Battery cable path

[DrSmart]

We'll be heading to the trailer soon and I'll have some time to check battery grounding and battery cut-off wiring. There are 2 ground (negative) cables and 1 positive cable that exit the battery compartment through a hole on the right side, surrounded by some kind of sealant. In the propane compartment, the battery cut-off switch. Do I have to pull the battery disconnect switch out to access the other end of the cables or is there a junction box somewhere in between?


Thanks

[DrSmart]

Finally got out to the trailer and answered my own question. The distribution of the 12 volt battery power on our unit, happens above the battery compartment. It can be seen by entering the front compartment cargo side and looking above the battery compartment. The 12 volt battery power is fed to 2 buss bars. One is the switched side of the battery cutoff and the other buss bar is un-switched. There appears to be 3 high current auto reset breakers on each bar feeding power to the trailer. There is a diagram with information regarding the distribution but it is partly obscured by a framing cross beam. It had a part number on it. I've sent a request to Jayco for an image of the diagram.

This will will help to identify the parasitic loads on the battery when the cut off switch is in the off position.

[Jagiven]

A multimeter or better yet a multimeter with a "clamp" would be ideal for this job.

You can use the multimeter to check for voltage. If you use the clamp you can determine how much parasite drain you have.

I do not have this one, but for the average RV'er/home owner it looks good enough, and has an accessory to test amps while things are plugged into an outlet. Along with a tool to check if an outlet is wired correctly and to test your GFI outlets.

https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Ma...s%2C198&sr=8-6

Added note;
After looking at your pictures again. The sticker above your bus bar. The side that says " Breakaway Switch, Sidewall Solar Prep, Smart Light Control" probably bypasses the disconnect switch. Reason I say that is the emergency brake switch should always be hot, incase someone forgot to flip the disconnect switch back to live before traveling (safety thing).

[DrSmart]

Hi Jagiven. I'm using the Klein 380. It does ac and dc current with the clamp.

https://www.kleintools.com/catalog/c...anging-400-amp

[Jagiven]

Excellent. While disconnected from shore power, and disconnect switch flipped, I would go through and document each wire, if there is any current through them. Start at the wire to the battery. That will tell you the total current draw. Then identify each wire. Maybe two different color tapes. If there is a current mark it with one color, and no current another piece of tape. Note the current of each wire.

Ideally if you can ask Jayco for the 12V wiring diagram you could quickly determine what is live all the time. You will need the vin number to get the schematic. Another option; it looks like it would be easy to disconnect the wires. So to figure out what devices are always live, disconnect all the live wires, double check the battery amps that there is no draw. Then connect one wire back up at a time to figure out what is still working. (maybe a pain with the check every electrical device, especially the Smart Light Control) Things like the CO2 detector should be easy to test.

Added note: If Jayco gives you grief about giving you the 12 volt schematic, just tell them you need to add a dedicated power feed for a medical device.

[DrSmart]

Jagiven. Great ideas. I'll see what kind of response Jayco sends and go from there. It should be easy enough to measure each feed. The Klein has a low current range of 40 amps and high of 400. I did measure 1 amp draw at the battery with the cut-off switch in the off position. Over a few days, that kills the battery.
If I do alter the wiring, I'll be sure to maintain a hot connection to the break away switch.

[Jagiven]

Originally Posted by DrSmart

Jagiven. Great ideas. I'll see what kind of response Jayco sends and go from there. It should be easy enough to measure each feed. The Klein has a low current range of 40 amps and high of 400. I did measure 1 amp draw at the battery with the cut-off switch in the off position. Over a few days, that kills the battery.
If I do alter the wiring, I'll be sure to maintain a hot connection to the break away switch.

Good luck, make sure to update how things go both with Jayco, and I would be interested in the Smart Lighting Controller and how much power it is consuming when just sitting idle (my TT is old enough I don't have those fancy new features).