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Old 03-31-2016, 11:50 PM   #31
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I'm responding to your pictures of your battery compartment here.

If I'm reading what you wrote correctly, you are saying you followed the side solar wire to red covered connection post with the short red jumper wire on the opposite post.

Maybe this is where I lost you back on page 2... Those "posts" with the red covers are breakers. Perhaps my ramblings aren't as clear as they are to me in my head
The top breaker , with the red cover, is a 20a breaker. If you take it off to look at the side edge, or if you could get a real good look at it it will say "Bussmann short stop 20amp"
That is the breaker for the side solar. It is an auto reset breaker (maybe I lost you because it doesn't look like a typical breaker)

The breaker with the red cover underneath the top breaker is the main breaker for the battery, if you can read the edge it's a 50a breaker.
The top solar breaker has the short red jumper going to the bottom breaker because it is just a convenient junction point to join the power from the side solar to the battery.
The green wire is the wire from the +12v from your truck..it has a 30a fuse.
If you care to verifying that, take out the fuse, plug your cord into the truck, turn on your truck and put the volt meter into the wire nut. You should have 12 volts. Then unplug the truck and you'll have 0 volts.

What I don't see is your roof solar. It too needs one of those breakers with the red cover....it would be a 30a. There is no reason not to put it with the other two breakers.
I betting that the one black wire that is attached to your + battery post is the roof solar and ends where you can't find it. If it is a 8 guage.
To test this theory disconnect the one that DOESN'T go to the bottom breaker with the red cover. I'm pretty sure nothing will shut off in your trailer.

If this is the case leave it disconnected because it has no breaker on it (that I can see and you can see) and could short out potentially starting a fire.
This is, what I think, the basis of that recall letter in that other thread.
Jayco forgot the breaker on the roof solar connection.

Just my opinion.
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Old 04-01-2016, 01:07 PM   #32
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A little bit closer now...

Quote:
Originally Posted by klassic View Post
I'm responding to your pictures of your battery compartment here.

[snip]

I betting that the one black wire that is attached to your + battery post is the roof solar and ends where you can't find it. If it is a 8 guage.

[snip]

If this is the case leave it disconnected because it has no breaker on it (that I can see and you can see) and could short out potentially starting a fire.
This is, what I think, the basis of that recall letter in that other thread.
Jayco forgot the breaker on the roof solar connection.

Just my opinion.
Very GTK, thank you, that makes a lot of sense. I think I understand now.

However, on the part above, the black wire on the + side of the battery going right to the lower (50A) breaker. I think that's just as you say the main power line to the trailer for (+) as I measured 2.7A on it just now while the trailer was on DC only with the lights on inside. Maybe the heater fan was also going.

There is good news here though. I found a white and black 8 gauge wire here (photo) that when disconnected did not affect the DC in the trailer at all. The service guy at the dealership connected them when I picked it up. There were two pairs of black and white 8 gauge wires with tape on the ends sitting there at the battery box when we purchased it. I connected 1 pair and nothing worked (DC). He connected the 2nd pair and the DC worked.

BTW, in the photo, I added the green tape after disconnecting these two. I have tried everything in the trailer (DC wise) and all seems to be working still. Also this photo is to the left inside the battery compartment towards the front. These two wires appear to go underneath the front (master bedroom).

So, now, a couple questions unanswered:
1. Verify where these go. Not all the way to the roof as I did not get battery voltage up on the roof at the solar connector when I measured up there with a voltmeter.
2. These two wires route up under the master bedroom because when I pull on it I hear it under there...where is the other end?

Ok, calling the dealer about the water in the ceiling light. I really hope it's a quick thing and doesn't mean we are going to wait a long time.
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Old 04-01-2016, 05:38 PM   #33
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I hope at least you're finding the hunt for your wires interesting. I did when I looked for mine, but the fun was over after a minute. It took me longer to find the screw diver.

Glad you found a potential major rot problem that you stopped before it got worse.
I would be telling the dealer to guarantee you there is no wet insulation up there that is going to develop mold and have them document this. Maybe even pull down the ceiling panel in that area.
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Old 04-01-2016, 10:09 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klassic View Post
I hope at least you're finding the hunt for your wires interesting. I did when I looked for mine, but the fun was over after a minute. It took me longer to find the screw diver.

