12V Refrigerator

[Big1]

I have one question that I want to make sure I'm doing this right, but I don't need to run my propane if I have a 12V fridge is this correct, I just make sure that my inverter is run, right? Thank you for your comments.

[Grumpy]

Do you have a residential fridge or Norcold fridge? If the residential it is 120 and runs off the inverter so you don't need the propane on.

[Big1]

Thank you Grumpy, it stated that it's a 20 Cu. FT. 12V Refrigerator, so it doesn't say residential.

[Big1]

Okay, I check and it is a 21 Cu residential refrigerator with 1800W inverter, great good so I don't need to run the propane.

[RoadrunnerII]

Big One
If it's 12 volt DC it's running off the 12 volt battery and off the converter when connected to the 120 volt AC pedistal.

Residential Fridge uses 120 volt AC powerand would run off the pedistal connection directly.

When driving down the road or boondocking residential Fridge must run thru an inverter that is taking battery DC volt and inverting it at a frequency of 60 cycles per second and amplifying it from 12 volts to 110-120 volts Alternating current

Converter takes 120 Volts AC and converts it to 12 Volt DC

Inverter Takes 12 volts DC from your batteries and creates 120 volt AC


DC is Direct current

AC is Alternating current

Hope this adds some clarity

So residential Fridge no propane required

Older RV fridge came as a dual source
It used heat to cause the cooling These used an ammonia based cooling system
You could use 120 volt AC pedistal power OR
Propane

The next latest rage in RV fridges are
12 volt DC powered but use a compressor and refrigeration system like a residential
Since it is 12 volt DC you don't need an inverter to run these fridges
You do need larger batteries and a sizable solar charging system and possibly a generator if boondocking to recharge your batteries to keep the fridge working.

RoadrunnerII

[Big1]

Originally Posted by RoadrunnerII

Big One
If it's 12 volt DC it's running off the 12 volt battery and off the converter when connected to the 120 volt AC pedistal.

Residential Fridge uses 120 volt AC powerand would run off the pedistal connection directly.

When driving down the road or boondocking residential Fridge must run thru an inverter that is taking battery DC volt and inverting it at a frequency of 60 cycles per second and amplifying it from 12 volts to 110-120 volts Alternating current

Converter takes 120 Volts AC and converts it to 12 Volt DC

Inverter Takes 12 volts DC from your batteries and creates 120 volt AC


DC is Direct current

AC is Alternating current

Hope this adds some clarity

So residential Fridge no propane required

Older RV fridge came as a dual source
It used heat to cause the cooling These used an ammonia based cooling system
You could use 120 volt AC pedistal power OR
Propane

The next latest rage in RV fridges are
12 volt DC powered but use a compressor and refrigeration system like a residential
Since it is 12 volt DC you don't need an inverter to run these fridges
You do need larger batteries and a sizable solar charging system and possibly a generator if boondocking to recharge your batteries to keep the fridge working.

RoadrunnerII

Sir, thank you, thank you, this clarifies everything, I do have pre-installed solar, I was at my RV today and I was looking for the inverter inside the RV but after thinking I went in the basement by the water jug and found it.

So with that said, every time we use our RV do I go in the basement and push the on button on the inverter, correct?

[RoadrunnerII]

Originally Posted by Big1

Sir, thank you, thank you, this clarifies everything, I do have pre-installed solar, I was at my RV today and I was looking for the inverter inside the RV but after thinking I went in the basement by the water jug and found it.



So with that said, every time we use our RV do I go in the basement and push the on button on the inverter, correct?

So if you want the residential Fridge to run while going down the road Yes you need the inverter on.
Some inverters when turned on and trailer is connected to pedestal will pass the pedestal power thru.

I would be checking your 12 volt battery voltage occasionally while you are motoring to ensure you have enough battery capacity to run the fridge and enough to run your Jack's when you arrive at your campsite.
Depending on the solar setup it may have enough capacity to keep the batteries charged. You may need to add additional batteries. You may not it depends on your usage.
Lots of moving pieces with residential Fridge, inverter, 12 volt batteries and solar all in the mix.
Be careful. When it's daylight solar is working. Adding a battery is a little more tricky. You need to ensure the solar controller is turned off and pedestal power disconnected.
And most important have fun!

RoadrunnerII

[Forester2]

RoadrunnerII makes a great point about checking your battery status. Adding a battery monitor with Bluetooth like a Victron may give you greater peace of mind.

[F350guy]

Yours may not be the same but mine has a small monitor panel under the cabinet that has the BMPro. It has 3 lights. The top one is lit when I'm hooked to shore power and the middle one is lit when I'm not and the inverter is working. I'm not sure what the 3rd one is. I've never touched the inverter as it switches automatically when hooking or unhooking from shore power. I have 2 6 volt batteries and no solar. We never boondock but in all day drives I've never run the batteries down. We also have the Whirlpool 21 cf residential fridge.

[kirkelli]

the newer RV's with 12 V residential fridges basically have a stand alone inverter built into the fridge that only powers the fridge and runs off your 12V system.. The fridge is actually running off 120V internally.. For boon docking, you can't beat the Norcold 3 way system.. For some reason i've always experienced a colder box when running off propane vs DC or AC.

