Check your wheel bearings

[Randyman69357]

I have had my 21 Pinnacle for just over a month. I’m a stickler for maintenance and we are heading south for the winter so I wanted to check the wheel bearings for grease just to make sure they were good even though it is new. First wheel I pulled there was no rubber cover over the grease zirk. Wide open for water, dirt whatever. I swear the work ethic of people doing their jobs is pathetic. The bearings had just enough grease on them to be lubed and nothing extra. Surprised me after seeing the rubber cover missing. It is something worth looking at because the last thing any of us wants is a bearing failure along side the road.

[Cincinnati Kid]

Originally Posted by Randyman69357

I have had my 21 Pinnacle for just over a month. I’m a stickler for maintenance and we are heading south for the winter so I wanted to check the wheel bearings for grease just to make sure they were good even though it is new. First wheel I pulled there was no rubber cover over the grease zirk. Wide open for water, dirt whatever. I swear the work ethic of people doing their jobs is pathetic. The bearings had just enough grease on them to be lubed and nothing extra. Surprised me after seeing the rubber cover missing. It is something worth looking at because the last thing any of us wants is a bearing failure along side the road.

I won't use the grease zerk again. It's a big controversy here, but I'm solidly in the hand-packing camp now after three greased up brakes.

[Randyman69357]

I agree, but didn’t have time to pull and pack. Just wanted to know they were well greased. Mine has disc brakes and made it super easy to see that no grease came out the seal, all went through the bearings. When I get back next year they will get pulled, inspected and packed the old fashioned way.

[Cincinnati Kid]

Originally Posted by randyman69357

i agree, but didn’t have time to pull and pack. Just wanted to know they were well greased. Mine has disc brakes and made it super easy to see that no grease came out the seal, all went through the bearings. When i get back next year they will get pulled, inspected and packed the old fashioned way.

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by Cincinnati Kid

snip....... I'm solidly in the hand-packing camp......snip

I agree 100%.

Mine are hand-packed every two years, and I use double-lip seals.

Bob

[Jagiven]

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

I agree 100%.

Mine are hand-packed every two years, and I use double-lip seals.

Bob

X2, I am behind schedule on mine. Been so busy and just have not had any time. At this point I think it will be done in the spring

When I did mine the first time, I found one of the spindle nuts was cracked. Would have never seen it if I had used the Ez-Lube.

[norty1]

I have an appt. in 2 weeks for some repairs on my rigs suspension. They will also re-pack the wheel bearings and check all brakes.

It's been 3 years since they were re-packed and that includes the covid year 2020 when it was not used much.

[MtnGoat]

I'm old school. Flush and clean all the old grease out before repacking. So this weekend I set out with a bucket of spirits and grease in hand. Once the first drum was pulled I discovered why using that grease zerk is not always a good thing. The electric puck and drum was covered in grease. The brakes worked as I always checked before rolling out. They just seemed weak. Now I know why.

[Mopar_Earl]

Originally Posted by MtnGoat

I'm old school. Flush and clean all the old grease out before repacking. So this weekend I set out with a bucket of spirits and grease in hand. Once the first drum was pulled I discovered why using that grease zerk is not always a good thing. The electric puck and drum was covered in grease. The brakes worked as I always checked before rolling out. They just seemed weak. Now I know why.

Install new double lip spring load seals.



Earl

[Forester2]

Never had Easy Lube on a trailer until this one and I've been using it. Pulled hubs to adjust bearings and check brakes this fall: not a drop of grease through rear seal and into brakes. Quite pleased so far.

[Yooper906]

Originally Posted by Mopar_Earl

Install new double lip spring load seals.



Earl

Never heard of a "load" seal, bearing seals carry no loads. Double lip seal or not, too much grease pressure WILL force that seal out. And when it happens it's a huge mess and expensive. As far as I'm aware, and I've replaced and cleaned 2 dozen wheels and hubs this year for customers, these types of greasing systems belong on possibly boat trailers, or trailer hubs and wheels that don't have brakes.

Grease away. I've talked to folks that have asked how much to pump in. I can't give them an answer. I have no idea if the cavity in the middle is already filled with grease or not. What I do know if that rear seal blows out the customer will be looking to replace electric brake pucks (magnets), both brake shoes and get charged for a massive cleaning of the drum, shoe springs and hardware. Times that by 4 hubs, you are looking at at least 6-7 hrs labor costs, mostly to get all of the grease out. Everything has to be put in a parts washer. Plus part costs. Spending around $280 or so for a bearing repack and inspection that will last 2 yrs and 10000 mi will look good.

[Mopar_Earl]

Originally Posted by Yooper906

Never heard of a "load" seal, bearing seals carry no loads. Double lip seal or not, too much grease pressure WILL force that seal out. And when it happens it's a huge mess and expensive. As far as I'm aware, and I've replaced and cleaned 2 dozen wheels and hubs this year for customers, these types of greasing systems belong on possibly boat trailers, or trailer hubs and wheels that don't have brakes.

Grease away. I've talked to folks that have asked how much to pump in. I can't give them an answer. I have no idea if the cavity in the middle is already filled with grease or not. What I do know if that rear seal blows out the customer will be looking to replace electric brake pucks (magnets), both brake shoes and get charged for a massive cleaning of the drum, shoe springs and hardware. Times that by 4 hubs, you are looking at at least 6-7 hrs labor costs, mostly to get all of the grease out. Everything has to be put in a parts washer. Plus part costs. Spending around $280 or so for a bearing repack and inspection that will last 2 yrs and 10000 mi will look good.

Smart phone, should of been spring loaded seal, double lip.


