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Old 06-30-2018, 03:41 PM   #1
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Any Sani Con Turbo Reviews

Anyone with the Sanicon Turbo system on a Seismic that can list some pros and cons?
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Old 07-02-2018, 08:58 AM   #2
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I have the Sanicon system on my Eagle 321RSTS. While we've only owned it for 2 months now, in this short time I can say that I love the Sanicon system. The small permanently attached hose is very easy to work with and it empties the tanks very quickly. When I'm done pumping the tanks out I lift the hose to drain it out then put the cap back on and push the hose back in the compartment, super easy. The only negative I see is I no longer have the clear elbow to see when I'm done flushing the black tank. So I might periodically dump and flush with the 3" hose and clear elbow to gauge how things are going.
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Old 07-02-2018, 09:48 AM   #3
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My 2018 Seneca came with the Sani-con and this is my first experience with one. Main issue I have found is my unit is permanently mounted and everything drains into a box the the sani-con is inside so you have an option to manually dump with the stinky slinky or pump it out. Unless you completely flush the box out several times, residue settles in the box and while driving makes its way into the sani-con hose and starts smelling. I am considering just removing the whole unit as in 30 years of RVing I have never had to pump to a drain and I realy dont like sewage under pressure. I really dont see any advantage to these units other that future problems. I have tried it a few times but have gone back to manual dumping, that way I can see when the black tanks are flushed clean.
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Old 07-02-2018, 12:37 PM   #4
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Rustynuts, it sounds like my 2018 Eagle 321 is plumbed differently than your Seneca. My Sanicon is also permanently installed but the pipe coming from the tanks has a Y-connector just before the Sanicon pump. One leg of the Y goes to the pump and the other is for the standard 3" dump connection. Each leg of the Y has a gate valve to select which dump method you plan to use. This prevents any settling in the pump and allows for pump removal if needed.

I understand your concern over pressurized sewage. I make sure the connector is firmly attached to the dump station pipe before I hit the switch. I have visions of the hose being propelled out of the pipe by the thrust of the dumping waste. But in reality there probably not enough thrust for that to happen (but I'm not going to take the chance).
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Old 07-27-2018, 01:48 PM   #5
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the 2nd time I used mine on my 2018 White Hawk the hose from the pump to the box split spraying black water all over the bottom of the trailer. I went to the local Jayco dealer and got another hose, put it on and within 15 seconds that hose split as well. Back to the dealer they tell me they put another hose on it I will see if this is any better, im thinking of removing it and eliminating the "****" spray from occurring again,,,,
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Old 11-26-2018, 08:28 PM   #6
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I have one but have only used it a few times. It’s great for pumping grey water uphill to a tote in your pickup bed. I used it a couple of times driveway dumping after a trip without hookups. It was convenient since everything stays hooked up.

The worst part about it is winterizing. Living in Texas I typically just blow out water lines and add a couple cups of antifreeze in each p trap as we camp monthly during the winter. The only way to winterize the sanicon is to dump a couple of gallons down an empty grey tank and pump it into the sanicon.

It’s the hardest thing to winterize on my trailer.
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Old 12-03-2018, 08:21 AM   #7
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I don’t have a SaniCon but I use a Sewer Solution which is a similar concept. After 5 years I’ve had no issues with it. The big differences are my SS has no moving parts, the discharge hose is clear and it uses a water jet instead of an electric pump.
The only downsides I’ll admit to is that it does use more water (the water jet) than a slinky or sanicon, it’s a bit slower and since it uses water it probably would not be convenient at a park dump but we don’t dry camp so it’s fine.
I carry 3 10’ dump hoses but most times a single section is all I need and it will pump uphill but probably limited to a foot or so.
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Old 12-03-2018, 08:33 AM   #8
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The stock hose is incredible, very forgiving and easy to store. Winterized twice now and adds just a bit of time. Only negative is that I wish that shutoff valve was easier to access without it being in the middle.

Good tip on uphill transfers to a truck bed.
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Old 03-03-2019, 08:39 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jace817 View Post
I have one but have only used it a few times. Itís great for pumping grey water uphill to a tote in your pickup bed. I used it a couple of times driveway dumping after a trip without hookups. It was convenient since everything stays hooked up.

The worst part about it is winterizing. Living in Texas I typically just blow out water lines and add a couple cups of antifreeze in each p trap as we camp monthly during the winter. The only way to winterize the sanicon is to dump a couple of gallons down an empty grey tank and pump it into the sanicon.