[Forester2]

Im not sure thats correct. Read about the Danfoss 12v dc compressors the best units are using. Having many hours wirh a 12v refridge now I am VERY impressed. More cu ft, less venting required,better performance in high temperatures and no flame. Does require a higher investment when boondocking (solar, batteries) butafter being skeptical at first, we are quite happy.

[RoadrunnerII]

We just went thru a failed Norcold model 1210 cooling ammonia system
It just could not keep the fridge cold consistently.
Extra fans inside fridge extra fans on the back. Shade on fridge side. Checked seals. Once it got above 70*F it was a pain
We wanted the same 4 doors style fridge and ended up having the fridge converted to 12 volt compressor style in Shipshiwana
Night and day difference and price wise it was cheaper than a new Norcold or dometic.
We already had two group 31 batteries in the 5th.
Currently freezer is at minus 1 *F
Fridge is 38*F
Never could get freezer that cold ever.
At best 20*F
Fridge would bounce around 40*F but when it would act up it would climb above 50*F.
We don't boondock so 12 volt DC was the best solution.
No need for an inverter

RoadrunnerII

[kirkelli]

Originally Posted by Forester2

Im not sure thats correct. Read about the Danfoss 12v dc compressors the best units are using. Having many hours wirh a 12v refridge now I am VERY impressed. More cu ft, less venting required,better performance in high temperatures and no flame. Does require a higher investment when boondocking (solar, batteries) butafter being skeptical at first, we are quite happy.

Clarks RV replaced the electronic board on my NORCOLD. The technician actually told me the new 12V residential fridges are basically a conventional home fridge with an 120AC/12VDC inverter built into them to power off a 12V system. I'm not sure about the 12V fridge systems in the Van conversion campers, but i would bet they have a similar system with an inverter built in to run a 120V compressor. Some residential fridges requires 0 venting, once cooled requires very little energy to run and they will easily keep ice cream frozen. I've got 1400 wats of solar, 8 Lithium batteries and have run out of juice a few times camping up north on some long overcast days.. If not for the gas option we would have lost a lot of food. I'm defiantly a NORCOLD fan....

[Big1]

Originally Posted by RoadrunnerII

So if you want the residential Fridge to run while going down the road Yes you need the inverter on.
Some inverters when turned on and trailer is connected to pedestal will pass the pedestal power thru.

I would be checking your 12 volt battery voltage occasionally while you are motoring to ensure you have enough battery capacity to run the fridge and enough to run your Jack's when you arrive at your campsite.
Depending on the solar setup it may have enough capacity to keep the batteries charged. You may need to add additional batteries. You may not it depends on your usage.
Lots of moving pieces with residential Fridge, inverter, 12 volt batteries and solar all in the mix.
Be careful. When it's daylight solar is working. Adding a battery is a little more tricky. You need to ensure the solar controller is turned off and pedestal power disconnected.
And most important have fun!

RoadrunnerII

Thank you, but this in red statement I'm not sure I understand do I make sure that the inverter is turn off or do it goes off when I connect to shore power?

[Big1]

Thank you guys again for all of your comments it is deeply appreciated. Will the solar and my house batteries keep the fridge running while I'm traveling?

We are planning our first outing in a few weeks or so, I want to do all the right things to keep up and running.

FWIW: I have the Furrion Arctic 12 volt French Door Refrigerator 21 cu. ft.

[RoadrunnerII]

Originally Posted by Big1

Thank you, but this in red statement I'm not sure I understand do I make sure that the inverter is turn off or do it goes off when I connect to shore power?

Only need that the red statement done if adding a battery
Best read up on your inverter but most new ones allow 120 volt pedestal to pass thru

RoadrunnerII

[Big1]

Originally Posted by RoadrunnerII

Only need that the red statement done if adding a battery
Best read up on your inverter but most new ones allow 120 volt pedestal to pass thru

RoadrunnerII

I did add one more battery the RV only came with one battery, I did found the inverter switch in the basement by the water jug so I have to remember to turn that on.

Question: When I'm out for anywhere from 1/2 hr to 4 hrs show I turn on the inverter so the batteries keep a charge? Sorry for so many questions thanks again.

[Forester2]

I think things are getting confused here. If you have a true12 volt dc refridge, the inverter has nothing to do with it. Inverter is taking your battery power and converting it into AC power which will go through the AC breakers in your panel. A CONVERTER usually in your panel, will change AC shore power into DC and charge your batteries. Your solar CONTROLLER will regulate solar dc output to your batteries so you don't over charge them. The DC fridge will be powered by battery output. If you have. a residental 110AC fridge that is when inverter is used to convert battery DC into AC.

[RoadrunnerII]

Originally Posted by Forester2

I think things are getting confused here. If you have a true12 volt dc refridge, the inverter has nothing to do with it. Inverter is taking your battery power and converting it into AC power which will go through the AC breakers in your panel. A CONVERTER usually in your panel, will change AC shore power into DC and charge your batteries. Your solar CONTROLLER will regulate solar dc output to your batteries so you don't over charge them. The DC fridge will be powered by battery output. If you have. a residental 110AC fridge that is when inverter is used to convert battery DC into AC.

What Forester2 said.

RoadrunnerII

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by Forester2

I think things are getting confused here.

They are. OP already stated he had a residential fridge with the 1800 watt inverter not a 12V.