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Old 03-17-2016, 12:52 PM   #21
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Well, I'm back to report what has happened in the brake saga.

First I want to apologize for a mistake in my previous post about axle's.... The old saying about trust but verify bit me. So, my dealer told me I had Dexter Axle's on my Pinnacle..
But, I didn't actually crawl under my unit and look until this morning.
Guess what brand axles are really under my Pinnacle..... *Lippert Components*
Sorry to you all for providing incorrect information. I shouldn't have trusted and went and verified for myself...

As far as braking, I'm now using the Tekonsha P3 and have bypassed the Integrated brake controller that was installed from RAM as part of my towing package. I can say that I did have to crank it up more then I ever expected but at least I can now comfortably say I have a much better grip then I ever did with my Ram controller at a gain of 10. I had to set the P3 at 11.5 with Boost 2 to feel comfortable with the trailer in tow.

With my Ram's controller at 10 I couldn't even set my slider from tow to maneuver position or vice a versa. Now with the P3 I can honestly say I’m getting a much better response on the brakes.

I'm not 100% saying I'm convinced that I have resolved the issue. I did take it on some back city roads and attempted several manual stops and around 20 to 25mph, I have the P3 set at boost 2 and 11.5 which significantly slowed the trailer and truck down but didn't lock the trailer up. I did also get out on the interstate and went on and off two on ramps from a speed of 55 to 60 mph. It was a huge improvement from my ram controller.
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Old 03-17-2016, 12:56 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by norty1 View Post
Lippert owns Dexter.
Would there be any point in saying Dexter is better than Lippert, or are they about equal?
Brake wise, not axel

Edit.. I just went under a Pinnacle, they are Lippert
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Old 03-17-2016, 01:21 PM   #23
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RV-IN can you still pull your trailer with the with the manual slider on?
And when you say significantly slows the trailer, can you still get back on the gas an speed up again?
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Old 03-17-2016, 02:26 PM   #24
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You have the same after market controller as me. Read the Lippert brake in procedure. U might still need to wear them in since the Ram controller did little. Hope to get mine back soon. Waiting for dealer update. At least I will know mine are all brand new
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Old 03-17-2016, 02:30 PM   #25
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I can't lock up nor do I want to lock up my brakes. IMO that is not a good practice.
I never had Lippert brakes so I can't compare. It would be interesting to find the sources of what the Lippert parts are since they are the same company.
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Old 03-17-2016, 02:37 PM   #26
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When adjusting the brakes I started at 6 just like Tekonsha says, And I kept moving it up until I felt the trailer was tugging but not locking up. I got up to 11.5 before I felt like the truck and trailer were braking at equal pressure.

When using the Ram controller set at 10 it was pretty much useless, it was grabbing, but it would never hold so that I could set my reese slider hitch, it would just push the trailer backwards. At 10 that trailer shouldn't move.. If at 10 in the gain, the tires should lock up and I would have to drag it across the parking lot. *I wouldn't never do that* But, saying as an illustration only... This is my 3rd RV not new to all this.. But, just never had a trailer respond like this. This is my second trailer with this truck and never had issues in the past.

Thanks for all the input, help and assistance. My goal is simply to share information so that I may save someone else the frustration and headaches. Allot of great people here!
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Old 03-17-2016, 02:59 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by norty1 View Post
I can't lock up nor do I want to lock up my brakes. IMO that is not a good practice.
I never had Lippert brakes so I can't compare. It would be interesting to find the sources of what the Lippert parts are since they are the same company.
I don't want mine to "lock up" either. But with the controller set as high as it can go and I can't even get a squeak out the tires on gravel. Then something is wrong.
Setting 10 is all there is, there is no more headroom. You have to have headroom for when the trailer is heavier. I'm not even close to the trailer's gvwr.
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Old 03-17-2016, 03:38 PM   #28
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U just need to by a truck made in America and not Canada, like my Ram made in Ameramexica (lol)
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Old 03-17-2016, 04:10 PM   #29
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Haha.. My truck isn't metric.
Built in good ol Kentucky
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Old 03-17-2016, 04:11 PM   #30
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Just looking on the e trailer web site they tell you exactly how to check the magnet volts, amps an resistance by using a 12v battery plunged into the harness but to ensure ur truck is not hooked up. So u could just go to the last or farthest out wire brake in plug the connector and if it reads good it is ur truck. U can also check all the other wheels to see if all r also good.
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