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Old 03-20-2022, 12:13 PM   #1
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Countertop Replacement

The thermofoil top I has come loose between the countertop and the sink on the island and in the lavatory. No way to stretch it and re-glue it. Does anyone know how the countertops on the 28.5RSTS are attached? Glued? Or, how destructive to the base is it to remove them?

Comments are appreciated.
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Old 03-21-2022, 10:42 AM   #2
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I’ll be watching this thread, my countertop in the bathroom on my 319RLTS is doing the same thing. My camper is still under warranty but not sure if I want Gander RV to touch it.
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Old 03-30-2022, 04:43 AM   #3
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May be going with butcher block countertops. One concern is the island. The butcher block would weigh approximately 100 lbs. Not sure if the island, as constructed by Jayco, could handle the weight when towing (starts, stops, bad road). Any thoughts?
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Old 03-30-2022, 04:32 PM   #4
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I have already replaced my island countertop because the sink wasn't attached with enough screws and it separated. Of course water got into the gap before we could even see what was happening. Jayco replaced the countertop under warranty, but I had it shipped directly to me so I could install it myself. I didn't (and still don't) trust any dealer service to do it right.
To answer your question; the countertop cleats are stapled into the countertop and the sides of the cabinet. I was able to pry the cleats (3/4" X 3/4") carefully with a pry bar and H.D. putty knife. It doesn't matter if you damage the countertop you will be replacing, so you can be a little rough on that. I sealed the underside of the replacement countertop before installing the sink, and I did a very careful job of caulking the sink as I installed it (while the replacement countertop was on horses in my shop.)
One option with a replacement countertop, if you order one or make your own is to install the sink as a drop-in rather than undermount. It's easier to seal that way. I did mine as drop-in, which is better looking, but if this happens again I will take out the sink and install it as a drop-in.
If I had to replace it out of warranty, I would use 1/2" solid surface (Corian, etc) which would be less weight than butcher block. Of course, I have an advantage, having been a certified Corian installer for years; I have the tools and some leftover material.
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Old 03-30-2022, 04:55 PM   #5
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Please post pics, Nature!
I am definitely replacing my kitchen & bathroom countertops, sinks & fixtures in the future. Corian tops with drop in sinks sounds like the way to go.
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Old 04-30-2022, 01:59 PM   #6
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Late in posting the results. They are done and look fine. Overall, happy with the result. Contractor also strengthened the island bracing and floor connections.


3 coats Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish
3 coast Waterlox Urethane Satin Finish
Attached Thumbnails
2D7D3626-E16E-458A-BF99-F8FC6A78C4D0.jpg   5792270E-F344-4B09-9D4E-B7C03018B2C1_1_201_a.jpg   68D16C8C-682C-4C36-B699-FA95BAC9016E.jpg  
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Old 04-30-2022, 06:58 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aggie79 View Post
Late in posting the results. They are done and look fine. Overall, happy with the result. Contractor also strengthened the island bracing and floor connections.


3 coats Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish
3 coast Waterlox Urethane Satin Finish
very Nice... Did you ever figure out the additional weight added?
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Old 05-01-2022, 09:16 AM   #8
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very Nice... Did you ever figure out the additional weight added?
I'm estimating a 20 lb difference from new to original countertop. No idea what the original weighed. Calculations for new weight is below.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf island weight.pdf (30.8 KB, 5 views)
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