Earl

[MtnGoat]

Originally Posted by Yooper906

I have no idea if the cavity in the middle is already filled with grease or not. What I do know if that rear seal blows out the customer will be looking to replace electric brake pucks (magnets), both brake shoes and get charged for a massive cleaning of the drum, shoe springs and hardware. Times that by 4 hubs, you are looking at at least 6-7 hrs labor costs, mostly to get all of the grease out. Everything has to be put in a parts washer. Plus part costs. Spending around $280 or so for a bearing repack and inspection that will last 2 yrs and 10000 mi will look good.

That grease passage is drilled through the length of the spindle. Although I did not find where the passage is for the outer bearing, the inner passage exits to the inside between the seal and bearing. Blowing grease out through the inner seal is almost guaranteed. IMHO using this feature would be a last resort for adding grease.

I'll continue to service my wheel bearings until I'm unable to do so. Watching a tech servicing bearing at a "big" RV shop convinced me of this. Rather than clear out the old grease in the hub and bearing, he just packed more grease in the bearings and called it good. Using his dirty hands to wipe off the rollers to inspect them. No way will I pay Bubba or any shop to service my equipment.

[Bill Johnson]

Originally Posted by Randyman69357

I agree, but didn’t have time to pull and pack. Just wanted to know they were well greased. Mine has disc brakes and made it super easy to see that no grease came out the seal, all went through the bearings. When I get back next year they will get pulled, inspected and packed the old fashioned way.

If you added grease how did you know what grease the manufacturer used? Grease shouldn't be mixed. If you removed the seal and removed all the grease and repacked that is fine.

[Randyman69357]

I pumped in my Amsoil synthetic until it pushed out the little grease that was there from the factory.

[ARoamer]

After my dealer swapped my rear axle (warranty claim, tires abnormal wear) I popped off the wheel center caps to find both of my dust caps were smashed in on the new axle. The zerk was actually rubbing on one rubber plug.

I was PO'd they would actually give something like that back to a customer. During my 2 year warranty this was the kind of service work I got from them. Not. buying. there. again. ever.


BTW, Dexter axle spec for grease is Lithium complex NLGI #2

[ARoamer]

Originally Posted by Randyman69357

I pumped in my Amsoil synthetic until it pushed out the little grease that was there from the factory.

Amsoil is a calcium sulfonate type grease which has been found to be not compatable with a lithium base grease. All of the OEM grease should be cleaned before using, mixing them isn't a good idea. Yes, this is clutch release bearing failures and not wheel bearings, but it's probably not good to mix grease types regardless.



""Grease Thickener Type Incompatibility (Observations of failed clutch release bearings)
• Lowered Heat Resistance occurred when mixing two incompatible thickener types. By lowering
the heat resistance of the grease mixture, the clutch release bearing failed prematurely.
• The data below show the maximum operating temperature of two greases and of a 50/50
mixture of the greases:
o Lithium Complex Type Grease: 486°F
o Calcium Sulfonate Type Grease: 486°F
o 50/50 mixture: 310°F
• The reduction in the maximum operating temperature of the mixture shows that the two
greases are not compatible.
NOTE: Calcium Sulfonate Type Greases are not compatible with Lithium Complex Types. Use of
Calcium Sulfonate Type Greases will reduce the life of Eaton Clutch release bearings.""

[Randyman69357]

Originally Posted by ARoamer

Amsoil is a calcium sulfonate type grease which has been found to be not compatable with a lithium base grease. All of the OEM grease should be cleaned before using, mixing them isn't a good idea. Yes, this is clutch release bearing failures and not wheel bearings, but it's probably not good to mix grease types regardless.



""Grease Thickener Type Incompatibility (Observations of failed clutch release bearings)
• Lowered Heat Resistance occurred when mixing two incompatible thickener types. By lowering
the heat resistance of the grease mixture, the clutch release bearing failed prematurely.
• The data below show the maximum operating temperature of two greases and of a 50/50
mixture of the greases:
o Lithium Complex Type Grease: 486°F
o Calcium Sulfonate Type Grease: 486°F
o 50/50 mixture: 310°F
• The reduction in the maximum operating temperature of the mixture shows that the two
greases are not compatible.
NOTE: Calcium Sulfonate Type Greases are not compatible with Lithium Complex Types. Use of
Calcium Sulfonate Type Greases will reduce the life of Eaton Clutch release bearings.""

That's funny, it says right on it that it is compatible with Calcium Sulfonate type greases.

[Yooper906]

Originally Posted by MtnGoat

I'll continue to service my wheel bearings until I'm unable to do so. Watching a tech servicing bearing at a "big" RV shop convinced me of this. Rather than clear out the old grease in the hub and bearing, he just packed more grease in the bearings and called it good. Using his dirty hands to wipe off the rollers to inspect them. No way will I pay Bubba or any shop to service my equipment.

Our shop has never done bearing repack like that. Our shop, everything comes apart. Everything hubs, bearings etc get washed then sprayed out with brake cleaner to clean the washer fluid out. Then bearings and races are inspected and repacked. After it's put back together we check shoe clearance and adjust star wheel. Then check the amps going to the magnets, should be around 2.5 amps per wheel. Good for a couple of years at least, or around 10,000 miles. Doing this for way over 20 years, every other way I've found is nothing but a shortcut.

BTW, when putting the hub back on, best to torque the castellated nut to 50 lbs to make sure bearings are seated on the races, then back off a castellation or two and spin the wheel looking for drag before putting the pin in the nut. Always use new cotters.

[Bill Johnson]

Originally Posted by Randyman69357

That's funny, it says right on it that it is compatible with Calcium Sulfonate type greases.

That is what Amsoil is made of, Calcium Sulfonate, but what is the grease from Jayco made of? This is from the Amsoil website However, it is recommended that when changing greases, the equipment be cleaned of the old grease when possible.