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06-30-2018, 03:41 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: French Settlement
Posts: 88
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Any Sani Con Turbo Reviews
Anyone with the Sanicon Turbo system on a Seismic that can list some pros and cons?
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07-02-2018, 08:58 AM
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#2
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Yorktown
Posts: 19
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I have the Sanicon system on my Eagle 321RSTS. While we've only owned it for 2 months now, in this short time I can say that I love the Sanicon system. The small permanently attached hose is very easy to work with and it empties the tanks very quickly. When I'm done pumping the tanks out I lift the hose to drain it out then put the cap back on and push the hose back in the compartment, super easy. The only negative I see is I no longer have the clear elbow to see when I'm done flushing the black tank. So I might periodically dump and flush with the 3" hose and clear elbow to gauge how things are going.
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07-02-2018, 09:48 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Oregon Coast
Posts: 3,200
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My 2018 Seneca came with the Sani-con and this is my first experience with one. Main issue I have found is my unit is permanently mounted and everything drains into a box the the sani-con is inside so you have an option to manually dump with the stinky slinky or pump it out. Unless you completely flush the box out several times, residue settles in the box and while driving makes its way into the sani-con hose and starts smelling. I am considering just removing the whole unit as in 30 years of RVing I have never had to pump to a drain and I realy dont like sewage under pressure. I really dont see any advantage to these units other that future problems. I have tried it a few times but have gone back to manual dumping, that way I can see when the black tanks are flushed clean.
__________________
Brian & Jeannie
2018.5 Seneca 37RB with to many mods to list
2015 Jeep JKU Rubicon
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07-02-2018, 12:37 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Yorktown
Posts: 19
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Rustynuts, it sounds like my 2018 Eagle 321 is plumbed differently than your Seneca. My Sanicon is also permanently installed but the pipe coming from the tanks has a Y-connector just before the Sanicon pump. One leg of the Y goes to the pump and the other is for the standard 3" dump connection. Each leg of the Y has a gate valve to select which dump method you plan to use. This prevents any settling in the pump and allows for pump removal if needed.
I understand your concern over pressurized sewage. I make sure the connector is firmly attached to the dump station pipe before I hit the switch. I have visions of the hose being propelled out of the pipe by the thrust of the dumping waste. But in reality there probably not enough thrust for that to happen (but I'm not going to take the chance).
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07-27-2018, 01:48 PM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Fruita
Posts: 6
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the 2nd time I used mine on my 2018 White Hawk the hose from the pump to the box split spraying black water all over the bottom of the trailer. I went to the local Jayco dealer and got another hose, put it on and within 15 seconds that hose split as well. Back to the dealer they tell me they put another hose on it I will see if this is any better, im thinking of removing it and eliminating the "****" spray from occurring again,,,,
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11-26-2018, 08:28 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: DFW
Posts: 135
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I have one but have only used it a few times. It’s great for pumping grey water uphill to a tote in your pickup bed. I used it a couple of times driveway dumping after a trip without hookups. It was convenient since everything stays hooked up.
The worst part about it is winterizing. Living in Texas I typically just blow out water lines and add a couple cups of antifreeze in each p trap as we camp monthly during the winter. The only way to winterize the sanicon is to dump a couple of gallons down an empty grey tank and pump it into the sanicon.
It’s the hardest thing to winterize on my trailer.
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12-03-2018, 08:21 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Missouri City, The Republic of Texas
Posts: 5,063
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I don’t have a SaniCon but I use a Sewer Solution which is a similar concept. After 5 years I’ve had no issues with it. The big differences are my SS has no moving parts, the discharge hose is clear and it uses a water jet instead of an electric pump.
The only downsides I’ll admit to is that it does use more water (the water jet) than a slinky or sanicon, it’s a bit slower and since it uses water it probably would not be convenient at a park dump but we don’t dry camp so it’s fine.
I carry 3 10’ dump hoses but most times a single section is all I need and it will pump uphill but probably limited to a foot or so.
__________________
Cheers,
T_
2013 F-350 CC SB 2WD 6.7PS
2013 Eagle Premier 351 RLTS
-SOLD- 2012 X23B
-SOLD- 2003 Ford Expedition 5.4, Bilstein shocks
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12-03-2018, 08:33 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: West Chicago
Posts: 552
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The stock hose is incredible, very forgiving and easy to store. Winterized twice now and adds just a bit of time. Only negative is that I wish that shutoff valve was easier to access without it being in the middle.
