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Old 12-17-2010, 06:17 PM   #11
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Go back to the basics, what is the DC voltage? Do not say 12V, it is never 12V. Are the batteries in good condition? Most furnace fail to light conditions can be related to low battery voltage.
What is the gas pressure at the furnace? People assume that if the water heater & stove light that the gas pressure is good. Not so.
Remove the insect guard, could be restricting air flow. If the manufacturer didn't supply it, remove it.
Make sure there ar no obstructions on any of the vents or return air. What part of the country is the coach located? Dry, dusty conditions promote dirty appliances, wet conditions promote electrical problems.
Post make, model & serial number and I will see if I can help.
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Old 12-17-2010, 06:48 PM   #12
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Go back to the basics, what is the DC voltage? Do not say 12V, it is never 12V. Are the batteries in good condition? Most furnace fail to light conditions can be related to low battery voltage.
What is the gas pressure at the furnace? People assume that if the water heater & stove light that the gas pressure is good. Not so.
Remove the insect guard, could be restricting air flow. If the manufacturer didn't supply it, remove it.
Make sure there ar no obstructions on any of the vents or return air. What part of the country is the coach located? Dry, dusty conditions promote dirty appliances, wet conditions promote electrical problems.
Post make, model & serial number and I will see if I can help.
Thanks for your input Eric!
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Old 12-17-2010, 06:56 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by SWEET74 View Post
Go back to the basics, what is the DC voltage? Do not say 12V, it is never 12V. Are the batteries in good condition? Most furnace fail to light conditions can be related to low battery voltage.
What is the gas pressure at the furnace? People assume that if the water heater & stove light that the gas pressure is good. Not so.
Remove the insect guard, could be restricting air flow. If the manufacturer didn't supply it, remove it.
Make sure there ar no obstructions on any of the vents or return air. What part of the country is the coach located? Dry, dusty conditions promote dirty appliances, wet conditions promote electrical problems.
Post make, model & serial number and I will see if I can help.
08 Jayco Eagle 341RLQS, ser.#1UJCJ02R581LH0108. weather for months has been very dry, both at home in Arkansas, and now in Hill Country Texas. Problem existed last year too, not dry then. Batteries seem fine; they have required hardly a drop of water since new. We're most always on shore power, so it's hard to observe batteries. How would I test them? I do have an electrical acdc meter, but little knowledge on how to use it.

All vents are open. Stove works well and is burning clean. I have no idea what the gas pressure is at the furnace. I'd hate to take off the dauber screen, but could for testing. Probably no nestbuilding going on at this time of the year, anyways.

Would appreciate whatever ideas you can come up with....
-Chuck
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Old 12-17-2010, 07:59 PM   #14
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Ok... My 2 cents...

I recently just got done fixing my furance in my Eagle 296 FBS... It would squeak once when fired up and the sometimes light and other times refused to light. So I open up the access removed the 4 1/4" hex head screws and pull the blower cover. Now using WD40 I shot the one bearing (left side) with a quick shot and reassembled.

Tested... Squeak gone for that test and was reliable... But knew the WD40 is a band-aid. What I figured out was the blower bearings were dried out and dragging down the blower enough to keep the sail switch from firing everytime. So like in your case the motor could be slowing down enough to prevent the sail switch staying ON.

So now to the fix... I managed to pull the blower motor out and remove both blowers off the shaft. Using a piece of vinyl tubing about 3-4" long and 3/8" ID. I remove the zerk fitting on the grease gun and put the vinyl tube on the end. Now slipping the vinyl tube over the motor shaft I gave each side of the motor 1 pump of grease as you hold the vinyl tight to the motor housing.

Now reassembled and tried it... Wow! Huge difference. Air flow inside lot stronger and heated quickly.

The only other thing I can figure that is going on is the high limit switch is faulty and shutting down the furnace because its too hot?
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Old 12-18-2010, 09:30 AM   #15
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08 Jayco Eagle 341RLQS, ser.#1UJCJ02R581LH0108. weather for months has been very dry, both at home in Arkansas, and now in Hill Country Texas. Problem existed last year too, not dry then. Batteries seem fine; they have required hardly a drop of water since new. We're most always on shore power, so it's hard to observe batteries. How would I test them? I do have an electrical acdc meter, but little knowledge on how to use it.

All vents are open. Stove works well and is burning clean. I have no idea what the gas pressure is at the furnace. I'd hate to take off the dauber screen, but could for testing. Probably no nestbuilding going on at this time of the year, anyways.

Would appreciate whatever ideas you can come up with....
-Chuck
Chuck those screens are really only meant for when the rig is in storage... when your using the appliances the bugs ain't going to be building nests in it.
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Old 12-18-2010, 08:27 PM   #16
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okay, I googled it up: Bob Livingston concurs: http://rvtravel.com/blog/lowtech/200...1_archive.html He suggests tape rather than investing in a screen, but further suggests putting up a sign to remind you to remove the tape before firing up. I think I'll continue to install the screen and remember to take it off after storage.
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Old 12-18-2010, 08:34 PM   #17
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okay, now for a report: 29-degrees last night. We left the furnace on last night and no space heater. The furnace operated successfully all night, as far as we can tell. (We're both heavy sleepers). Aside from no space heater, the only thing we know that was different was the repairman cleaned the thermostat with alcohol. We will continue to watch it and see if it's okay. And I'll remove the bug screen tomorrow. (too cold and dark out now.)
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Old 12-19-2010, 05:41 PM   #18
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Its rarely ever the thermostat. The thermostat acts like a switch. How often have you ever changed a light switch. Rare to never. I do HVAC fo a living and if its working now without bug guard it was probably clogged, otherwise I would guess control board or loose wire somewhere,based off the intermittent nature of your problem. Do you hear it sparking to lite? If you are and you hear the wooff of the flames then the flames go off seconds later after ignition then your flame sensor is probably dirty.
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