Auto level issue

[bjn945]

Hello to All,

I brought home a new 2023 Pinnacle 32RLTS last week. I parked the unit and disconnected from my truck without an issue. I then wanted to open the unit up so I pressed the Auto level button and heard some noise and then the power went out (12v). I had power inside the unit to lights and ceiling fan etc.
After multiple calls to the dealership I finally got some help and was told to reset the battery disconnect, that restored power to the unit. I then tried the function again and same result.
Has anyone had this issue? Did it get resolved? Is it as simple as a faulty battery disconnect?

[Grumpy]

Are you plugged into shore power? Could be a weak battery.

[LampsAW]

I’m voting for a dead or low battery. I had the same problem and had to physically disconnect the auto level connection to reset the controller.

[bjn945]

I am plugged into shore power, my house-not 50 amp. Batteries are both new and test out good.
Thanks for the response.

[AZDIESELPIG]

Originally Posted by bjn945

I am plugged into shore power, my house-not 50 amp. Batteries are both new and test out good.
Thanks for the response.

My guess is its still a bad battery. I had this issue(brand new) on my unit and one batter was bad - since it sounds like you are plugged in to a regular house 120 outlet?? You are still not getting enough juice. If you were plugged in to a 50amp it would probably work.

These hydraulic systems require good power to run correctly.

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by AZDIESELPIG

since it sounds like you are plugged in to a regular house 120 outlet?? You are still not getting enough juice. If you were plugged in to a 50amp it would probably work.

The converter output is the same whether using a 15 amp outlet or a 50 amp outlet since the converter output is 12v DC.

[AZDIESELPIG]

Originally Posted by Grumpy

The converter output is the same whether using a 15 amp outlet or a 50 amp outlet since the converter output is 12v DC.

I am not sure about that, you certainly cant run anything off that household out let but lights. If you cant run the AC(if it does run its not running efficiently) off that household outlet your not running that auto level and even more so if one of the batteries is not holding a charge.

I bet if that converter shows you the amps it is going below 11 amps and then the auto level errors out.

Mine did the same thing and would only work when connected to 50amp shore power.

The home outlet is only giving half of the 50amp so it cant keep up.

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by AZDIESELPIG

I am not sure about that.

The breaker inside the RV that the converter is connected to is only 15 amp with a 14 gauge wire. Whether your are plugged into a 15 amp outlet or 50 amp outlet the maximum amp draw for the converter is 15 amps or the breaker would trip.

[AZDIESELPIG]

Originally Posted by Grumpy

The breaker inside the RV that the converter is connected to is only 15 amp with a 14 gauge wire. Whether your are plugged into a 15 amp outlet or 50 amp outlet the maximum amp draw for the converter is 15 amps or the breaker would trip.

The auto level draws a lot of amps...the converter can't do without good batteries.

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by AZDIESELPIG

The auto level draws a lot of amps...the converter can't do without good batteries.

But that has nothing to do with what type outlet you're plugged into.

I also said a possible weak battery in my first post. Just like slide outs, the owners manual says fully charged and on shore power, for proper operation.

[AZDIESELPIG]

Originally Posted by Grumpy

But that has nothing to do with what type outlet you're plugged into.

Not in my experience... I could do it on 50amps...anything else failed every time.

How far is the power cord to the RV? Is it just a regular gauge extension cord?

So your converting from 120 to 30amp to 50 amp and there is no loss in amps?

On previous Grand Design trailer we tired running one AC off a outlet on the back Poarch and the AC ran but never really cooled and the extension cord got hot as it was to far of a run on to small of wire.

So after that I installed a 50AMP outlet at the RV pad. The OP should load test the batteries.

[Grumpy]

Originally Posted by AZDIESELPIG

Not in my experience... I could do it on 50amps...anything else failed every time.

How far is the power cord to the RV? Is it just a regular gauge extension cord?

So your converting from 120 to 30amp to 50 amp and there is no loss in amps?

On previous Grand Design trailer we tired running one AC off a outlet on the back Poarch and the AC ran but never really cooled and the extension cord got hot as it was to far of a run on to small of wire.

So after that I installed a 50AMP outlet at the RV pad. The OP should load test the batteries.

You are talking about 120 volt amps, apples and oranges as to 12 volt DC amps.

[AZDIESELPIG]

What you are missing is whatever you think he's getting at the converter...he's not...probably less , so the converter isn't working at its potential blah blah

It's just power loss from A to B to C

[Nevr2late]

Certainly the trailer can do required functions (less A/C) on batteries. Otherwise what’s the point?

[hoppers4]

Grumpy is correct. The converter won't put out any more DC current whether it's on a standard 15 amp 115VAC outlet or 50 amp 115VAC outlet. I also suspect bad battery. New or old, batteries can fail at any point in it's life.

[Learjet]

I think if you look at the tablet inside the trailer on the motors page you should see an error code for low DC voltage if that is the problem.

[Edutron]

1) Make sure batteries are charged
2) If so, once front landing gear are down for support,
3) Press retract all (all rear legs)
4) Once they are fully retracted, press auto level button once, and then press it again and watch the coach do its dance. Landing gear and all legs are all 12v - electro/hydraulic.
5) Try it with all shore power disconnected and no generator running. Helps to isolate further problems. Of course the red key and battery breakers must be on.

[bjn945]

Thank you for all the help from those who live it. It seems that some of the employees from the dealership do not use their products and/or not very familiar with them. Firsthand knowledge is always preferred and appreciated.

[AlexSWorks]

We found we had the same issue. Connected to truck and recharged the battery and all was fine. Left the 5th wheel in storage and same thing. Come to find out there were two things that will continue to draw from the battery even though you turn the battery off. The BMPro tablet needs to be turned off and you winegard system. If either of those are on, your battery will get drained.

[Mtovaraz]

I had the same issue. First the dealer installed a separate breaker for the leveling pump as directed by Jayco. Worked fine for 1 trip, then started tripping that breaker. I tested the amp load on the pump. Pump was pad causing high amp draw tripping the breaker. Dealer did same check and replaced the pump. No issues since.