Good tip on uphill transfers to a truck bed.
__________________
2019 F250, gas, 4.30
2017 29RKS
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03-03-2019, 08:39 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Natalbany Creek Campground, Amite City, LA
Posts: 3,244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jace817
I have one but have only used it a few times. It’s great for pumping grey water uphill to a tote in your pickup bed. I used it a couple of times driveway dumping after a trip without hookups. It was convenient since everything stays hooked up.
The worst part about it is winterizing. Living in Texas I typically just blow out water lines and add a couple cups of antifreeze in each p trap as we camp monthly during the winter. The only way to winterize the sanicon is to dump a couple of gallons down an empty grey tank and pump it into the sanicon.
It’s the hardest thing to winterize on my trailer.
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I winterize mine by unscrewing the large cap on the end and pouring about 1/2 to 3/4 gallon of antifreeze into the cap. Then gradually lift the hose so it starts running down toward the pump. Takes all of 5 to 10 minutes!
__________________
AL & JANET KRUEBBE
2019 PINNACLE 37RLWS
2018 NORTH POINT 315RLTS (TRADED)
2017 RAM 3500 DRW DIESEL/AISIN 4.10 AIR BAGS
B&W COMPANION TURN OVER BALL HITCH
Formerly from Sequim, WA
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03-10-2019, 06:10 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Oceanside
Posts: 230
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I have the Sani-Con on our 2018.5 Seneca. I added a gate valve this pasta week to solve the leaky system which fills up the hose as described by others. Common problem. There are a couple threads out there that describe different solutions. You will also hear about problems with hose leaks. I have not had a problem with my hose but after reading all the pin hole spray issues I am going to be very careful where I drag the hose. So my system works okay and I use it. Its quick to set up and use, faster the the old message. I don't hook mine up until its time to leave the park. If my Seneca didn't have it installed I would not buy one.
__________________
Gary & Jean
2018.5 Seneca
2021 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon 4xe - Ready Brute
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03-10-2019, 07:07 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Oregon Coast
Posts: 3,200
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I finally just removed mine. I had removed the hose and capped it off as I never used it and still when I opened that bay door I could smell sewer. 2 trips with it removed and no more smell. I really don’t see any advantage to them unless for some reason you need to pump uphill....but in 30 years of having an rv, I have never had to do that.
__________________
Brian & Jeannie
2018.5 Seneca 37RB with to many mods to list
2015 Jeep JKU Rubicon
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07-25-2019, 07:53 AM
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#12
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Brownsburg
Posts: 2
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Added nylon cover for protection of hose
Had ours for two years on an Eagle HT 27 RLTS - I do like the simpler and less time process for hookups; have had concern on hose blowing and had one blow with grey water during attempted uphilll dump into some trees - any number of factors caused the blow - too much incline, too small of hose pushing through, as well as weak spot in hose.
With new hose, I added a nylon hose cover to add protection from the hose wiggling on the ground and gravel, as well as being a "trap" in case a hose does blow.
The cover I used is https://www.amazon.com/Tompkins-Indu.../dp/B016ZZU95Y, thanks to recommendation by Erik at LivinLite.net
It is not cheap, but it adds a layer of protection to the hose. I cut about four feet off of the end of the nylon wrap (21 ft to equal hose expansion length), and then slowly threaded the hose through the cover - added zip tie to the end of hose but let loose at RV connection. It bunches up to allow for hose expansion - it still fits in the storage box, just a little tighter.
Attached a couple pictures:
Looking for a clear viewing solution to add to the end of the hose - clear 1 1/2 inch diameter hose has been hard to find without buying 10 ft of it.
__________________
John and Beth
(and Jaydyn)
2015 Sprinter BHS 311 (seasonal parked in MI)
2018 Eagle HT 27.5 RLTS (the one we pull)
2015 Ford F150 3.5L Ecoboost/tow package
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07-25-2019, 08:22 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Palmetto
Posts: 1,058
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Never wanted one but it was already on our trailer when purchased. I use it for all of our short 3 or 4 day trips and after 2 years have had no problems with it. If I'm somewhere for a week or longer I still hook up the stinky. I like it and use it more than I though I would.
