Broken USB charger

[Lazyl]

We have a 2017 29.5 fbds that we bought in February of 2017. The same thing happened to our usb jacks so they have not improved them over time. I think i will replace them with a different manufacturer.

[Mikey]

Originally Posted by BuddyRay

These things must be real junk.
Attachment 25544
The core of mine just pulled out as well. I did manage to put it back in but the bottom plug doesn't have power now so I assume it was shorted when it pulled out.
I contacted Jayco and they won't send me a replacement - got the "warranty work must be done by dealer" line).
To answer the question above - the unit is 12v.
In the Eagle HT 26.5 there is plenty of room behind the outlet to mount something deeper. That leaves a lot of options.
One thing to watch if you have to buy/replace any USB charger jack is the amps.
MANY of the dual socket units on the market deliver 2.1a on one socket and 1.0 on the other. Guess what - that makes the 1.0 socket pretty much useless unless you still have an iPhone 4. Newer phones and pads require at least 2 amps and will charge pretty slowly at that. I haven't found a wall mounted 12v charger that I consider really "high power" yet.
I'm considering going with this one just because I know it will cover the hole in the cabinet AND I'd like to have a 12v socket here to plug in a 12v fan when we boondock.

I had this EXACT same thing happen in my 2017 White Hawk, but the parts department at my dealership was willing to order/mail me a new one PROVIDED I sent them the damaged one, which is what I did. Took a bit, but it sure beat driving 100 miles and leaving my rig at a dealership for days for a 2 minute repair. Once I received the new part I installed it in seconds. It's frustrating how uneven Jayco responses can be to the same issues from different customers. Maybe I had better luck because I went to the dealer rather than directly to Jayco, I don't know...

[MzLiz]

I'm on my third one. First just quit working, my Montana dealer fixed under warranty. Second, I pulled out the whole thing when I removed a charging cord. The Las Vegas dealer ordered me a new one (I was just barely still under warranty) and I changed it myself. Now I'm really careful and hold onto the unit when I remove the charging cords! Thanks for the ideas posted - I don't have high hopes for the third one either.

[Fter]

Have an eagle ht also and ripped out the usb port. Got a replacement from dealer. It has a red pos and black neg cord out the back. But the wire inside the rv panel has no colours, just white. It does have 2 spots where the crimp claws were for the old usb port.. How do I determine, and what tool do I use to find the pos and neg to properly attach the new usb port wires.

Thx

[Lazyl]

Originally Posted by Fter

Have an eagle ht also and ripped out the usb port. Got a replacement from dealer. It has a red pos and black neg cord out the back. But the wire inside the rv panel has no colours, just white. It does have 2 spots where the crimp claws were for the old usb port.. How do I determine, and what tool do I use to find the pos and neg to properly attach the new usb port wires.

Thx

The best tool to check the continuity of your wires is a digital multi meter. You take your meter and set it to volts DC. Then take your test leads and probe the ends of the white wire. If the test leads are on incorrectly then the meter will read a -12.4 V. Switch the test leads and read the value on the meter, it should be close to12.4 V. The red wire on that test lead will be positive so that will make that white wire positive. Mark that wire to help you identify it as the positive lead, it will be the one the red wire on your USB port will connect to. If you mark it now it will help you identify the positive wire for a future application.
On our eagle that wire is also connected to the propane alarm system. It is connected underneath the sink and that may help you identify how it is wired.. Not sure if yours is that way but that may worth a look.
Hope that helps. Al

[Fter]

Originally Posted by Lazyl

The best tool to check the continuity of your wires is a digital multi meter. You take your meter and set it to volts DC. Then take your test leads and probe the ends of the white wire. If the test leads are on incorrectly then the meter will read a -12.4 V. Switch the test leads and read the value on the meter, it should be close to12.4 V. The red wire on that test lead will be positive so that will make that white wire positive. Mark that wire to help you identify it as the positive lead, it will be the one the red wire on your USB port will connect to. If you mark it now it will help you identify the positive wire for a future application.
On our eagle that wire is also connected to the propane alarm system. It is connected underneath the sink and that may help you identify how it is wired.. Not sure if yours is that way but that may worth a look.
Hope that helps. Al

Thx for your reply Al. Yes my Eagle ht is configured like yours and the stupid kitchen usb port is connected to the radio and propane monitor. Indeed I tested the wires for hot and neutral with my handy dandy multimeter. However I was not confidant using the Scotchlok connecter. So I did it the old fashioned way; the way my Granddad taught me. I cut the single looping wire behind the plywood, into 2 wires. Then I tested and found the neutral (white side) and hot (grey side).
After stripping the rubber insulations, I connected the 2 white wires with the black neutral from the usb port and capped it with a wire nut then electrical tape for safety & security. Same with the grey hot wires and the red from the usb port.
Reinstalled the fuse, Voila, success!
If this usb port breaks again, I'll order a better quality one from Amazon or another site. Honestly, its crap quality like others have said!
Not an electrical expert by any means but I knew this was an easy repair and it was!

