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Old 12-17-2010, 09:24 AM   #1
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08 Eagle furnace fails to attempt ignition sometimes

My problem is a bit different than the threads I have found here. We have an 08 Eagle 341RLQS. The furnace often fails to ignite. It runs for a couple minutes, blowing cold air, then shuts off. A few minutes later, the same thing. You can hear no attempt at ignition.

We've been using a space heater, which gets us through most of the night. But early morning, we start blowing cold air again and lose sleep.

A "fix" is, when the heater is not running, to move the thermostat up a long ways, it will always start and ignite and stay on, then. After a while, we move the setting down to shut it off. It's a bit like getting up to throw a log on the fire. 8-)

We've had an insect cover on the outlet, since we bought it new. I'm not sure, but I suspect this problem has been present since new. It has taken a while to understand the pattern. We had it checked out under warranty last year and mid-day a technician did not find it to fail to ignite, so we left with no resolution.

Any suggestions?
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Old 12-17-2010, 09:40 AM   #2
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My first thought would be to replace the thermostat. I think it is on this group that someone did a very good piece on doing just that with a digital... I think that is my next project.
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Old 12-17-2010, 09:46 AM   #3
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My first thought would be the thermostat as well.
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Old 12-17-2010, 11:04 AM   #4
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Nice to see you back again TexasChuck! Can you contact Jayco direct and let them know that the same problem that you brought it in for initially is still present? Maybe they could still have it checked out on their dime even though the warranty expired... Good luck
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Old 12-17-2010, 11:13 AM   #5
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Looks like warranty expired b4 we had it looked at last year. We just talked to a local repairman who will come out this afternoon. He thinks the thin-wall circuit board can be the culprit, and should be replaced with a "Dinosaur". Saves us a trip to the dealer,etc if he can do the job here. He sounds very experienced. He said the Coleman Mach mechanical thermostat is quite reliable, it either calls for heat or it doesn't. If the furnace doesn't attempt to ignite when it should (after the blower starts) the thermostat really should not be to blame. ??????
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Old 12-17-2010, 11:30 AM   #6
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Kewl, let us know what the repairman says!
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Old 12-17-2010, 02:53 PM   #7
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I've never liked the dinosaur boards. We haven't had luck with them. We always go back to OEM parts when it comes to furnaces and such.
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Old 12-17-2010, 03:45 PM   #8
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I've never liked the dinosaur boards. We haven't had luck with them. We always go back to OEM parts when it comes to furnaces and such.
Edumacation time! What is a "Dinosaur Board"?
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Old 12-17-2010, 03:53 PM   #9
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I'ts pretty simple to test the thermostat. Just remove it from the wall and touch the red and white wires together. If the furnace fires then it's the thermostat. If not it's probably the board. I am assuming that the color code on campers is the same as it is in a home. Red-Power, White-Heat, Yellow-A/C, Green-Fan. Good Luck
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Old 12-17-2010, 05:21 PM   #10
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well, no resolution. the man comes highly recommended, but left stumped. we were able to recreate the problem. Once, when it failed, it briefly burned. Other times, nothing. Maybe 1/2 the time it burns & heats okay. I think tonight I'll just turn it off, use a spaceheater and turn the furnace on in the morning. It will be cold but we snuggle well.
Don't know what to do..... A complication is that there is no outside door. To work on the unit it would have to be removed through the vent-cover hole, or possibly through the basement. I need to find that out.
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Old 12-17-2010, 06:17 PM   #11
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Go back to the basics, what is the DC voltage? Do not say 12V, it is never 12V. Are the batteries in good condition? Most furnace fail to light conditions can be related to low battery voltage.
What is the gas pressure at the furnace? People assume that if the water heater & stove light that the gas pressure is good. Not so.
Remove the insect guard, could be restricting air flow. If the manufacturer didn't supply it, remove it.
Make sure there ar no obstructions on any of the vents or return air. What part of the country is the coach located? Dry, dusty conditions promote dirty appliances, wet conditions promote electrical problems.
Post make, model & serial number and I will see if I can help.
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Old 12-17-2010, 06:48 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SWEET74 View Post
Go back to the basics, what is the DC voltage? Do not say 12V, it is never 12V. Are the batteries in good condition? Most furnace fail to light conditions can be related to low battery voltage.
What is the gas pressure at the furnace? People assume that if the water heater & stove light that the gas pressure is good. Not so.
Remove the insect guard, could be restricting air flow. If the manufacturer didn't supply it, remove it.
Make sure there ar no obstructions on any of the vents or return air. What part of the country is the coach located? Dry, dusty conditions promote dirty appliances, wet conditions promote electrical problems.
Post make, model & serial number and I will see if I can help.
Thanks for your input Eric!
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Old 12-17-2010, 06:56 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SWEET74 View Post
Go back to the basics, what is the DC voltage? Do not say 12V, it is never 12V. Are the batteries in good condition? Most furnace fail to light conditions can be related to low battery voltage.
What is the gas pressure at the furnace? People assume that if the water heater & stove light that the gas pressure is good. Not so.
Remove the insect guard, could be restricting air flow. If the manufacturer didn't supply it, remove it.
Make sure there ar no obstructions on any of the vents or return air. What part of the country is the coach located? Dry, dusty conditions promote dirty appliances, wet conditions promote electrical problems.
Post make, model & serial number and I will see if I can help.
08 Jayco Eagle 341RLQS, ser.#1UJCJ02R581LH0108. weather for months has been very dry, both at home in Arkansas, and now in Hill Country Texas. Problem existed last year too, not dry then. Batteries seem fine; they have required hardly a drop of water since new. We're most always on shore power, so it's hard to observe batteries. How would I test them? I do have an electrical acdc meter, but little knowledge on how to use it.