Glad you found a potential major rot problem that you stopped before it got worse.
I would be telling the dealer to guarantee you there is no wet insulation up there that is going to develop mold and have them document this. Maybe even pull down the ceiling panel in that area.
Good idea, they were very accommodating and I have an appointment for Tuesday. I will be sure to mention the wet insulation I felt up in there behind the light.

I will ask them to find the wires as well. I am sure they should make quick work of it.
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Old 04-06-2016, 03:40 PM   #35
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Do you have an update on your leak?
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Old 04-08-2016, 09:12 AM   #36
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The dealer used 3 tubes of roofing caulk to fill all the voids. They seemed confident that was the source. Its forecast to rain for the next three days so I will find out soon.
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Old 04-08-2016, 04:36 PM   #37
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I got a bit closer. Fond a solar wire going to the roof

Hey, Good news, a step closer.
See these two wires (unconnected in foreground)? I found them behind the sticker saying (solar wires behind the sticker...essentially). They are 8 gauge one black one white.
I connected a solar panel on the roof to the roof connected. I expected to read 40v (open current on my panel) on the two wires but didn't. That didnt stop me. I realized maybe they wired it somehow where one of these wires is the solar + and the other is battery + and I'm supposed to use the chassis ground (or some variation of that thought).
Well, sure enough the white wire when I measure the voltage using chassis ground I get 40v ... so, I know that the white wire goes to the roof solar + and that the roof solar - probably goes to chassis ground somewhere.
Now, isn't that interesting how white in this case is + not - ... gotta love that. Thankfully I'm using a multimeter and not assuming anything.
Here's a photo.
Now this is all the more reason why no one should assume anything with a Jayco trailer for wiring. If you don't know what you're doing don't connect anything. If you know enough to use a multi-meter then by all means you can at least try and reverse engineer things.
This is really weird though. If Jayco actually helped the customer to wire up a trailer that has stickers everywhere saying "Wired for Solar" what is the harm? At this point all I get is Jayco essentially wanting nothing to do with actually helping me in any way to understand this stuff and here I am on a forum trying to get help I should be getting from Jayco (yes I emailed Jayco 2x and got two completely unhelpful replies to my question).
The good news for other owners and the OP is that this isn't rocket science and when this is sorted out I'm glad to share that info here.
Anyone have any insights what the black wire is for if white goes to the roof + (Solar connector)?
Oh, and to add to the data here. The 40v is with the open wires at the battery compartment (one white one black) connected with the white on - and the black on the + on the solar breaker (30A) [see a few posts up where I discuss the 30A solar breaker up at the battery compartment. If I disconnect them I get 0.0v again on the white (or black) wires here.
So, my new hypothesis is this. These two 8 gauge wires are from the roof. This explains why the sticker says they are there and I find them there. Now I just need to find the best place to send the output from the charge controller to the batteries.
My thought is to get some 8 gauge wire and run the output from the charge controller (I'll mount it above the cabinets up top) down to the main panel DC side battery + and - connectors. Those are 8 gauge all the way to the battery from there.
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Old 04-08-2016, 07:06 PM   #38
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Your trailer is very confusing.
Did you look in your converter and see if there are 8ga wires are on the negative bar?
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Old 04-08-2016, 10:18 PM   #39
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Also keep in mind that some solar controllers don't like a common ground from the panels.
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Old 04-09-2016, 07:57 AM   #40
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Also keep in mind that some solar controllers don't like a common ground from the panels.
That's what's confusing. Why would they ground the negative from the roof?
How is one suppose to ground the negative from the contoller now if the controller requires it to be wired with the solar panel's +/-

If this is the case and they call this "pre wired" for a GoPower controller, which is what they want you to use, then why is my unit not pre wired the same as Onefastdaddy's
On mine both +/- ends, from the roof and from the battery, are coiled up together waiting for the controller.

They should fix your pre wiring Onefastdaddy.
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