[Rafstar]

Originally Posted by Aero_Dave

OK so I walk in the camper, step on the core left in the USB charger near the kitchen sink. Of course the cord rips the dual USB ports out of their socket. I tried to repair it but no luck. The label on the back of it says: american technology components AV1-5-U I've already looked online but can't find it at all! Anyone have an idea where to find a replacement, besides trying to go through Jayco or a dealer? I can't even find a different manufacture model that might be usable, even if I make a bigger hole for one.


Thanks,
Dave...

Hi Dave,

You can never have enough USB ports in my opinion. Below are 2 items that may help you out.

Belkin SurgePlus 6-Outlet Wall Mount Surge Protector with Dual USB Charging Ports (2.1 AMP / 10 Watt), BSV602tt (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ATZJ606...BIFATO3Z&psc=1)

Belkin BSV300ttCW 3-Outlet Wall Mount Cradle Surge Protector with Dual USB Charging Ports (2.4 Amp Total) (
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O1AKB2C...BIFATO3Z&psc=1)

Bob

[Isaacs]

Here is the exact replacement: https://www.atcomp.com/product/av1-5-u/

Seems kind of expensive if they're as unreliable as everyone says.

[Fter]

Originally Posted by Rafstar

Hi Dave,

You can never have enough USB ports in my opinion. Below are 2 items that may help you out.

Belkin SurgePlus 6-Outlet Wall Mount Surge Protector with Dual USB Charging Ports (2.1 AMP / 10 Watt), BSV602tt (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ATZJ606...BIFATO3Z&psc=1)

Belkin BSV300ttCW 3-Outlet Wall Mount Cradle Surge Protector with Dual USB Charging Ports (2.4 Amp Total) (
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O1AKB2C...BIFATO3Z&psc=1)

Bob

Indeed I returned to the dealership - still under guarantee and they ordered me this one which is the standard https://www.atcomp.com/product/av1-5-u/, but the next time this breaks I will order the belkin or another better quality one. The american technologies port is a piece of crap... its quite easy to use a small saw to make the hole in the plywood bigger to accommodate a bigger port plate.

[North of 49°]

Ours stopped working last year. It didn't come apart, it just died. My multitester showed there was power all the way up to the circuit board, but nothing at the ports themselves. So I replaced them completely, along with a 12-volt outlet.

[RichR]

Originally Posted by North of 49°

Ours stopped working last year. It didn't come apart, it just died. My multitester showed there was power all the way up to the circuit board, but nothing at the ports themselves. So I replaced them completely, along with a 12-volt outlet.

That's what is on our 21QB.

[Fter]

Thats beautifus!! When I have to do this repair again, and I will, I'll copy you!

[Isaacs]

Originally Posted by North of 49°

Ours stopped working last year. It didn't come apart, it just died. My multitester showed there was power all the way up to the circuit board, but nothing at the ports themselves. So I replaced them completely, along with a 12-volt outlet.

I've installed the exact same thing in my camper. Works great!

[North of 49°]

On our trailer, right around the corner of the cabinet is a regular 120 volt outlet. If I didn't already have a USB charger there, I would have retrofitted in something like this, with the USB charger integrated in with the duplex outlet:



But since Jayco already chewed a hole through the cabinet panel, I couldn't just leave it like that, so I filled it with a replacement charger and the 12 volt outlet. You can also get it as a three-pack, with the other part being a voltage meter.

[Isaacs]

Originally Posted by North of 49°

On our trailer, right around the corner of the cabinet is a regular 120 volt outlet. If I didn't already have a USB charger there, I would have retrofitted in something like this, with the USB charger integrated in with the duplex outlet:



But since Jayco already chewed a hole through the cabinet panel, I couldn't just leave it like that, so I filled it with a replacement charger and the 12 volt outlet. You can also get it as a three-pack, with the other part being a voltage meter.

But that wouldn't work if you're dry camping, right?

[North of 49°]

Originally Posted by Isaacs

But that wouldn't work if you're dry camping, right?

Right, I forgot about that. Since we never dry camp, I tend not to think about it, lol.

[NH_camper]

Has anyone else had problems with usb chargers causing noise on their stereo/radio? I'm referring to the kind that plug into a 12v cigarette lighter type socket. I haven't noticed any noise using the chargers that plug into 120VAC outlets.

[BuddyRay]

If you have newer phones - read the fine print on any USB charger you buy. Chargers come with ports rated in amps. MOST of the Chinese junk out there includes ONE 2.1 amp port and the rest are 1.something ports. The lower amp ports either WON"T charge newer phones and pad or they take days to bring them up to full charge. Back when this thread started there were a LOT of chargers that were ADVERTISED as 2.1 but if you read carefully, ONE port would do 2.1. At that time I couldn't find a 12v powered unit that I considered really HIGH POWER. For example in 120v plug in chargers you can get 6 ports at 15a total and charge an iPhone 8 in minutes not hours.

In today's world, if ALL the ports aren't at least 2.1 amps, you don't want it.

Buyer beware!

[RVhiker]

I installed three of these USB Chargers about two years ago. They have been used quite a bit and I have had zero issues with them. They charge, have a low stand-by current draw, and have made no radio noise.

[rogers81]

I found this on eby. I have not tryed it could be as big a problem as what I have but if mine do stop working I think I'll try it. https://m.ebay.com/itm/Magnadyne-WC-...589?nav=SEARCH