A/C not keeping inside temp down

[Alicamp]

I have a 2019 Jayco Eagle 355MBQS. Two AC units. The bedroom stays cool and is not ducted to the rest of the RV. The AC in the living room runs on Hi Cool Auto ALL DAY LONG and cannot get the inside temp below 77 when it's above 80 outside. Since the bedroom os cool I keep it running on Hi Cool Auto also and have a fan blowing that cold air down the hallway toward the living room but it does not do much. The living room AC is 13,500 BTU and our servicer said the only upgrade is to a 15,000 BTU AC. I want to do this for the living room AC. Has anyone else done this? How much did it improve the temp inside? We had a little 30ft Jayco JayFlight before this that only has one AC and would freeze you out even when it was 90s outside. Why won't this Eagle stay cool? BTW we had AC checked and cleaned, it was super clean filters are good and it's blowing cold air. Just not enough to keep it as cool as I want. Feedback appreciated.

[Grumpy]

Is it ducted? Make sure the ducting is not obstructed or pulling some of the cold air back into the return side. There are many threads on what you need to check.

[Parrott]

Originally Posted by Alicamp

I have a 2019 Jayco Eagle 355MBQS. Two AC units. The bedroom stays cool and is not ducted to the rest of the RV. The AC in the living room runs on Hi Cool Auto ALL DAY LONG and cannot get the inside temp below 77 when it's above 80 outside. Since the bedroom os cool I keep it running on Hi Cool Auto also and have a fan blowing that cold air down the hallway toward the living room but it does not do much. The living room AC is 13,500 BTU and our servicer said the only upgrade is to a 15,000 BTU AC. I want to do this for the living room AC. Has anyone else done this? How much did it improve the temp inside? We had a little 30ft Jayco JayFlight before this that only has one AC and would freeze you out even when it was 90s outside. Why won't this Eagle stay cool? BTW we had AC checked and cleaned, it was super clean filters are good and it's blowing cold air. Just not enough to keep it as cool as I want. Feedback appreciated.

Search for RV Airflow. It installs in the duct system to greatly improve the cooling capacity. As Grump said, there are numerous posts on improving capacity of the cooling just by redoing the tape used in the ducts and making sure the divider is installed properly. Search YouTube also. Lots of good videos there.

https://rvairflow.com/

[pconroy]

I agree with Grumpy and Parrott. And I was in your shoes two years ago.

You already know the AC is working; it's blowing cold air. If you pull the inside cover off, you'll probably see a shoddy job of ducting.

Follow the Youtube videos or buy the Airflow and things will improve greatly.

I did the DIY version of Airflow, cleaned up the ducting, redid the baffle and now the AC is fine.

[rkymntsno]

Originally Posted by pconroy

I agree with Grumpy and Parrott. And I was in your shoes two years ago.

You already know the AC is working; it's blowing cold air. If you pull the inside cover off, you'll probably see a shoddy job of ducting.

Follow the Youtube videos or buy the Airflow and things will improve greatly.

I did the DIY version of Airflow, cleaned up the ducting, redid the baffle and now the AC is fine.

There's no way to do the RV Airflow on a whisperquiet AC that I know of. And that's the one that is so crappy. If I had both ACs like the bedroom AC it would freeze us out of the living room. I have the same problem in our 355mbqs. I hate that I can't cool it down with two ACs even with reflectix in the windows in the summer. And yes, already done the ducting repairs.

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by rkymntsno

There's no way to do the RV Airflow on a whisperquiet AC that I know of.

You should be able to access it from the roof. A little more work, but it should be possible.

[SLGoff]

I had somewhat of the same issue (not enough cooling from living area unit). Took TT it in for service since still under warranty. The technician found a temperature sensor that was suppose to be attached to the coils had become detached and fallen down. The sensor was being affected by both the supply and return air. Problem solved.

[Parrott]

Originally Posted by rkymntsno

There's no way to do the RV Airflow on a whisperquiet AC that I know of. And that's the one that is so crappy. If I had both ACs like the bedroom AC it would freeze us out of the living room. I have the same problem in our 355mbqs. I hate that I can't cool it down with two ACs even with reflectix in the windows in the summer. And yes, already done the ducting repairs.

Yes. You are right. I’m not a big fan of the way the whisper quiets are installed. Access to the components are a real pain.

[riddleswest]

I just completed the RV Airflow system installation on my whisper quiet on our 2018 28.5 Eagle HT. There are considerable modifications that may need to be done to the block to make it work properly. The company was super helpful and offered to do all the mods once I sent them my measurements. I ended up doing the cutting myself and it turned out really well. My airflow numbers improved by over 60% on some vents. I also learned that the A/C ducts were leaking into the attic space some so I used the foil tape provided (and some more that I had) and diligently sealed all the openings. No more air leaks!

[Jerry713]

The RV airflow isn’t going to make that big of a difference even if it is a possibility. OP your 13.5k ac is undersized. Best bet is to upgrade to a 15k unit. That will make a difference. Sounds like you’re looking for those “freeze you out” inside temps and that probably isn’t going to happen on that big of a trailer. Keep in mind you basically have one unit trying to cool everything cept for the front bedroom.

Other than that a Shade RV roof cover might be an option that will also help keep the inside cool if you keep it in one spot for at least a week at a time. They’re too big of a pain to put up for a two or three day trip in my opinion.

[riddleswest]

Are you sure the main A/C is 13.5K BTU? The standard according to the Jayco information is 15K.

[kblast523]

Originally Posted by Jerry713

The RV airflow isn’t going to make that big of a difference even if it is a possibility.

I put an RV Airflow block in my 2018 Jayfeather 23RL in early 2021. Improved noise AND cooling and here's a picture. No shade, no wind, noproblem. Increased temperature drop inside by 9 degrees even in the Texas sun (Caprock Canyon State Park).

