Winterizing Redhawk 24B

[drmike961]

While we are on the topic of winterizing does anyone know if ford puts the good stuff that won't freeze in the windshield washer reservoir or the cheap stuff that wont protect?? My manual is in my coach in storage.

[Johnynorthland]

Same question I asked last year. I called Jayco spoke to a tech and he told me it’s not winter washer fluid. It’s the regular washer fluid Ford put in all the vehicles. So I went to my local Walmart bought the concentrate below zero windshield washer fluid. I took about half out of what was in there and put it in.

[drmike961]

Good to know, thank you sir.

[RetiredOne]

Originally Posted by drmike961

While we are on the topic of winterizing does anyone know if ford puts the good stuff that won't freeze in the windshield washer reservoir or the cheap stuff that wont protect?? My manual is in my coach in storage.

Crap... something I forgot.. I've been topping off with Rain-X, but no idea what the dilution is and if it's protected. And, I put the Winter cover on today... well, that means opening up the front, pumping out some of the washer fluid, and putting in better stuff...

You guys need to stop finding me projects to do...

[pconroy]

You can always toss in a bottle of Rubbing Alcohol (70% or better) to buy you a little headroom.

[drmike961]

Originally Posted by pconroy

You can always toss in a bottle of Rubbing Alcohol (70% or better) to buy you a little headroom.

That's what I did because I could not see the dang reservoir to have any idea how much I would have had to pump out. I guessed that it was mostly full so I dumped alcohol in and ran it through the pump. Never owned a vehicle that you could not see the level of washer fluid.

[RetiredOne]

Originally Posted by pconroy

You can always toss in a bottle of Rubbing Alcohol (70% or better) to buy you a little headroom.

Actually, was thinking that, although my rig had gone through last Winter (at the dealer) with what Ford put in there with no issues.

Good thing you didn't suggest tossing in the 151... that would have been a crime .

[pconroy]

Originally Posted by RetiredOne

Good thing you didn't suggest tossing in the 151...

"You put your face over the left nozzle and I'll take the right! Now we just need someone to push the button!"

[arobinson6]

Originally Posted by RetiredOne

When I looked in there, that was the first thing I thought, too... What engineer thought mixing electronics and water was a good idea..


That's my attack plan, try to find a spot that doesn't require moving the slide out to service the water system.

Wondering if mounting the pump on the roof of the large storage bin, next to the water control panel would be a good option.

I live in central Texas , what I have done with my other two past RVs was to put a cup of anti freeze in each trap. So I thought I’d just take the filter out behind the drawers and leave it empty. Just use the one on the outside hose. Then just run the water in the spring till clear

[cherv]

that is exactly what I do. pump and antifreeze will push the water out of the empty filter canister

[arobinson6]

Thanks that’s what I’ll do, crazy how difficult they build these things! Like the outside valve stem on the dually tires! Can’t put an extension snd use the tire minder crazy people!

[arobinson6]

Originally Posted by cherv

that is exactly what I do. pump and antifreeze will push the water out of the empty filter canister

I could not unscrew the filter housing ! Is it ok to leave the filter in there? I never drink the water, I drink bottled water, I only use the parks water for showering and washing dishes.

[Camper_bob]

Every drop of water that enters your rig, whether directly to your faucets or into your fresh tank goes through that filter. So, I would find a way to get it open. I can tell you that mine doesn't look so good at the end of the season when I replace it.

If you're never going to use it, you MAY consider cutting it out and putting a "straight pipe" in its place. But that's assuming you really just cannot get it open.

I have considered putting in a bypass, similar to what you might find around your water heater, but just have never gotten the time or motivation to do that yet.

I intend to use mine, so I'm unwilling to remove it, but a bypass might be nice for winterizing purposes. My filter is also in a super convenient place, so replacing the filter is not really much of a chore at all. But if I ever decide to use AF to winterize (I'm in S. Texas, so winters are pretty darn mild for us and I can usually get away with using air), I'll take the filter out and put in an empty water bottle to take up the space in the housing.

