AC cycles on and off

[Texas 707]

All-FYI

Just wanted to pass on a simple fix today our AC unit would cycle on and off real fast until it tripped the breaker, it was a simple fix, take the inside cover off the inside and re-seal with the insulating tape so air does not escape the unit, the cold air was going outside sending a false signal that it was too cold which was making the AC unit cycle on and off, very cheap fix if this happens to you guys you may want to check this first. We have a pinnacle 38 FLSA

[AKRUEBBE]

Originally Posted by Texas 707

All-FYI

Just wanted to pass on a simple fix today our AC unit would cycle on and off real fast until it tripped the breaker, it was a simple fix, take the inside cover off the inside and re-seal with the insulating tape so air does not escape the unit, the cold air was going outside sending a false signal that it was too cold which was making the AC unit cycle on and off, very cheap fix if this happens to you guys you may want to check this first. We have a pinnacle 38 FLSA

Apparently your A/C's are not ducted, right?

[Texas 707]

Who knows, I think they are ducted right, the tape that seals the unit was pulled down where the it meets the fan

[AKRUEBBE]

Originally Posted by Texas 707

Who knows, I think they are ducted right, the tape that seals the unit was pulled down where the it meets the fan

Ducted A/C's do not have an inside cover to access.

[Camper_bob]

I've been looking at this thread for a long time now trying to figure out what you guys are talking about.

LOTS of people have problems with air leaking from the output side right back into the input. So the unit is sucking in cold output air and will short-cycle. The fix is to use HVAC aluminum tape to secure the divider in place.

There's also a temp sensor in the output side that may need adjusting. Sometimes it's stuffed somewhere or bent so it can't take an output reading.

Also, on ducted units, there are lots of problems with sealing the ducts to the output of the unit. LOTS of leaks in that area. Solution is to use the HVAC tape to seal the ductwork to the output side of the unit.

Lots of problems in ducted units with the registers not being sealed into the ducts causing lost efficiency and leaks as well. Solution is to remove the registers and remove any "sleeves" that go up into the duct and tape the ceiling to the duct opening. Reinstall the register to hide the tape.

And yes, there is an inside cover for ducted units that you need to remove to get to all of that stuff. Maybe not for Whisper Quiet ones, but standard ducted units can be accessed from the inside of the camper by removing the cover in the ceiling.

[mharrison]

Originally Posted by Texas 707

All-FYI

Just wanted to pass on a simple fix today our AC unit would cycle on and off real fast until it tripped the breaker, it was a simple fix, take the inside cover off the inside and re-seal with the insulating tape so air does not escape the unit, the cold air was going outside sending a false signal that it was too cold which was making the AC unit cycle on and off, very cheap fix if this happens to you guys you may want to check this first. We have a pinnacle 38 FLSA

I've been reading up on that issue, mine does the same thing at night.

Originally Posted by AKRUEBBE

Ducted A/C's do not have an inside cover to access.

Mine does, I have two access panels, one on the return side to access the filter and one for the discharge side.

[mharrison]

At the top of the white foam there's a gap I can put my fingers through to the other side. Reading this post reminded me to check mine, I've read on numerous forums and watched videos related to this problem.

[TexasRT]

Ducted A/C's do not have an inside cover to access.

Not completely true, the 13.5 in our bedroom is ducted and it has a cover that can be removed. It is the ducted unit with the dump vents in the cover so it's either or.

[mharrison]

Sealed up the AC divider with HVAC tape today, with the intake cover off I could feel a LOT of cold air being pulled from the top and bottom of the divider. Once sealed I could tell an increase output to the ducted vents, hopefully the next time we camp our problem will be solved. Next I'll pull the ducted vent covers and see how well they are sealed.

[Camper_bob]

Originally Posted by mharrison

Sealed up the AC divider with HVAC tape today, with the intake cover off I could feel a LOT of cold air being pulled from the top and bottom of the divider. Once sealed I could tell an increase output to the ducted vents, hopefully the next time we camp our problem will be solved. Next I'll pull the ducted vent covers and see how well they are sealed.

I can tell you that in my 2014 Jay Flight, the registers (vents) were pretty bad. The sleeves went WAY up into the duct work (blocking and disturbing air flow). And they just slid up into a hole that was bigger than the sleeves, so there was leakage all over the place. Just that one fix made a lot of difference. But I did a lot of the other stuff that's been recommended here and elsewhere.

For as big a trailer as that was, the one 15K unit actually did pretty well for what it was. My "adjustments and improvements" made it so it was mostly tolerable on most days. It gets HOT here... But in the end, if I had kept that trailer, I would have put a second unit in the bedroom. My unit came with "2nd AC Prep", so it would have been relatively easy to do.

[Whatsupchuck]

My 2019 Eagle 330RSTS has the "Whisper Quiet" 15K unit over the living area. It does "NOT" have a plenum in the ceiling and can only be accessed from the roof outside. The bedroom has a 15K older ducted that does have the plenum. I had to open up both topside and checked the labels and they units are exactly the same. Difference is inside only.