PM   #15
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The Power Center in our '15 Seneca is in the bottom panel of the wardrobe, exposed and facing the foot of the bed. It's below the wardrobe doors so it's kind of out of sight. That places it near the entrance of the AC power cable (shore power).
OK, I know the 110V breaker panel is below the wardrobe in the bedroom. There's another panel I couldn't get the cover off of next to it, so I'll take another look at both panels, and see if the Charge Wizard option exists.

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Our BIM is in the battery bay (driver's side), on the left-hand wall, toward the driver and the chassis batteries. It's the furthest back in a line of fuses, terminals, and some components I haven't identified. We have two #4 BLACK cables connected to the POS+ terminals of our coach batteries. It looks like one of those goes to the BIM so maybe one of your cables will lead you to yours. Or if someone presses the dash switch to connect the battery sets, you'll hear the solenoid engaging.

The newer Precision Circuits Battery Isolation Manager seems like the key component (description from user manual):

The Battery Isolation Manager (BIM) monitors the Battery Voltage of both the Chassis and Coach Batteries over long periods of time. If it senses a charging voltage, it connects the two batteries together. If the charging system is drastically overburdened, the batteries will be isolated, however, if the BIM sees a long term charging of both batteries it will allow the batteries to remain connected and allow the charging system to do its job. Once the batteries have reached a Float Charge state for one hour, the BIM will isolate the batteries to prevent overcharging, and will only reconnect the batteries for charging if one of the Battery drops to approximately 80% charge, and the other is being charged. This long term monitoring of the batteries prevents the annoying relay clicking that exists in simpler Isolation Modules today.
Sounds like I need to spend some more time under the hood of the Ford E450 chassis, with a helper pressing the cutover switch in the cab.

I went hunting in the coach battery compartment under the steps the other day, but only found the below stuff.
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Old 12-20-2018, 11:05 PM   #16
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I went hunting in the coach battery compartment under the steps the other day, but only found the below stuff.
I think the item in the lower left (relay, circuit board, solenoid) is the battery disconnect solenoid controlled by the switch just inside the cabin entrance. FWIW, my schematic says the smaller wires are red & yellow - ours look red & white in the pictures.
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Old 12-20-2018, 11:16 PM   #17
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I think the item in the lower left (relay, circuit board, solenoid) is the battery disconnect solenoid controlled by the switch just inside the cabin entrance. FWIW, my schematic says the smaller wires are red & yellow - ours look red & white in the pictures.

Yep, at this point my guess is your Seneca has the higher-end Precision Circuits #00-10021-000 BIM under the chassis hood, and my Greyhawk 30X has a different lower-end BIM sitting in the coach battery compartment. I'll have to take another photo from a better angle to see if I can get part numbers off my BIM/solenoid unit.
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Old 12-21-2018, 11:28 AM   #18
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If I have my coach plugged into shore power and my converter has a Charge Wizard, can I plug my trickle charger into a 120 outlet inside the coach and then connect the output of the charger to the cigarette lighter...the cigarette lighter is connect to hot when key is out? So basically charge chassis battery thru the cigarette lighter? The trickle charger is BLACK+DECKER BM3B 6V and 12V Automatic Battery Charger/Maintainer.
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Old 12-21-2018, 12:42 PM   #19
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If you have aux. Start button to left of steering wheel chassis batt is connected to coach batt. And should be charged by converter
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Old 12-21-2018, 02:42 PM   #20
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Yes, you can use the power port (cigarette lighter) on the dash. On my Greyhawk this port is always hot and feeds directly to the battery (fused of course). That's how I keep the chassis battery on my Greyhawk trickle charged since this older Greyhawk converter doesn't feed the chassis battery.
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