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Old 09-13-2016, 03:21 PM   #1
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2017 north point 377RLBH

It has been a rough first two weeks of being a new RV owner. Our biggest problem right now is our leveling system is telling us were "out of stroke". Anyone else have this issue?
The mobile RV guy is coming tomorrow to fix a list of warranty issues a mile long. I just want to curl up in a ball and cry. I'm not coping well at all at this point.
I suppose it was too much to ask that when you buy something brand new that there would be no issues. If there was an issue it would be an easy fix. Make at the Jayco warranty center has walked us through a couple of things, but dang it's all becoming overwhelming.

Thanks for letting me vent. If you have any suggestions or advice I/we would greatly appreciate it.

Kim and Cathy
40 feet trouble...
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Old 09-13-2016, 04:11 PM   #2
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Congrats on the 377. Sorry to hear you're having problems.

Out of stroke usually means you started too far out of level before beginning the leveling system or you need to add extra blocks under the legs so that they aren't fully extended.

Did you have a PDI before taking possession of the rig?

You have a great trailer that may need a few kinks worked out but don't let it get you down. Remember you have a 2 year warranty.




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Old 09-13-2016, 08:01 PM   #3
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I took two 8' pressure treated 2x10's and a piece of ¾" pressure treated plywood and made six "pads" for my leveling legs. I cut the 2x10's at the width of a 2x10 (about 8½"), then cut a piece of plywood the same size. The plywood is sandwiched between the two 2x10 pieces, and the entire assembly is glued and screwed. The 2x10 pieces are cross-grain to each other, providing additional strength. I then attached rope handle to each for ease of carrying or movement.

The assembled pieces are 3¾" thick, giving the legs a shorter throw, and eliminating any error messages. Since the legs extend less, they also seem more stable, with less "wiggle" movement. Three store on the drivers side, tucked into the propane tank compartment, and the other three on the door side are stored in the spare propane compartment, so that they are all on the side that they are used on.
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Old 09-13-2016, 08:16 PM   #4
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I took two 8' pressure treated 2x10's and a piece of ¾" pressure treated plywood and made six "pads" for my leveling legs. I cut the 2x10's at the width of a 2x10 (about 8½"), then cut a piece of plywood the same size. The plywood is sandwiched between the two 2x10 pieces, and the entire assembly is glued and screwed. The 2x10 pieces are cross-grain to each other, providing additional strength. I then attached rope handle to each for ease of carrying or movement.

The assembled pieces are 3¾" thick, giving the legs a shorter throw, and eliminating any error messages. Since the legs extend less, they also seem more stable, with less "wiggle" movement. Three store on the drivers side, tucked into the propane tank compartment, and the other three on the door side are stored in the spare propane compartment, so that they are all on the side that they are used on.
Yep, sometimes need blocks.
Once you've had it long enough you just end up knowing when you need to put a block under.

Seems dumb to have to do it when you have "automatic" leveling, but it is what it is I guess.
No errors makes for a happy setup.
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Old 09-14-2016, 06:54 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Fire_Instructor View Post
I took two 8' pressure treated 2x10's and a piece of ¾" pressure treated plywood and made six "pads" for my leveling legs. I cut the 2x10's at the width of a 2x10 (about 8½"), then cut a piece of plywood the same size. The plywood is sandwiched between the two 2x10 pieces, and the entire assembly is glued and screwed. The 2x10 pieces are cross-grain to each other, providing additional strength. I then attached rope handle to each for ease of carrying or movement.

The assembled pieces are 3¾" thick, giving the legs a shorter throw, and eliminating any error messages. Since the legs extend less, they also seem more stable, with less "wiggle" movement. Three store on the drivers side, tucked into the propane tank compartment, and the other three on the door side are stored in the spare propane compartment, so that they are all on the side that they are used on.
A pic of this would be nice


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Old 09-14-2016, 10:39 AM   #6
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Thank you everyone! We were given this exact advice from a full-time RV'er about making other jack supports. I promptly ran out to a local place and had them cut me up a 2x8x12 into 10 inch sections. Which we then used liquid nails between the sandwiched boards and screwed them together.
Even after placing them where the jacks go we were still getting the same message. We have the mobile RV guy coming today to fix all of the warranty things that he can do without having to take it into the shop. We had things literally falling off of the walls by the time we got to our old house. Stuff they said they would fix before we left the lot was not done/fixed before we drove off.
I appreciate all of you taking the time to reply and offer advice. You ALL rock!