__________________
2017 Jayco 377rlbh (sold)
2021 Grand Design 351MR
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07-25-2019, 11:29 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: DFW
Posts: 2,309
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I tried it once. I agree a clear fitting would be nice. I was just trying to listen to the sound of the pump to tell me it’s done. Would’ve been easier to pull a handle and go back into the AC vs waiting in the hot sun listening to the pump.
__________________
2017 Eagle HT 26.5BHS Sold
2019 Eagle 321RSTS Sold
2024 Grand Design 310GK
2024 Chevy 3500HD DRW
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06-18-2020, 06:35 PM
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#15
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: on-the-road
Posts: 87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JStrifler
Had ours for two years on an Eagle HT 27 RLTS - I do like the simpler and less time process for hookups; have had concern on hose blowing and had one blow with grey water during attempted uphilll dump into some trees - any number of factors caused the blow - too much incline, too small of hose pushing through, as well as weak spot in hose.
With new hose, I added a nylon hose cover to add protection from the hose wiggling on the ground and gravel, as well as being a "trap" in case a hose does blow.
The cover I used is https://www.amazon.com/Tompkins-Indu.../dp/B016ZZU95Y, thanks to recommendation by Erik at LivinLite.net
It is not cheap, but it adds a layer of protection to the hose. I cut about four feet off of the end of the nylon wrap (21 ft to equal hose expansion length), and then slowly threaded the hose through the cover - added zip tie to the end of hose but let loose at RV connection. It bunches up to allow for hose expansion - it still fits in the storage box, just a little tighter.
Attached a couple pictures:
Looking for a clear viewing solution to add to the end of the hose - clear 1 1/2 inch diameter hose has been hard to find without buying 10 ft of it.
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How tight did the hose fit in the sleeve? The one you got is out of stock. I got the next size up; 2.5"...I have not unrolled it yet. Looks way too wide! Your thoughts?
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06-18-2020, 07:01 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Natalbany Creek Campground, Amite City, LA
Posts: 3,244
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iamdrdream
How tight did the hose fit in the sleeve? The one you got is out of stock. I got the next size up; 2.5"...I have not unrolled it yet. Looks way too wide! Your thoughts?
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I wouldn't go to the extent of placing the hose within a protective hose. I carry a spare hose for two reasons: 1. If the original fails.........have had it for over a year and still in good condition. 2. On a few occasions, the sewer dump could not be reached with one hose, rare but a PITA when you can't reach it.
I wish Thetford would come up with an end connection that would simply screw onto the original one and be able to just push into the sewer connection. On a few occasions I've run into the problem of not being able to screw the end into the pipe either because the threads are worn......... or there are no threads......... or the sewer in recessed so you can't get it threaded...... or there is an obstruction that prevents you from getting a full turn or two to get it threaded.
__________________
AL & JANET KRUEBBE
2019 PINNACLE 37RLWS
2018 NORTH POINT 315RLTS (TRADED)
2017 RAM 3500 DRW DIESEL/AISIN 4.10 AIR BAGS
B&W COMPANION TURN OVER BALL HITCH
Formerly from Sequim, WA
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07-28-2020, 08:00 AM
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#17
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: on-the-road
Posts: 87
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We've used ours quite a bit on our 2020 Jayco 334 RLOK. Read all about the pinhole leaks. Decided to be proactive and bought a nylon sleeve. Put it on yesterday. Extra level of precaution!
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03-08-2021, 01:26 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: Wichita, Ks
Posts: 201
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Sorry to revive an old thread, but I find it interesting the Eagle use to offer this as an option but has stopped. I was wondering why and thought I would find more topics will failures.
__________________
2021 Eagle 330RSTS
2021 Ram 2500 6.7 CTD
2 Dogs and 1 wife
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03-08-2021, 01:37 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: DFW
Posts: 2,309
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Any Sani Con Turbo Reviews
Maybe a way to further separate the lines by not offering certain options.
__________________
2017 Eagle HT 26.5BHS Sold
2019 Eagle 321RSTS Sold
2024 Grand Design 310GK
2024 Chevy 3500HD DRW
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03-11-2021, 08:45 AM
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#20
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2021
Location: new kensington
Posts: 105
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I have a 2021 seneca with a sanicon turbo 700 don't want to use it, my manual says about manually dumping gray water through 3" port not black ? did you remove the cover off the bottom & remove impeller ?
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