5er GVWR on 1/2Ton

[havnfun]

Looking at moving from a 24FBS (7500lb. GVWR) to an Eagle HT 26.5RLS fifth wheel (9950lb GVWR). I'm concerned about the weight. My 1/2 ton is rated at 11,300 or so and 80% of that is 9040lbs, 90% is 10,170lbs. Will my 1/2 pull that okay or am I maxing out the truck capacity? Have the 5.4L V-8 with tow package and long bed.

Of course the dealer said no problem...the HT model is designed for a 1/2 ton but I want to know from you experts, not the yahoo trying to sell me the 5er.

Whaddya think? The truck pulls the TT with ease but I'm not sure about the 5er weight, Dealer said in a 5er the GVWR really means nothing because of the bed hitch and I should look at the unloaded weight (7310lb) as a guideline to compare to truck capacity. Is he full of s*** or should I believe him? I hesitate to believe most of what those guys tell me.

Happy RVing,
Jeff

[Heady]

Do you know what the pin weight is? I would be concerned with the pin weight coming close or exceeding your payload.

[havnfun]

Heady-
Not sure of pin weight but brochure states dry hitch weight of 1430 lbs. Is that the same? I'll look on Jayco site to see if I can find the pin weight.
Happy RVing,
Jeff

[need-a-vacation]

Havnfun,

What is the yellow payload sticker in the drivers door jamb of your 150? Will state, "All passengers and cargo not to exceed XXXXlbs".... All passengers, cargo, any accessories added to the truck, the hitch, AND the pin weight should not exceed this amount.

Jayco's site list the pin at 1340lbs ("Brochure" dry weight). Plus the 5ver hitch, which a lighter model is what, maybe 250lbs? Plus all the passengers and all cargo.

Don't see how you will be able to stay under the gvwr of the truck, and will probably be knocking on the door of the rar.

I chalk the salesman up as trying to make a sale!!!! It's a good thing to be hesitant!!!

Now maybe if he will put it in writing that you will be under all the trucks specs,... but I doubt he will.

Good luck!

[KYCAMPER]

You need to look at the truck payload capacity. Usually found on a label on the driver side door or pillar. My guess is it is in the neighborhood of 1800lbs.? That would only leave you 370 lbs for passengers and other stuff in your truck less weight added to pin due to cargo added to the camper. Rule of thumb is usually 25% of 5th wheel weight goes to the pin.
If you're not dead set on a 5er check out the 27DSRL. Same floor plan but in a TT version. Looks like there would be more TT storage and the bed of your truck would be available for "stuff" also. Hitch weight might be in the neighborhood of 600lbs.
In fact I might be inclined to make you a deal on a 2015 DSRL as we are looking to upgrade to the Pinnacle 36FBTS.

[havnfun]

Okay...payload capacity shows 2405 lbs. Taking off 1430 for pin wt. and 250 for hitch, that leaves me with 725 lbs for passengers and cargo in truck.

Is that correct and will that suffice? It's usually just the wife and I (350 lbs.) plus about another 50 lbs. in cargo. What about the 36 gals. of gas?

Happy Rving,
Jeff

[slinger]

Wow! 2400 is a lot of payload for a half ton!

I would suggest going with the aluminum Andersen Ultimate hitch. Since you have a long bed, you will be able to do full 90 degree turns. The hitch weighs less than 40 pounds, so it will save precious payload capacity.

Also, it would be good to get actual loaded pin weights from others that tow the same trailer. I would think it would be more like 2000 pounds. Hopefully, someone can chime in with real numbers.

[RedHorse1]

The payload number is for the whole truck. a 5th puts its weight mostly on the rear axle which has its weight rating (Rear GAWR). A visit to the scale will get your current axle weights. The 1430# will certainly go up as you add your "stuff".
I would expect a loaded weight around 8000# and a pin wt about 2000# (25%).
The CAT Scale is your friend.

[need-a-vacation]

Originally Posted by havnfun

Okay...payload capacity shows 2405 lbs. Taking off 1430 for pin wt. and 250 for hitch, that leaves me with 725 lbs for passengers and cargo in truck.

Is that correct and will that suffice? It's usually just the wife and I (350 lbs.) plus about another 50 lbs. in cargo. What about the 36 gals. of gas?

Happy Rving,
Jeff

The yellow sticker shows 2405lbs for your truck??? Well, that will help!!! You must have the HD Payload package as well, or it was part of the HD Tow package in '09 maybe.... What is your trucks GVWR? And what is the rear axle rating?

