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Old 01-19-2016, 08:24 PM   #21
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On a ford, they're around $20. No idea how much for a Chevy
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Old 01-19-2016, 08:27 PM   #22
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thanks, any Chevy help would be appreciated. Is it a job that I can install?
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Old 01-19-2016, 08:31 PM   #23
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377 RLBH initial impressions

Easy as pie. Plug in and done. Less than 30 seconds. Look for something like this

https://www.etrailer.com/static/imag...R38665_500.jpg

That's from etrailer and costs about 6 bucks
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Old 01-19-2016, 08:35 PM   #24
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Easy as pie. Plug in and done. Less than 30 seconds. Look for something like this

https://www.etrailer.com/static/imag...R38665_500.jpg

That's from etrailer and costs about 6 bucks
Yep. Chevy parts are ALWAYS cheaper than Ford.

(humor people, just in case it gets lost in translation)
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Old 01-19-2016, 08:36 PM   #25
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Easy as pie. Plug in and done. Less than 30 seconds. Look for something like this

https://www.etrailer.com/static/imag...R38665_500.jpg

That's from etrailer and costs about 6 bucks
Looks easy, where does it plug in?
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Old 01-19-2016, 08:38 PM   #26
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In all honesty, I'd go to the dealer and tell them that you THOUGHT your truck was supposed to be charging the trailer battery. You recently discovered it is not, and that through research you had learned that it had to be requested?!?!?! You purchased a truck for $xx,xxx and needed to request something plugged in?

See if they will just do it for you.
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Old 01-19-2016, 08:38 PM   #27
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Yep. Chevy parts are ALWAYS cheaper than Ford.



(humor people, just in case it gets lost in translation)

LOL I usually try to put ford parts on mine...maybe that's where the difference is
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Old 01-19-2016, 08:39 PM   #28
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Plugs into the fuse panel
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Old 01-23-2016, 09:16 PM   #29
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377 RLBH initial impressions

A few more observations after a night camping on our maiden voyage.

The fridge door bangs up against the bunk door if you don't hold onto it. Think we will put some type of stopper on the door frame of the bunk room

The outdoor cooktop needed to have both propane tanks open before it would light. Seems odd, we weren't using any other propane but we probably won't use that cooktop that often.

I do not like the latch for the outside kitchen. Kinda a PITA to latch and unlatch, especially if the basement door is opened

The charging station outlets are great! Plenty of outlets to charge 3 phones and 2 iPads.

The convection micro is nice...we made muffins and it worked well

The built in vacuum worked well. My wife couldn't stop using it. Going to need more bags since we only got 2

There's not a light in the front compartment. We do not have the genny prep. I'm going to add a light in there

I wish the island light and the accent north point light were on separate switches

The carpet on the dining slide gets bunch up touching the island when the slide is in.

Kinda annoying that the dining light needs to be turned on at the light instead of by a wall switch.

The bunk house sofa bed needs to be converted back to a sofa if you want to open the cabinet. We have 2 kids sleeping on it and if one wakes up first and wants clothes to get dressed, he has to wait for the other to get out of bed.

I personally dislike the TP holder mounted on the door but there's not really a better place for it.

All in all, we absolutely love this trailer and are looking forward to many years of memories with it.
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Old 01-24-2016, 01:23 PM   #30
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I think I saw the manual in my packet but I didn't read it. I'm actually thinking about removing that little teeny tiny fridge for more outside storage. We have the residential fridge so we have lots of room in it [emoji41]

Well I pulled the little outside fridge. I found the control knob. On the back of the unit. Totally useless in that location. No way to access it without removing the fridge.
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Old 01-24-2016, 03:02 PM   #31
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Tom or anyone else with similar unit - If you sanitized lines before use and you set up all the knobs for this process, will the pump run water to the refrigerator lines?? I've not had a RV with residential fridge before. If it will, how do you keep the bleach solution from getting into the refrigerator line?
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Old 01-24-2016, 05:42 PM   #32
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There's a shut off behind the drawer under the oven.
And a shut off down inside the wood panel covering the water lines under the sink.
The under sink line goes to the shut off under the oven, where it tees off and goes to the drain valve under the kitchen slide.
If you shut off the valve under the oven and open the drain under the slide, wait until bleach solution comes out then shut it off and you'll be able to sanitize that water line and none will go into your fridge.
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Old 01-24-2016, 06:57 PM   #33
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Thank you for this Klassic! I knew about the two shut offs but didn't know about the one under the slide and how that worked.
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Old 01-24-2016, 07:17 PM   #34
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Thanks Klassic! By chance do you have any pics? Just asking because I can be a dumb *ss sometimes!!
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Old 01-24-2016, 07:21 PM   #35
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Sorry if i highjacked the tread! I did get under mine today and checked the underbelly..To my surprise, I didn't find any gaps or holes that I would need to fill in!
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Old 01-24-2016, 08:32 PM   #36
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Thanks Klassic! By chance do you have any pics? Just asking because I can be a dumb *ss sometimes!!
I have no pics..she's all closed up for the winter.
I guess you guys are lucky warm weather guys, and camp all year round.

You have to take the drawer right out and lay on your stomach to reach the valve.
Hopefully you know how those drawer slides release.

There's probably don't need for you to touch the valve under the sink. (More of a winterizing thing) But if you did want to touch it you need to reach way down inside the wood cover, look down it with a flashlight. I recall something posted that it can be removed, but I never noticed if it would come off when I shut the valve off for winter.

When your done sanitizing, open the drain valve under the slide to flush out the bleach while you run fresh water through the system.

And if you're looking for the low point drains, they should be behind the removable panel under the vacuum in the basement storage.
Ignore the birds nest of wiring you will see back there.
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Old 01-24-2016, 08:37 PM   #37
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Sorry if i highjacked the tread! I did get under mine today and checked the underbelly..To my surprise, I didn't find any gaps or holes that I would need to fill in!
Look at where the levelling jack wires go into the frame.A mouse would love that hole if it was looking for a way in.
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Old 01-24-2016, 08:44 PM   #38
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Thanks for ALL your help Klassic!! Yes, down her in North Texas (for the most part) we can camp year round! I'll be out on my maiden voyage this coming weekend and the highs should hit the 70's...Sorry!
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Old 05-27-2016, 06:38 PM   #39
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Chasing down all my drains, so that I can sanitize and flush my system this weekend. I found the H & C low-point drain on the doorside, accessible through the removable panel. I also found a single low-point drain on the dinette slide. Since this is only a "single" is it save to presume that this is the potable water tank drain?

I don't appear to have the valves and drains around the fridge or under the sink, as I have the gas/electric fridge (no ice maker or water dispenser).

Am I missing any drains that I haven't yet found?

And the comments about the manual being to vague are SPOT ON! I learned nothing from the manual.....
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Old 05-27-2016, 08:25 PM   #40
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I think you found them all
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