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Old 09-17-2018, 09:17 PM   #11
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Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Central
Posts: 31
Originally Posted by jimtrvl917 View Post
So, sure enough, I went out and checked the bolts as suggested. At least one of them just spins, so I am sure this is an issue. Once the monsoons end (the remnants of Hurricane Florence), I'll be drilling out the old bolts and replace them on both bunks. I'll also caulk anything that isn't moving! Is there a reason people suggest using Dicor sealant versus a standard silicone sealant for these sorts of repairs?
Yes, silicone is less than perfect when it comes to seal and bond, which are the 2 things you need for it to be water tight. Many say it's ok to use it, but I've never had it seal and last so I don't use anything but Dicor, and Eternabond tape on my rig.

Replace all the bolts, even if they aren't spinning yet, they are likely exposed, and time will show the result. With the open hole put as much sealant into the cavity as possible, then install the bolts wet. Clean up after, but don't be using too little.

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Old 09-18-2018, 05:01 AM   #12
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Here are some sources:

2011 351RLTS Eagle, Mor/Ryde suspension & pin box
06 F350 Lariat PSD, SRW, LB, CC, EGR delete kit, 16K DrawTite hitch, Timbrens, TST TPMS
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Old 10-27-2018, 09:14 AM   #13
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Ashland
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So, I replaced the bolts for the bunk ends, I caulked all the holes before replacing them as well, I replaced the seals on all the storage doors, re-caulked the seam where the roof meets the front portion, and then I dried out the front storage area with a space heater for the better part of a week. It rained last night, and when I checked the storage area, it was damp again! So, before I torch this thing, is anyone aware of what else might be the source of the water seepage?
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Old 03-12-2019, 08:26 AM   #14
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Location: Milwaukee/Madison, WI area
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I stay away from dicor sealant and any silicine based. The dicor doesnt seem sealed enough on the edges. Look into using duralink. It flexes better with the trailer.

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