I was just guesstimating at the 5ver hitch weight. Hopefully those more familiar with 5vers can chime in...

Have you ever weighed your current trailer? How much weight have you added to your with all the dishes, bedding, etc?

[Heady]

2405 is really good for a half ton! My F150 is only 1650. As others have said, you must have the HD Payload option. That helps a lot!

[havnfun]

Originally Posted by need-a-vacation

The yellow sticker shows 2405lbs for your truck??? Well, that will help!!! You must have the HD Payload package as well, or it was part of the HD Tow package in '09 maybe.... What is your trucks GVWR? And what is the rear axle rating?

I was just guesstimating at the 5ver hitch weight. Hopefully those more familiar with 5vers can chime in...

Have you ever weighed your current trailer? How much weight have you added to your with all the dishes, bedding, etc?

Truck GVWR is 8200 lbs. Rear axle is 4800 lbs.

Happy RVing,
Jeff

[NVGun40]

IMO, you are coming very close to the weight limits of your TV. I think you know it and/or suspect that as well; otherwise you wouldn't have asked or started researching it. Your intuition is telling you something.
Being close to the weight limits of your truck is going to make you a bit nervous and stressed while towing. There will be many variables you will be thinking about. Full propane? What if you fill the water tank on the 5er? Even if you don't use the on board water tank, what about the waste tanks at the end of the trip (if the campground doesn't have a dump and you have to travel a while? etc? What happens when you are at your max weight and a tire blows and causes a shift in the load?

Imagine what can happen as time sets in and you have had this thing long enough and settled down and are now comfortable with how everything rides. Then there comes that one time when something happens and you sit there confused wondering how it could have happened because you have done it hundreds of times before and never had a problem.
Personally, I would rather have to much truck. That way when the occasional FUBAR situation arises, I can sit back in quiet calm and know my rig can handle it. Its not just my safety and calm I am concerned about.

In the end, it will be your choice. I sincerely hope it all works out great for you.

[ROC-REQS]

Originally Posted by havnfun

Truck GVWR is 8200 lbs. Rear axle is 4800 lbs.

Happy RVing,
Jeff

Jeff,

Here's what I would do (i.e., what I did when looking at going from a TT to our 5vr).

(1) Take your truck to a scale (CAT Scale if there's one in your area) and have it weighed so you have weights for both front & rear wheels/axles.
Have a full tank of fuel and if possible have it weighted as you would have it loaded when traveling / towing, but that's not critical, you can add those estimated weights in later.
This will give you that actual weight of your truck. This information will be very good to know to help answer your question.

Now you can use these weights to estimate if you'll be over loaded or not.

(2) Now subtract your trucks total weighted weight from your GVWR (8200#).
This will give you your actual load capacity.

(3) Then subtract the weight of your rear wheels from your RAGVWR (4800#).
This will give you your actual loading capacity on the rear axle.

(4) Then Add Truck's total weight + Weight of Wife & Cargo + 5vr Hitch weight + 5vr Pin Weight (can est. 20% of 5vr GVWR)
And compare this against your trucks GVWR (#8200) - you want this to be a positive value to know you're not overloading the truck.
TV GVWR (8200#) - TV Total Loaded Weight > 0 #

(5) Then Add Trucks rear axle weight + 5vr Hitch + 5vr Pin Weight (can est. 20% of 5vr GVWR)
Compare this total against the trucks RAGVWR (4800#)
Again you want this comparison to result in a positive number
RAGVWR (4800 #) - Total Loaded Rear Axle Weight > 0 #

This, in my opinion, is the best way to figure out where you stand if you'll be overloading your truck or not.

When I did this with our previous 2500HD, I found out I only had ~1,200 # capacity and I would be 1,000 # overloaded if we bought the 5vr we wanted (i.e., have) - so ended up getting a 3500HD. It was an expensive truck weighting for me

Hope this helps some.

[havnfun]

Originally Posted by ROC-REQS

Jeff,

Here's what I would do (i.e., what I did when looking at going from a TT to our 5vr).

(1) Take your truck to a scale (CAT Scale if there's one in your area) and have it weighed so you have weights for both front & rear wheels/axles.
Have a full tank of fuel and if possible have it weighted as you would have it loaded when traveling / towing, but that's not critical, you can add those estimated weights in later.
This will give you that actual weight of your truck. This information will be very good to know to help answer your question.

Now you can use these weights to estimate if you'll be over loaded or not.