[Jerry713]

Originally Posted by kblast523

I put an RV Airflow block in my 2018 Jayfeather 23RL in early 2021. Improved noise AND cooling and here's a picture. No shade, no wind, noproblem. Increased temperature drop inside by 9 degrees.

Man that’s awesome. I used to have a travel trailer with almost the exact dimensions and floor plan. I can definitely understand that mod making a difference on a smaller floor plan with shorter ceiling height. Difference is the OP is in a 42’ fifth wheel. Much more air to cool. In my opinion that mod isn’t going to solve their problems.

[Route 66 Traveler]

Many YouTube videos made by owners of 5th wheels that show a tremendous improvement in cooling. The improvement in my 30 foot travel trailer saved me from adding a second AC. My AC is a 15.5 Coleman.


As a former purchaser of RV Airflow they sent me a discount code to share that is for a 15% discount. Enter FRIEND-PBDB7WN in checkout. Expires 6-16-2023

[Jerry713]

Originally Posted by Route 66 Traveler

Many YouTube videos made by owners of 5th wheels that show a tremendous improvement in cooling. The improvement in my 30 foot travel trailer saved me from adding a second AC. My AC is a 15.5 Coleman.

Lol I’ve seen some of those. Not saying the product doesn’t work or make a difference. If you read the OP’s post he says he can only keep it at 77 when it’s 80 outside. That’s not an air flow issue that’s a BTU issue. You can only get so much performance out of an undersized AC unit.

[Route 66 Traveler]

Originally Posted by Jerry713

Lol I’ve seen some of those. Not saying the product doesn’t work or make a difference. If you read the OP’s post he says he can only keep it at 77 when it’s 80 outside. That’s not an air flow issue that’s a BTU issue. You can only get so much performance out of an undersized AC unit.

That's what I was seeing before I fixed all the ceiling vent leaks that were blowing cold air into the attic space. I then fixed the foam separator between the hot and cold side in the AC. That made an improvement, but not nearly as great as what I saw after the RV Airflow install. I now see a 20-25 degree difference between outside and inside air consistently, plus the AC cools the RV in about 1/2 the time it took before the install. Keeps me cool in the summer Arizona sun.

[MQuick]

Have you checked the sponge air filters on the return air vent(s)? I have 2 return air vents on the ceiling. These are not right at the AC unit.

[4tarheelfan]

Does your unit have a a place for exhaust vent, that you control? If so, add third AC and put in additional 30 amp plug and wire to that plug. Use 30 amp plug at campground. I have a Pinnacle, thats what I did. The unit has three AC unit, no issues with heat.

[Mikec557]

Originally Posted by Alicamp

I have a 2019 Jayco Eagle 355MBQS. Two AC units. The bedroom stays cool and is not ducted to the rest of the RV. The AC in the living room runs on Hi Cool Auto ALL DAY LONG and cannot get the inside temp below 77 when it's above 80 outside. Since the bedroom os cool I keep it running on Hi Cool Auto also and have a fan blowing that cold air down the hallway toward the living room but it does not do much. The living room AC is 13,500 BTU and our servicer said the only upgrade is to a 15,000 BTU AC. I want to do this for the living room AC. Has anyone else done this? How much did it improve the temp inside? We had a little 30ft Jayco JayFlight before this that only has one AC and would freeze you out even when it was 90s outside. Why won't this Eagle stay cool? BTW we had AC checked and cleaned, it was super clean filters are good and it's blowing cold air. Just not enough to keep it as cool as I want. Feedback appreciated.

The most likely reason, and most common reason is that the factory did a poor job taping every end of the ducting. The cheapest thing you can do is remove the air conditioner grill inside the camper, and remove every ceiling duct opening (usually a 4in circle), and remove the beauty ring on the bathroom fan so you can see the duct feeding the 4in vent in the bathroom. I think you will see a million places where your cold air actually leaking/blowing into your attic space. Buy a roll of aluminum tape at Home Depot or Lowes, about 1.5-2in wide and start taping up all those leaks. If there's a choice on tape thickness, thinner is easier to work with.

[cmikal]

Originally Posted by Jerry713

Lol I’ve seen some of those. Not saying the product doesn’t work or make a difference. If you read the OP’s post he says he can only keep it at 77 when it’s 80 outside. That’s not an air flow issue that’s a BTU issue. You can only get so much performance out of an undersized AC unit.

Actually, it can be an airflow issue. My previous TT had cooling problems. When it got above high 70s/low 80s, my single AC unit couldn't keep the rig below about 76. I installed the RV airflow device and while I had everything apart, I taped all of the seems in the plenum where the ductwork met the wood framing so there were no gaps for airflow to escape into the ceiling, I also moved the wiring that was hanging down into the airflow space and tacked the wires to the side of the plenum (wood framing). I also pulled down every outlet and taped around the openings so there were no gaps there either. I placed a flashlight inside the duct and stuck my camera in there and found out one of the seams where 2 pieces of ductwork met was lifted up causing a gap. Some of the air was flowing into the ceiling at the gap. I was able to get some tape in there and tape the seam down.

One last thing that I noticed was that the ductwork extended beyond the end of the last outlet and just ended in a flat surface creating huge turbulence. Turbulence reduces air flow. I inserted fiberglass insulation into the duct and shoved it toward the dead end until it filled the space up to the outlet, then I installed a small piece of styrofoam and taped it up to form a nice rounded corner as it exited that last duct so the air flow was forced into a smooth transition as it exited the outlet.

All of that work increased the airflow substantially and redirected intake and output air to the places where it needed to go. I was able to drop the temp from from around 76 degrees down to around 70 to 72 degrees without installing a bigger AC unit.

So yes. Air flow matters. A lot.