2016 36REQS On order as of yesterday

[klassic]

Mike, how far does your controller say the rear levelers are out?
I've gone 12.5" so far with no trouble, the ground was sloped front to back
My battery voltage was at 12.4 volts

[MikeNChelle]

I've had mine error out and then checked them. The screen sows 6.4" on one and the other was 5.9". Error out saying the left front was the problem. The left front was only at 6.8 when it gave the error.
This is the most frustrating thing I've ever dealt with on a new camper. (So far)

[P25ct]

Mike, can't help with the Hall effect physical stroke info (we don't have that on 2.0) but Wanted to clarify some info, on our 2.0 we only have 10ga power wire to the jacks. No Hall effect, your 3.0 should have a bundle of larger gauge (10 or if they got smart larger) which power the Jack then some 16/18ga wires to transmit the Hall effect Info to the controller like a Schwintek slide does. What I do know from talking with Lippert is on the 3.0 Jayco can not cut and splice wires from the original bundles provided by Lippert (eg make them longer). They must use intact cable assemblies with OEM connectors, our 2.0 is spliced to the motors at the jacks, introducing another weak point if not done or sealed from road grime right. Just FYI

[klassic]

On flat level ground my rear is at 9.5
And the front is at 6 after I extend the legs

Why can't your dealer figure this out...
If you want I'll take a picture of mine saying more then 12 inches. Then tell them yours should do the same thing and you'll have proof it can

[MikeNChelle]

Thanks for the info. I will try to get under there this weekend and check what they have for sure.
My other issue is I broke my left leg on July 4th. weekend loading the new Pinnacle. Only thought I sprained something until 2 weeks ago when it got SO bad I couldn't move it. What a summer this is turning out to be..
I am still waiting on Jayco to answer about the sidewall issue we have going on...

[MikeNChelle]

Originally Posted by klassic

On flat level ground my rear is at 9.5
And the front is at 6 after I extend the legs

Why can't your dealer figure this out...
If you want I'll take a picture of mine saying more then 12 inches. Then tell them yours should do the same thing and you'll have proof it can

That would be great. Even in manual mode I can't get over 7". This is why I have to put the 6" x 6" wood chunks under the jacks.

[imjustdave]

Anyone know what the length is on the 2.0 and 3.0 systems? as in the electric portion.

I hear mention of the front needs to start out lower then the rear is this because the tube extension in side has been used more then the electric motor which basically only allows the system a really small section of jack movement? so if you ran the jacks out all the way to unhook then the jack has plenty of movement left. AKA a lot of times when I unhook I just drop the extension all the way out and then raise up the trailer. but if the electric portion of the jack is only out 3 inches this could really limit the abilities. So old school of thinking might mean we need to use the electric jack more to get lower first then drop the extension.

Those with issues what battery setup do you have? how many 12 V batteries, 6v setup? size ETC. Also if you have 2+ 12v systems are you pulling power + and - off of one battery or one of each of both. Yes there is a difference. Wonder if some of you were short changed with small batteries from the dealer, added with questionable wiring. This could really be a key to a lot of issues. 2 jack motors running at once could really put a draw on the batteries. Even boon docking most of the time the draw is way lower, these jacks are the biggest amp draw we have.

With the 6 point system, do the rear jacks level it out with the center jacks drop at the end to stabilize... Or do the center jacks drop down to level it out then drop the rear jacks? I assume the 2.0 and 3.0 work the same in this regard. I wonder if some people have different actions on the trailer.

To me I would think center jacks and front jacks would do the leveling with the rears dropping at the end for stabilization.

Has anyone see an installation manual. Would be interesting to view.

[MikeNChelle]

The old way of thinking, dropping the front legs on the 3.0 will not work. If the front is higher and needs to drop you'll have no available cylinder movement to allow that. I will check what battery I have on Friday, but I do know it's a 12V.
Front jacks go first for front to back level, then the backs go and put pressure on the fronts, then the fronts again with side to side leveling then the rears. When it's almost done the center jacks come into play. Stabilizing mostly.

[klassic]

[MOCamper]

So I have this North Point 377RLBH on order. I am reading this post horrified. Should I call and cancel my order, and wait for Hydraulic leveling? The only other thing close to the North Point is a Elkridge or Oakmount. While I have not seen the exact floor plan 5 minutes in each one made me decide they were not to the quality of my Eagle. Finishes seemed super cheap and cabinet doors were so thin even the smallest door wobbled when opening the door. Honest Opinions?

[djtho1]

imjustdave: I have tried to level with one group 24, one group 27, two 6v golf cart batteries (Trojan T-105s) and with it plugged into the pedestal as well as plugged into the TV. P25ct has a hookup that lets him tie into his truck batteries once unhooked. None of us can get level reliably past about 1.2-1.5 degrees off side to side. I have the 2.0 system, and can say that I don't have the nose issue. Mine will always level front to back. The system requires 12.5 volts at the computer, which is its first problem, and it is downhill from there. This system uses the front and rear jacks to level and then drops the middle jacks to stabilize. Right now I have my seismic sitting with boards under the wheels to get it within a degree and then leveled with the auto system. My last camper had the lippert 6 point hydraulic system and it would level from over 4 degrees off side to side on one group 24 battery (picks the whole suspension off the ground. fun to watch).

