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Old 07-21-2015, 01:51 PM   #121
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Still waiting to hear from Jayco what will be done for the repair on the side wall issue.

New problem: The space between the rear bumper of the TV and the front of the Pinnacle are MUCH tighter than my old 351 RLTS. If you're not 100% straight with the truck to trailer and the tailgate is down...... You WILL hit the camper. I have the step in my tailgate which makes it very heavy for my DW to hold partially open as I back up or pull out. Looks like a vented V-notched tailgate will be on order soon.
What hitch do you have some allow you to move it forward and aft. Maybe not the best idea if you need ride rite overloads but an option. Also maybe the 5th on the trailer has options to be moved.
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Old 07-21-2015, 01:56 PM   #122
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MantyGary, My truck is squatting onto the overloads really badly. Truck is dropping over 4" with the camper on it. My neighbor has the same truck so when I get the camper from the shop we're going to see how far his squats. Front tires feel loose as well as it feels like all the weight is on the rear.
Didn't catch which truck you have but 4 inches should make you level. How far down before hitting the overloads? Now that you have bags do you just make it level? I have always wondered how you decide how much to put in the bags.
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Old 07-21-2015, 03:03 PM   #123
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There is a group of us that are having the same issues with the so-called leveling system in the toy haulers. In our experience, the system will not level side to side if it is more than 1.5 degrees off. With the hydraulic system on a different brand it would level from more than 4.0 degrees off level. The other issue, at least with the 2.0 system, is that it only uses 4 jacks to level, then uses the center jacks to stabilize. The system also requires 12.5 volts to operate, so if you are trying to level from just one battery, especially a group 24, the amp draw is too high and will drop the voltage, causing a premature fault. I have a Seismic 3712, and we are back to leveling with boards and then stabilizing with the "leveling" system.

We are unhappy enough with this setup compared to the hydraulic system that our next trailer may not be a Jayco because of this. It does not work as advertised and is a poor system. A Lippert tech told me that the hydraulic system is the "cadillac" and the electric system is the "chevrolet". I have gone back and forth with Jayco and Lippert about this and everyone says it is working properly according to the specs and do not want to look at it.

If you want to get a little more performance from it, you might try a direct hookup to the TV battery to get more amp draw. I also always plug the camper in before leveling, because at least I start with a higher voltage that way. This is an ongoing issue that Jayco is ignoring.
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Old 07-21-2015, 03:47 PM   #124
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Didn't catch which truck you have but 4 inches should make you level. How far down before hitting the overloads? Now that you have bags do you just make it level? I have always wondered how you decide how much to put in the bags.
I have a 2014 F-350 SD 4x4 Dually. There is about 2-3" before I am on the overloads. I measured the truck height empty and the brought it almost back to that when I filled the bags. Much much different ride
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Old 07-21-2015, 03:54 PM   #125
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There is a group of us that are having the same issues with the so-called leveling system in the toy haulers. In our experience, the system will not level side to side if it is more than 1.5 degrees off. With the hydraulic system on a different brand it would level from more than 4.0 degrees off level. The other issue, at least with the 2.0 system, is that it only uses 4 jacks to level, then uses the center jacks to stabilize. The system also requires 12.5 volts to operate, so if you are trying to level from just one battery, especially a group 24, the amp draw is too high and will drop the voltage, causing a premature fault. I have a Seismic 3712, and we are back to leveling with boards and then stabilizing with the "leveling" system.
The 3.0 is about the same. It only uses the 4 jacks to level and then the center to stabilize. I did get it to work twice so far, but you cannot be more than 1% off grade or it will fault out.

We are unhappy enough with this setup compared to the hydraulic system that our next trailer may not be a Jayco because of this. It does not work as advertised and is a poor system. A Lippert tech told me that the hydraulic system is the "cadillac" and the electric system is the "chevrolet". I have gone back and forth with Jayco and Lippert about this and everyone says it is working properly according to the specs and do not want to look at it.

If you want to get a little more performance from it, you might try a direct hookup to the TV battery to get more amp draw. I also always plug the camper in before leveling, because at least I start with a higher voltage that way. This is an ongoing issue that Jayco is ignoring.
I always plug the camper in as well so the inverter will help keep my battery level up. I too keep being told the system is working properly. The manual says to start about level and the dealer says to start auto below level. The only times it worked properly was starting below level and putting wood blocks under all the jacks.
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Old 07-21-2015, 04:38 PM   #126
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Mike.. I'm a week out from delivery of my new rig with 3.0
What should I look for when they show me that the 3.0 system is working fine?
Should I get them to put 2" under one side, to make it out of level and see if it still works correctly?
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Old 07-21-2015, 04:46 PM   #127
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Why are the rear jacks involved in the leveling sequence?
I thought the whole point to 6 point leveling was the middle jacks put the pressure on the frame... i.e the rear part of the frame is still cantilevered at the axels, like it was designed for.
The frame isn't designed for pressure on the very back end. Would it not want to twist the frame??
Aren't the back jacks for the "stability" part?
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Old 07-21-2015, 04:59 PM   #128
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It seems the electric system levels the RV front to back and side to side with the front and back jacks. Once the system is level, it lowers the middle jacks.
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Old 07-21-2015, 05:00 PM   #129
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The front lifts first and gets close, the rears come down and out a lot of pressure on the ground, then the fronts lift again against the rear (usually where it amps out because it takes a lot more juice at this point) then all 4 corners then the middle. If you make it to the middle chances are good it will finish correctly. I would ask them to demonstrate it on un-level ground somewhere since I have yet to find a site that is level.
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Old 07-21-2015, 05:13 PM   #130
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I see now the rear jacks are not at the "rear", but behind the wheels.
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