Kim & Cathy
Learning as we go...
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Old 09-14-2016, 11:22 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by Fire_Instructor View Post
I took two 8' pressure treated 2x10's and a piece of ¾" pressure treated plywood and made six "pads" for my leveling legs. I cut the 2x10's at the width of a 2x10 (about 8½"), then cut a piece of plywood the same size. The plywood is sandwiched between the two 2x10 pieces, and the entire assembly is glued and screwed. The 2x10 pieces are cross-grain to each other, providing additional strength. I then attached rope handle to each for ease of carrying or movement.

The assembled pieces are 3¾" thick, giving the legs a shorter throw, and eliminating any error messages. Since the legs extend less, they also seem more stable, with less "wiggle" movement. Three store on the drivers side, tucked into the propane tank compartment, and the other three on the door side are stored in the spare propane compartment, so that they are all on the side that they are used on.
What was the purpose of the play wood sandwiched between the 2x8x12 pads


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Old 09-14-2016, 08:39 PM   #8
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We've had the issue with the out-of-stroke on the leveling system too, and as said previously, it's been because we started with the front legs extended too much. Here's where we went wrong when we had it: we pull up to a location that's not level, and drop the front feet down nearly as far as we could go without taking into consideration just how unlevel the pad was. We pull the truck out from under the front and start the auto-leveling process. Well, the front is already pretty high, and so the rear has to go up REALLY high to make up for how high the front is. Normally, it would lower the front some, but the part with the manual pins isn't adjustable with weight on the legs and isn't part of the auto-leveling system. The fix was lowering the trailer back down, pulling the truck back under to support the trailer while raising the front legs several inches, and then repeating the process once pulling the truck back out. It's frustrating and embarrassing when it happens, but it happens...

Now, I know you can also use pads under the rear, but at some point, you could lift the entire camper off the ground. I know because that has also happened to me, where the wheels are free to spin! The manual warns about that though, so I'm not entirely sure that even though those legs are long enough, that it's a safe situation.

As mentioned above, it get's easier to know how to level her safely the more that you do it!

And as for the other issues you're seeing, I think we've all been there! Mine currently sits at the dealer for warranty work as well! Any time you buy something this complex, there will be kinks needing massaging! Not that I'm sure it helps, but I've had $35M aircraft require warranty work as soon as landing on first flight home! Heck, we even had one that we hadn't even signed for that the manufacturer told us a few days before delivery that it would require a new $3M wing! You'll get there!
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Old 09-14-2016, 09:06 PM   #9
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Like Jettech said about the front. That's why, for the most part, I don't pull the pins on the front at all. The 3.0 is fast enough the front jacks will go down fast during "ground jacks". Its pretty close to the speed of hydraulic jacks and they have no pin extensions
It not like I have to stand there and actually hold a button. It's automatic.

I only pull the pins when I can see the front will not need to lower, like at home.
Its not that easy humped over pulling pins when your older.
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Old 09-14-2016, 09:13 PM   #10
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What was the purpose of the play wood sandwiched between the 2x8x12 pads


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If you compute the engineering, it virtually DOUBLES the strength.....
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Old 09-15-2016, 09:47 AM   #11
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If you compute the engineering, it virtually DOUBLES the strength.....