MOCamper: I don't know what to tell you. If you are buying and one of the upgrades you wanted was the auto-leveling, I would have to say cancel, because it will not auto-level in most situations and you will be back to using boards or whatever you used before to level sid to side. It sounds like you have some other issues going on with construction quality too, so I might be worried. I have called Jayco with my fail to level stories and asked them to look at this forum so they can get an idea, but I doubt they will. I know I am actively telling people that this system is horrible and will not reliably level a camper.

[MOCamper]

djtho1- Reason 1 for the camper is a real living room. Reason 2 is Auto level. Reason 3 is the older kids can use the loft while the baby sleeps in play pen below. Reason 4 is whisper air, which I think Jayco is the only MFG that does not do both out of the ac that use the central return system. I think I am going to call dealer and do some serious questioning, and if I am not satisfied I'll cancel. Since this unit was already on order all I have in this is $250.00. The problem is the dealer is 6 hours away so I cant just go monkey with a North Point on their lot until I am satisfied. I guess I will have to wait for Montana to come out with this floor plan.

[djtho1]

I would definately talk to the dealer and ask them serious questions. What Jayco is currently saying is that the unit has to start out "reasonably level" before using the auto level system. Kinda defeats the purpose of having auto leveling in my opinion. We had an evergreen bayhill before my current seismic and liked it. We got the seismic because the toy hauler worked better for our full-timing needs. We full time with four kiddos, so this non-leveling system is a major PIA to us because we use it a lot. Good luck!

[klassic]

MOCamper... My ground control seems to work as advertised.
I'm loving my new NorthPoint.
A couple things that I don't like are... The cabinet doors with the DVD don't stay open cause they open upwards ... I can't hook up on an angle with my tailgate down (it hits the trailer) and the front cap isn't short box friendly. I've never had to deal with these things before.

[MikeNChelle]

Went with my friend again looking for a new camper. I told him there is NO WAY I would EVER buy another unit with this 3.0 crap in it. He wants a Montana something or other and they offer all 3 of the Lippert products. I told him again, hydraulic is the only way to go.
I'm excited to leave on Friday for my trip, but nervous because I am sure the system will fail. I have a broken leg at the present moment and getting under the camper and putting leveling pads under the tires will be rough to say the least. I think that Jayco should retro fit these faulty POS's with the hydraulic system for all the stress the 3.0 system causes.

[P25ct]

I spoke to Brad from Bigfoot Leveling Systems. It looks like I will be having the system installed on the Seismic, if DW and I decide to hang onto it, which I think we will as she really is happy with the unit otherwise. It's more expensive by a few hundred than a Level Up by Lippert but quality is better and I refuse to hand another 4k to Lippert for one of their products, when their 3k$ product I have is being ripped out, however I don't so much blame them, as much as I do Jayco for choosing these electric systems on big 5ers.

[MikeNChelle]

Originally Posted by P25ct

I spoke to Brad from Bigfoot Leveling Systems. It looks like I will be having the system installed on the Seismic, if DW and I decide to hang onto it, which I think we will as she really is happy with the unit otherwise. It's more expensive by a few hundred than a Level Up by Lippert but quality is better and I refuse to hand another 4k to Lippert for one of their products, when their 3k$ product I have is being ripped out, however I don't so much blame them, as much as I do Jayco for choosing these electric systems on big 5ers.

I agree. I have to save up more $$$$ since Jayco just got all the money I had for my new Pinnacle. I wonder if the 3.0 is worth anything since it's only worked once.... bwhaaa

[MikeNChelle]

Back to the original "Other" problems with our new camper. Jayco still hasn't responded about what they are going to do about the inside wall that has delaminated itself. This is the entire area about of couch and dinette area. Still waiting on the TV to get here so it can be replaced and just about everything else that was on my original list back in the beginning of July.
I truly don't understand why things take so long. They took my money lick a dee split.

[MikeNChelle]

Just got back from a week in the camper. We had a water leak in 3 connections from the water panel. The Plex connectors were not close to being tightend and everything in the basement was soaked. With the lack of support for water lines that are "Out of sight" I'm surprised there aren't more failures. Looks like I'll be in there securing and organizing this mess... What a joke.
I truly cannot believe that this is acceptable wiring and plumbing.
I guess out of sight out of mind UNTIL something leaks and ruins stuff that's in storage.
The washer and dryer are a great addition, but the washer will shake you to death in the spin cycle. Not sure exactly what to do to fix that issue. I guess one problem at a time.
Happy Camping

[MikeNChelle]

Just got back from a 4 day trip. I am so disappointed with this camper it's not even funny. So much so that I may not buy another Jayco in the future.
1.) I've had 6 water leaks so far and am not looking forward future ones. When the plumber came out this week on site to fix these last 3 he said, "Hopefully the shower doesn't leak next as there is no place to get into that unless we cut a hole in the cabinet behind the shower.
2.) The keyless entry failed to open the lock fully Friday night in the rain when we arrived on site. It tries to open, but will not slide the bar all the way open so we could get in. Thank God I left a set of keys in the truck so we could get in.
3.) The lockset in the entry door doesn't like to function properly either. When closing the door it hits the striker plate and bounce off and doesn't close. There is like caulk everywhere inside the mechanism and I got as much as I could out of there.
4.) Both of the recliner chairs broke within 15 minutes of each other. Cheap chairs for sure.
I did however get Auto Level Success on my first try. I think I am getting the hang of this 3.0 system.
Now time to call the dealer to add these to my growing list of things to be fixed. Still no answer as to what they will do to fix my wall & TV.