Cold Weather Prep

[Jayrundle]

So most of you have seen the videos for the new Climate Shield and see the claims that it will withstand 100deg temps and 0 deg temps... which I do agree with simply because they use the words 'in a controled setting'. Which in all fairnes to JayCo (because I love Jayco) to do an accurate test you need to establish a base line and by having a controled setting it allows the tests to be more accurate in references to the base line.
Now we all know that in the real camping worls there are no 'controlled settings' we do what we can to control them and hope for the best after that right? Well Not me... my military background has taught me to prepare for the worst and hope for the best. Good thing I am because this past weekend I created a few more access pannels under my underbelly (enclosed) to see just how well this unit (33.5 RETS w/ enclosed underbelly and climate shield) is ready to handle the colder climats of hunting season in upstate NY from Mid November to Early Dec. I was not suprised to find that It needed some MODS greater than that from the factory... Here is my findings:

- Low point drains for fresh water tanks are exposed outside of the enclosed underbelly because the drains for the fresh tanks are right up against the enclosed couregated pannels. This will cause freezing and the ice will follow right up into the fresh holding tanks causing pre mature freezing.

- Enclosed underbelly means just that... enclosed... there is a tiny and I mean tiny bit of insulation laying freely under the black and grey tank which will does nothing come 30deg days. They might as well have not put any... very honestly.

- The fresh water supply lines... youll love this one.... they are in the enclosed underbelly but are running along the outside and butted right up against the cold steel frame, the cold transfer from the steel to the plastic pex will be fast and cause rapid freeze issues.

-no other underbelly insulation exists :0... not very good considering how cold the floors always get and this will cause a waste of fuel to heat the living space.


My MODS:

1) This weekend I have wrapped all drain and supply lines with closed cell pipe insulation as a first line of deffense and positoned them off of the cold steel frame. I have also been thinking about applying some heat tape in specific areas that I feel are prone to possible freezes so if they do I just need to pulg the outlet of the tape in for a while and let them thaw (note: make sure your heat taps is rated for plastic or metal supply lines... and never use it for drain hoses... only hoses with water in them. Frost King makes heate tape that is rated for metal or plastic SUPPLY Lines and it also is thermostatically controlled.

2) this up comming weekend I will be adding additonal fiberglass insulation to the underbelly to contribute to lower themal heat loss through the floor. I chose to go with fiberglass (even though its itchy) because its effective, flexible and will fit through my access pannels, and can be removed easily for repairs (unlike spray insulation or close form borad insulation.

3) I will also be adding pex shut off valves for my outdoor shower as these showers have a tendency to freeze up and the lines break because no one ever thinking about them in the cold weather. A simple press fit shut off valve onthe hot and cold line supplying them from within the camper a few feet will prevent this (some can be access through cabinets/closets) Mine is accessed throuh the dump station control pannel.

4) A hot air flow access hole. This is peraonal touch I am adding for a RED EMREGENCY situation where something frooze and I dont know where (a Hail Marry precaution if you will)... I am making one access hole where I can attach a 4in dryer hose to with a hose clamp so I can use a portable form of forced air heater to blow continuous heat into the underbelly quickly to instantly raise the underbelly temperature and resolve an immediate problem until I can troubleshoot it.... NOTE: this is not recomeded as a continous solution as continued introduction of hot air into a cold envirenment can cause moisture build up, but in a pinch when all else fails and its a game of a tiny bit of moisture vs a broken pips that you will need to locate to fix... I would go with the moisture all day long becuase its not significant and will be vented out anyway.

5) also with the insulation I am sdding I will be adding a few self tapping screws with fender washers to where the courragated board is attached to my frame to ensure it holds the weight of the insulation... not that its heavy but the screws now have no washers and some are pushed through the plastic board (right from the facotry :0 )


Feel free to ask questions, comment, I invite CONSTRUCTIVE critisism not destructive. We are all a family lets support and help eachother... I can post pictures or email them if you would like. Enjoy and be safe!

[TEBechtold]

May want to add never to your poll! Once it starts getting cold in SD it is time to winterize and camping is thus done for the year unless you wanna go without water. Does not take much to freeze the lines.

[ROC-REQS]

Jayrundle

I would be interested in seeing pictures and a little more info on how accessed the enclosed underbelly.

Accessing the underbelly is something I've been thinking about, but more from if I could install Tornado flush kits in both Gray tanks.
Never thought about improving the insulation, so you've brought up some good points and ideas that, being a neighbor to the west of you, I should consider and look into.

Like TEBechtold said, we winterize when it gets cold, but we still camp into late October and there has been times where it's gotten below freezing around here in that time frame.

Thanks for the post and sharing what you found and your mods.

[Jayrundle]

Note to everyone following this post, I will be adding the R-19 floor insulation this weekend, I noticed however where the two slides come together I will not be able to add insulation there due to the fact that the insulation may get caught on the rails of the slide and possibly find its way into the actuator. My plan here may be to take a few layers of the sliver bubble insulation (available at lowes) and spray glue a few layers of them together to make a decent R-value (as a single layer is like R3) and then spray glue that to the courigated underbelly on the inside so it lays just below the slide rail path. Pictures will be posted likely Monday night.

[hozerdude]

I am a full timer...........

I ran R-13 Insulation in the folowing:

Genrator area ( I have no gen )
Refer area and underneath refer ( have a Frigidaire refer in my rig )
Inside the storage area all sides and inside roof of storage area
Wraped all four of my slides with R-13 and 3/8" reflective insulation the covered them in a tarp ( cut to size ) with velcro
All inside cabinets have the 3/8" reflective insulation.
Wraped all pluming with R-13 insulation including water heater.
Used 2.5" silver insulation tape over slide rubber to eliminate cold air from coming from all 4 slides.
Took inside covers off A/C and put in R-13 and 3/8" reflective insulation inside both A/C units and vent covers( during Winter only )
Used that Duck Windows clear shrink wrap on all of my windows even the big picture window at the real of my 5'er.
Put 40watt light bulb drop lite in storage area to make sure is stays at least 40 degree's in that area.
I have a 10'X40' Black Tarp on top for my 5'er held on with Velcro ( for winter use only.)
I also have a skirt on my 5er

Here is the links for the materials:

R-13
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Cor...RF12/203908439

Reflective insulation:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Reflectix...4025/100318553

Insulation Tape:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-Ta...7794/100048600

Duck Window Kit!: ( I got mine at Wally Word )

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...140819005514:s

Worked for me last Winter!

Hope This helps

[Eagle Joe]

I checked into my cold weather prep package as well... And read a little from the owners manual. The furnace is vented into the underbelly, Jayco's plan is to heat the underbelly to prevent freezing. I will be augmenting my insulation as well.

Joe