All vents are open. Stove works well and is burning clean. I have no idea what the gas pressure is at the furnace. I'd hate to take off the dauber screen, but could for testing. Probably no nestbuilding going on at this time of the year, anyways.

Would appreciate whatever ideas you can come up with....
-Chuck
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Old 12-17-2010, 07:59 PM   #14
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Ok... My 2 cents...

I recently just got done fixing my furance in my Eagle 296 FBS... It would squeak once when fired up and the sometimes light and other times refused to light. So I open up the access removed the 4 1/4" hex head screws and pull the blower cover. Now using WD40 I shot the one bearing (left side) with a quick shot and reassembled.

Tested... Squeak gone for that test and was reliable... But knew the WD40 is a band-aid. What I figured out was the blower bearings were dried out and dragging down the blower enough to keep the sail switch from firing everytime. So like in your case the motor could be slowing down enough to prevent the sail switch staying ON.

So now to the fix... I managed to pull the blower motor out and remove both blowers off the shaft. Using a piece of vinyl tubing about 3-4" long and 3/8" ID. I remove the zerk fitting on the grease gun and put the vinyl tube on the end. Now slipping the vinyl tube over the motor shaft I gave each side of the motor 1 pump of grease as you hold the vinyl tight to the motor housing.

Now reassembled and tried it... Wow! Huge difference. Air flow inside lot stronger and heated quickly.

The only other thing I can figure that is going on is the high limit switch is faulty and shutting down the furnace because its too hot?
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Old 12-18-2010, 09:30 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasChuck View Post
08 Jayco Eagle 341RLQS, ser.#1UJCJ02R581LH0108. weather for months has been very dry, both at home in Arkansas, and now in Hill Country Texas. Problem existed last year too, not dry then. Batteries seem fine; they have required hardly a drop of water since new. We're most always on shore power, so it's hard to observe batteries. How would I test them? I do have an electrical acdc meter, but little knowledge on how to use it.

All vents are open. Stove works well and is burning clean. I have no idea what the gas pressure is at the furnace. I'd hate to take off the dauber screen, but could for testing. Probably no nestbuilding going on at this time of the year, anyways.

Would appreciate whatever ideas you can come up with....
-Chuck
Chuck those screens are really only meant for when the rig is in storage... when your using the appliances the bugs ain't going to be building nests in it.
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Old 12-18-2010, 08:27 PM   #16
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okay, I googled it up: Bob Livingston concurs: http://rvtravel.com/blog/lowtech/200...1_archive.html He suggests tape rather than investing in a screen, but further suggests putting up a sign to remind you to remove the tape before firing up. I think I'll continue to install the screen and remember to take it off after storage.
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Old 12-18-2010, 08:34 PM   #17
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okay, now for a report: 29-degrees last night. We left the furnace on last night and no space heater. The furnace operated successfully all night, as far as we can tell. (We're both heavy sleepers). Aside from no space heater, the only thing we know that was different was the repairman cleaned the thermostat with alcohol. We will continue to watch it and see if it's okay. And I'll remove the bug screen tomorrow. (too cold and dark out now.)
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Old 12-19-2010, 05:41 PM   #18
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Its rarely ever the thermostat. The thermostat acts like a switch. How often have you ever changed a light switch. Rare to never. I do HVAC fo a living and if its working now without bug guard it was probably clogged, otherwise I would guess control board or loose wire somewhere,based off the intermittent nature of your problem. Do you hear it sparking to lite? If you are and you hear the wooff of the flames then the flames go off seconds later after ignition then your flame sensor is probably dirty.
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