Itís the hardest thing to winterize on my trailer.
I winterize mine by unscrewing the large cap on the end and pouring about 1/2 to 3/4 gallon of antifreeze into the cap. Then gradually lift the hose so it starts running down toward the pump. Takes all of 5 to 10 minutes!
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Old 03-10-2019, 06:10 PM   #10
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I have the Sani-Con on our 2018.5 Seneca. I added a gate valve this pasta week to solve the leaky system which fills up the hose as described by others. Common problem. There are a couple threads out there that describe different solutions. You will also hear about problems with hose leaks. I have not had a problem with my hose but after reading all the pin hole spray issues I am going to be very careful where I drag the hose. So my system works okay and I use it. Its quick to set up and use, faster the the old message. I don't hook mine up until its time to leave the park. If my Seneca didn't have it installed I would not buy one.
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Old 03-10-2019, 07:07 PM   #11
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I finally just removed mine. I had removed the hose and capped it off as I never used it and still when I opened that bay door I could smell sewer. 2 trips with it removed and no more smell. I really donít see any advantage to them unless for some reason you need to pump uphill....but in 30 years of having an rv, I have never had to do that.
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Old 07-25-2019, 07:53 AM   #12
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Added nylon cover for protection of hose

Had ours for two years on an Eagle HT 27 RLTS - I do like the simpler and less time process for hookups; have had concern on hose blowing and had one blow with grey water during attempted uphilll dump into some trees - any number of factors caused the blow - too much incline, too small of hose pushing through, as well as weak spot in hose.
With new hose, I added a nylon hose cover to add protection from the hose wiggling on the ground and gravel, as well as being a "trap" in case a hose does blow.
The cover I used is https://www.amazon.com/Tompkins-Indu.../dp/B016ZZU95Y, thanks to recommendation by Erik at LivinLite.net

It is not cheap, but it adds a layer of protection to the hose. I cut about four feet off of the end of the nylon wrap (21 ft to equal hose expansion length), and then slowly threaded the hose through the cover - added zip tie to the end of hose but let loose at RV connection. It bunches up to allow for hose expansion - it still fits in the storage box, just a little tighter.
Attached a couple pictures:




Looking for a clear viewing solution to add to the end of the hose - clear 1 1/2 inch diameter hose has been hard to find without buying 10 ft of it.
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Old 07-25-2019, 08:22 AM   #13
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Never wanted one but it was already on our trailer when purchased. I use it for all of our short 3 or 4 day trips and after 2 years have had no problems with it. If I'm somewhere for a week or longer I still hook up the stinky. I like it and use it more than I though I would.
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Old 07-25-2019, 11:29 AM   #14
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I tried it once. I agree a clear fitting would be nice. I was just trying to listen to the sound of the pump to tell me itís done. Wouldíve been easier to pull a handle and go back into the AC vs waiting in the hot sun listening to the pump.
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Old 06-18-2020, 06:35 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JStrifler View Post
Had ours for two years on an Eagle HT 27 RLTS - I do like the simpler and less time process for hookups; have had concern on hose blowing and had one blow with grey water during attempted uphilll dump into some trees - any number of factors caused the blow - too much incline, too small of hose pushing through, as well as weak spot in hose.
With new hose, I added a nylon hose cover to add protection from the hose wiggling on the ground and gravel, as well as being a "trap" in case a hose does blow.
The cover I used is https://www.amazon.com/Tompkins-Indu.../dp/B016ZZU95Y, thanks to recommendation by Erik at LivinLite.net

It is not cheap, but it adds a layer of protection to the hose. I cut about four feet off of the end of the nylon wrap (21 ft to equal hose expansion length), and then slowly threaded the hose through the cover - added zip tie to the end of hose but let loose at RV connection. It bunches up to allow for hose expansion - it still fits in the storage box, just a little tighter.
Attached a couple pictures:




Looking for a clear viewing solution to add to the end of the hose - clear 1 1/2 inch diameter hose has been hard to find without buying 10 ft of it.

How tight did the hose fit in the sleeve? The one you got is out of stock. I got the next size up; 2.5"...I have not unrolled it yet. Looks way too wide! Your thoughts?
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Old 06-18-2020, 07:01 PM   #16
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How tight did the hose fit in the sleeve? The one you got is out of stock. I got the next size up; 2.5"...I have not unrolled it yet. Looks way too wide! Your thoughts?
I wouldn't go to the extent of placing the hose within a protective hose. I carry a spare hose for two reasons: 1. If the original fails.........have had it for over a year and still in good condition. 2. On a few occasions, the sewer dump could not be reached with one hose, rare but a PITA when you can't reach it.

I wish Thetford would come up with an end connection that would simply screw onto the original one and be able to just push into the sewer connection. On a few occasions I've run into the problem of not being able to screw the end into the pipe either because the threads are worn......... or there are no threads......... or the sewer in recessed so you can't get it threaded...... or there is an obstruction that prevents you from getting a full turn or two to get it threaded.
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