[arobinson6]

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

Every drop of water that enters your rig, whether directly to your faucets or into your fresh tank goes through that filter. So, I would find a way to get it open. I can tell you that mine doesn't look so good at the end of the season when I replace it.

If you're never going to use it, you MAY consider cutting it out and putting a "straight pipe" in its place. But that's assuming you really just cannot get it open.

I have considered putting in a bypass, similar to what you might find around your water heater, but just have never gotten the time or motivation to do that yet.

I intend to use mine, so I'm unwilling to remove it, but a bypass might be nice for winterizing purposes. My filter is also in a super convenient place, so replacing the filter is not really much of a chore at all. But if I ever decide to use AF to winterize (I'm in S. Texas, so winters are pretty darn mild for us and I can usually get away with using air), I'll take the filter out and put in an empty water bottle to take up the space in the housing.

It has two valves, I decided to take out the drawer using a trick someone suggested, then I'm going to remove the face from the drawer and put hinges on it, kinda of like a fake drawer for laundry in a bathroom. This way it will be easy, I'm all about easy

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by arobinson6

It has two valves, I decided to take out the drawer using a trick someone suggested, then I'm going to remove the face from the drawer and put hinges on it, kinda of like a fake drawer for laundry in a bathroom. This way it will be easy, I'm all about easy

Remember, those 2 valves just close off the filter housing itself. They are designed so that you can close off the water system on either side of the filter housing so you can change the filter element without getting an unexpected shower/bath. If you close either one of those, no water (or AF) will flow into your unit.

[arobinson6]

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

Remember, those 2 valves just close off the filter housing itself. They are designed so that you can close off the water system on either side of the filter housing so you can change the filter element without getting an unexpected shower/bath. If you close either one of those, no water (or AF) will flow into your unit.

Thats what I was hoping , I'll put it kinda in a plastic bag so as not to get water everywhere.

[arobinson6]

Originally Posted by RetiredOne

Finally got the pink stuff into my rig, and found some interesting situations. I blew out all the lines the other day with my compressor, but didn't have enough time to pump the AF that day. Yesterday, I removed and bypassed the crappy location of that filter cannister, so it's history.

So, I had a few concerns that I couldn't get answered, so I went on a detective hunt. In following the black flush line, I felt there was some high/low freeze points, so I manually pumped some AF into it, to protect it.

Second, the water inlet to the water heater had a downward pitch, that wouldn't normally drain, and was a by-pass location, which also was a freeze point, so I got AF into that joint/fitting.

But, the biggest issue I found, and one I wondered about, was the water line that fed the water tank. This is a pretty long run, going from the water control panel in the rear, up to the water tank, and it runs up and down through the frame. So, there is definitely low points that trap water and I felt needed to be protected with AF.

In the process to fill that line, I saw what I think, is a big issue. The water tank has a big belly in it, trapping multiple gallons of water. I thought the tank was empty, since I opened the tank drain and nothing came out. My rig is sitting level in my driveway.

After pumping a half gallon of AF to the water tank, I expected some pink to start coming out that drain in a short while. Nope, but tons of clear water came out. So, I pumped in another quart or two. Still clear water coming out. Pump in another quart or two, yep, more clear water came out... I'm going WTF....

So after climbing underneath, I determined that the whole bottom of the water tank retains multiple gallons, even after the drain stops running. The bottom of the tank sags, big time.

This also allows water to lay both in the feed line/fitting and the drain line/fitting, which both are freeze points.

After pushing up repeatedly on that tank, I got at least 6 gallons of water mixed with a little bit of AF out the drain fitting. I didn't get all the water out, there was still some in the edges of the tank. Only then was I able to get a stronger solution of AF into the tank. I still think the AF/water in the tank is diluted, but for now, I think it's protected, but not down to -50.

I have to decide if I want to jack up or put the rig up on the lego blocks on the right side to try and get all the water out of the tank. It will also require some sort of center tank bracing, to keep that belly out of the tank.

This trapping of water also concerns me during Summer use. If the rig sits for weeks between uses, and I think the water tank is empty, in reality, there's at least a half dozen gallons sitting there fermenting in the heat.... NOT a good situation.