Thanks for that insight


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Old 10-27-2016, 09:31 AM   #12
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Sani-con

Does anyone have the Sani-con Turbo Waste Management System on their 377RLBH? We are figuring out the options we want on our rig we are about to order. I haven't been able to find much info about it, but it seems worth it if it works.
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Old 10-27-2016, 05:30 PM   #13
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Does anyone have the Sani-con Turbo Waste Management System on their 377RLBH? We are figuring out the options we want on our rig we are about to order. I haven't been able to find much info about it, but it seems worth it if it works.
We have it, and there's some good, some bad. I like that it's self contained and clean, no disconnecting a hose and storing it away. Also, as advertised, one could pump uphill if needed, no need to add slope as the pump does the work of gravity. And it pumps quickly too! But the design that Jayco used installing the system is just poor. They've installed the pump mid-RV and ran a 1.5" line all the way to the back, drop it beneath the frame and then raise it back up into the container where the flexible hose and dump mast are stored. It essentially creates a P trap that blocks the length of the the drain pipe from venting correctly, so you end up raising the flexible line up and down a few times to help it drain and vent via bubble... Not a big deal, but then I wonder if the whole line is free of waste plus is it free of water in the winter? I plan on removing that long line and putting in a cam locking fitting directly at the pump. Yes, I'll have to disconnect the hose, but will know nothing is there to freeze.
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Old 10-30-2016, 02:01 PM   #14
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Well we ended up buying a 2017 377RLBH that is at a local dealership vs ordering. We are planning a couple of long trips for next year, which will be our first time overnighting. Do you guys leave your vehicle hooked up on overnight stays or unhook? If you leave it hooked up can you extend the slides? Thanks
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Old 10-30-2016, 05:15 PM   #15
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If we do an over night in a parking lot I stay hooked up, and have extended slides, if needed, with no problems.

Dave
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Old 10-30-2016, 06:01 PM   #16
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If we do an over night in a parking lot I stay hooked up, and have extended slides, if needed, with no problems.

Dave
So no need to drop any of the jacks or anything?
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Old 10-30-2016, 06:39 PM   #17
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So no need to drop any of the jacks or anything?
My guess is that while connected, you wouldn't want to attempt to level due to the loads applied to your truck. I suppose you could lower them as far as just touching the ground for stabilizing, but even then, I'm not sure what the norm is. Good point!
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Old 11-01-2016, 04:13 PM   #18
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Like Jettech said about the front. That's why, for the most part, I don't pull the pins on the front at all. The 3.0 is fast enough the front jacks will go down fast during "ground jacks". Its pretty close to the speed of hydraulic jacks and they have no pin extensions
It not like I have to stand there and actually hold a button. It's automatic.

I only pull the pins when I can see the front will not need to lower, like at home.
Its not that easy humped over pulling pins when your older.
I have to try that Klassic. I normally put a 2 x 8 piece of wood under front landing gear and also 4 point jacks.
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Old 11-01-2016, 04:27 PM   #19
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I have to try that Klassic. I normally put a 2 x 8 piece of wood under front landing gear and also 4 point jacks.
I see where the confusion is coming from now, The 377 has what is described as a 6 pt levelling system both in the advertising literature and here in practice.
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Old 11-01-2016, 04:39 PM   #20
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Does anyone have the Sani-con Turbo Waste Management System on their 377RLBH? We are figuring out the options we want on our rig we are about to order. I haven't been able to find much info about it, but it seems worth it if it works.
I waffled back and forth on this option when I placed my order. On paper it sounded like a good idea.

My parents have had several nice motorhomes in the last few years and I know on one of them my mom had a macerator system so I talked to her. Overall they like the system but on their newest order they went back to a conventional dump tube.

At the end of the day your using a blender/pump to chop everything up and push it through a garden hose. When (key word here) it plugs up you have no choice but to dissemble the system and clean out the offending debris to get things flowing again. While she did say it wasn't particularly finicky there were things like laundry lint, dog hair, and whatever else might make it into the system that caused predictable problems occasionally.

Since this duty is normally (always ) my moms in her rig and mine in ours and it is something that we are doing after all the other chores are done and getting ready to leave the site. I decided the last thing I would want to be doing is unclogging a macerator pump. Even is it's only 3% of the time that means at least once each year I get the unexpected treat.

The standard dump tube, while still not pleasant is very predictable and for the most part works everytime.

Anyway, those were my thoughts on the macerator system and why I didn't include it on my order.
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