(2) Now subtract your trucks total weighted weight from your GVWR (8200#).
This will give you your actual load capacity.

(3) Then subtract the weight of your rear wheels from your RAGVWR (4800#).
This will give you your actual loading capacity on the rear axle.

(4) Then Add Truck's total weight + Weight of Wife & Cargo + 5vr Hitch weight + 5vr Pin Weight (can est. 20% of 5vr GVWR)
And compare this against your trucks GVWR (#8200) - you want this to be a positive value to know you're not overloading the truck.
TV GVWR (8200#) - TV Total Loaded Weight > 0 #

(5) Then Add Trucks rear axle weight + 5vr Hitch + 5vr Pin Weight (can est. 20% of 5vr GVWR)
Compare this total against the trucks RAGVWR (4800#)
Again you want this comparison to result in a positive number
RAGVWR (4800 #) - Total Loaded Rear Axle Weight > 0 #

This, in my opinion, is the best way to figure out where you stand if you'll be overloading your truck or not.

When I did this with our previous 2500HD, I found out I only had ~1,200 # capacity and I would be 1,000 # overloaded if we bought the 5vr we wanted (i.e., have) - so ended up getting a 3500HD. It was an expensive truck weighting for me

Hope this helps some.

Yes, guess I have to find a CAT scale and do more homework. Better to find out now rather than later. Thanks.
Happy RVing,
Jeff

[RedHorse1]

Originally Posted by havnfun

Yes, guess I have to find a CAT scale and do more homework. Better to find out now rather than later. Thanks.
Happy RVing,
Jeff

The cat scale web site has a scale locator.

[havnfun]

Originally Posted by RedHorse1

The cat scale web site has a scale locator.

Found 2 close by.

Happy RVing,
Jeff

[need-a-vacation]

Originally Posted by havnfun

Yes, guess I have to find a CAT scale and do more homework. Better to find out now rather than later. Thanks.
Happy RVing,
Jeff

Depends.... If you need an excuse to buy a new truck then you may have one if you find out later!!! Lol

Good luck!!!

[havnfun]

Hahaha. Love the thought but new truck is definitely not in our flight plan, especially seeing how I am retiring June 30th.

Happy RVing,
Jeff

[NC Hauler]

Originally Posted by havnfun

Looking at moving from a 24FBS (7500lb. GVWR) to an Eagle HT 26.5RLS fifth wheel (9950lb GVWR). I'm concerned about the weight. My 1/2 ton is rated at 11,300 or so and 80% of that is 9040lbs, 90% is 10,170lbs. Will my 1/2 pull that okay or am I maxing out the truck capacity? Have the 5.4L V-8 with tow package and long bed.

Of course the dealer said no problem...the HT model is designed for a 1/2 ton but I want to know from you experts, not the yahoo trying to sell me the 5er.

Whaddya think? The truck pulls the TT with ease but I'm not sure about the 5er weight, Dealer said in a 5er the GVWR really means nothing because of the bed hitch and I should look at the unloaded weight (7310lb) as a guideline to compare to truck capacity. Is he full of s*** or should I believe him? I hesitate to believe most of what those guys tell me.



Happy RVing,
Jeff

If GVW of 5er is 9950#, take 20% of that and it'll be closer to REAL LIFE pin weight...So your pin weight " could" be as high as 1990#.. As stated, you need to weigh your truck, ready to go camping, full tank of fuel, all family and pets, and get it weighed..check drive axle weight, (ear axle), add another 200# if you don't have a 5er hitch in the bed of your truck, now, as stated earlier, subtract that amount from the trucks RAWR and that'll give you the weight allowable for pin weight.

Believe you need a 2500.. If you get into towing in the mountains, you may not like the towing experience.

[havnfun]

Originally Posted by NC Hauler

If GVW of 5er is 9950#, take 20% of that and it'll be closer to REAL LIFE pin weight...So your pin weight " could" be as high as 1990#.. As stated, you need to weigh your truck, ready to go camping, full tank of fuel, all family and pets, and get it weighed..check drive axle weight, (ear axle), add another 200# if you don't have a 5er hitch in the bed of your truck, now, as stated earlier, subtract that amount from the trucks RAWR and that'll give you the weight allowable for pin weight.

Believe you need a 2500.. If you get into towing in the mountains, you may not like the towing experience.

Will head to the CAT scale but I have the same feeling you have. We do the Colorado mountains often so maybe I'll just stick with my 24FBS and call it a day.
I don't need no stinkin' 5er.