To finish all the pink injection, and protect all the areas of concern, took a little over 6 gallons of AF.

When you say water tanks do you mean fresh water tank or city?

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by arobinson6

When you say water tanks do you mean fresh water tank or city?

He's talking about the fresh holding tank.

And the problem with "growing stuff" in the tank with what's leftover is real; I just went through it. Got green stuff in my tank; don't know if it will ever go away completely. I'd like to put an endoscope in there to see exactly what I've got, but I don't have a scope yet... I ended up treating with a strong bleach solution. And being glad we don't drink that water...

As for the lines FROM the tank, I think if you run the pump on "normal", it should suck most of the water out of that line? Of course, there may still be some in the low points of that long line run you talked about though. So long as the pickup entering the tank is sucking air, air should get into that line, and the pump should pull the water out. Potential problem if you move the rig and that leftover 6 gallons sloshes into that pickup line too.

I wonder if you'd be able to re-route your pickup line to give it enough slope to drain whatever's left back into the tank?

Also, the hose will flex with freezing, the fittings won't, so I would focus on making sure there's no water in the fittings. And that leftover in the belly won't hurt anything if it freezes, again so long as it's not in the fittings.

6 gallons seems like too much to me...? Sometimes I'm glad I don't live where there are significant freezes. Just don't ask me when it's 114 in August with high humidity...

[arobinson6]

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

He's talking about the fresh holding tank.

And the problem with "growing stuff" in the tank with what's leftover is real; I just went through it. Got green stuff in my tank; don't know if it will ever go away completely. I'd like to put an endoscope in there to see exactly what I've got, but I don't have a scope yet... I ended up treating with a strong bleach solution. And being glad we don't drink that water...

As for the lines FROM the tank, I think if you run the pump on "normal", it should suck most of the water out of that line? Of course, there may still be some in the low points of that long line run you talked about though. So long as the pickup entering the tank is sucking air, air should get into that line, and the pump should pull the water out. Potential problem if you move the rig and that leftover 6 gallons sloshes into that pickup line too.

I wonder if you'd be able to re-route your pickup line to give it enough slope to drain whatever's left back into the tank?

Also, the hose will flex with freezing, the fittings won't, so I would focus on making sure there's no water in the fittings. And that leftover in the belly won't hurt anything if it freezes, again so long as it's not in the fittings.

6 gallons seems like too much to me...? Sometimes I'm glad I don't live where there are significant freezes. Just don't ask me when it's 114 in August with high humidity...

I never boondock, or use my fresh water tank, however in the spring I put a small amount of bleach and sanitize it. I also use this fresh water spray stuff you spray in the sinks to keep all fresh. Today I am tackling the removal of the drawer to get to the water filter, then I will velcro the face of the drawer back on for easy access, pictures to follow.

[Jagiven]

Originally Posted by arobinson6

I could not unscrew the filter housing ! Is it ok to leave the filter in there? I never drink the water, I drink bottled water, I only use the parks water for showering and washing dishes.

To follow up with what CamperBob was saying. You need to get that filter housing opened up. couple reasons;

1. The filter over time will plug up and you will loose water flow to all items inside your MH, shower, toilet, sinks, etc.. This filters both the city water connection and any water pumped from the FW tank. Eventually you will loose water pressure.
   
2. I suspect you get hard freezes at your place. If the housing if full of water and it freezes solid, it will rupture. Big mess. Even if you winterize with compressed air, I bet a lot of water will drip out of the filter media, to the base of the housing and also could cause a rupture.
   
3. If your winterize with RV antifreeze, it will mix with water, diluting the protectiveness of the antifreeze. So you will need a lot more antifreeze to displace the water. In the spring, you will have to flush the system for a crazy amount of time to get the residual antifreeze out of all the pours of the filter. Nice part, RV antifreeze is nontoxic. But it will be trace amount in your dishwater and shower water for a long time.

Best thing to do, is empty it. If you do not want it, cut it out, and bypass it. In the future if you want filtered water, install a filter on your inlet hose.