Dexter E-Z Lube Axles

[ronwarby]

I was reading about safe jacking points and greasing Dexter Axles was mentioned. Do you fill the cavity with grease until it squeezes out? Does this mean you don't have to repack bearings every 10K miles? Dealer says you don't add grease after repacking and insists on a repack every 10K.
Thanks.
Ron
Jayco 2013 Eagle 5th wheel

[Jagiven]

Should repack every year or 10K miles. I repack every few years.

If you use the easy lubes. You need to lift the frame, so as you pump in the grease you can spin the wheel. You pump in new grease until all the old grease is displaced. Warning, it is easy to pump in the grease to fast and blow out the rear seal, and contaminate the brakes.

Most people including myself, prefer to pull the wheel, clean and inspect everything, and put it back together. It does require purchasing new rear seals.

[Rustic Eagle]

ronwarby,

Welcome to JOF!

Originally Posted by ronwarby

snip...... Dealer says you don't add grease after repacking and insists on a repack every 10K......snip

IMO good advice.

Bob

[Chet & Marie]

My dealer told me as well to not add grease but repack every 10k as you mentioned. I have seen too many blown seals and messed up shoes on other TT. Our unit is always stored inside so reseal the roof and repack bearings every 2 years. We put about 5k on each year.

[RAurand]

Didn't put any grease in mine yet after 3 1/2 years. Took mine apart and found the single lip rear seals blown (Yep.... all 4). Put in double lip rear seals and re-packed all the bearings.

[DonaandDon]

Lot of talk on greasing vs repacking.

If done carefully and slowly greasing works. I have greased my bearings every 6mos. for years. After waiting for the 10,000 miles on my last rig and having a thrown bearing on the interstate. Not fun.

I do not recommend using the rigs rams if auto leveling is installed to lift your rig. It causes to much positive camber on your frame and could lead to slim-treck silde issues.

I use jack stands and remove the wheels. Place a piece of cardboard under the brake drum to catch the drippings. Slowly pump in the new grease while spinning the brake drum. I use a complete tube of grease for each bearing every time. I do grease often and I do believe in inspecting the bearings too, just not that often. Additionally, I use a cordless two speed grease gun. It helps to allow the spinning of the brake drums.

[WeRJuliian]

A question on Dexter Axles and bearings... I'm planning to remove/repack at some point this year, but, if I need to order replacement bearings or seals, how do I know what kind of axle I have? The Jayco docs tell me nothing

[Rustic Eagle]

WeRJuliian,

There will be a manufactures data label (S/N, model, weight, etc.) on the axles with all the information you will need.

Bob

[WeRJuliian]

Indeed there was, thanks Bob

And the first thing I saw, on the label, was.. "Lippert"
Not a Dexter axle at all, despite what the Jayco manual says.

Oh well...

[dennis b]

Originally Posted by DonaandDon

Lot of talk on greasing vs repacking.

If done carefully and slowly greasing works. I have greased my bearings every 6mos. for years. After waiting for the 10,000 miles on my last rig and having a thrown bearing on the interstate. Not fun.

I do not recommend using the rigs rams if auto leveling is installed to lift your rig. It causes to much positive camber on your frame and could lead to slim-treck silde issues.

I use jack stands and remove the wheels. Place a piece of cardboard under the brake drum to catch the drippings. Slowly pump in the new grease while spinning the brake drum. I use a complete tube of grease for each bearing every time. I do grease often and I do believe in inspecting the bearings too, just not that often. Additionally, I use a cordless two speed grease gun. It helps to allow the spinning of the brake drums.

Why do you remove wheels if just pumping in grease?

[RogerR]

My daughters popup had a major problem. Probably caused by loose or over-tightened axle nut.



My thought at this time it would be better to put a whole new wheel assembly as the heat, wobbling of-the wheel, etc. probably ruined whatever was wrong and everything else. May also be more time saving then trying to rebuild it.
Any suggestions or thoughts.

[Route 66 Traveler]

Originally Posted by dennis b

Why do you remove wheels if just pumping in grease?

Two reasons:
1. Enables me to carefully inspect my tires for wear, inside bulges, and nails or screws in the tire.

2. The main reason is when the wheel comes of, so does the plastic hub cap. When pumping in the grease the old grease comes out as much as the new grease goes in, and that can be a fairly large amount. With the wheels on and the hub cap in place it frankly makes a big mess. Without the wheel in place I just put an old cardboard box under the hub and the old grease just falls into the box for easily disposal. No mess and easy cleanup.

Plus, the hub must be rotated while pumping grease and my helper (my wife) finds it easier to rotate just the hub.

[DonaandDon]

Originally Posted by dennis b

Why do you remove wheels if just pumping in grease?

Removing the wheels is a cleaner process. Although the wheel has a cover plate and the dust cap has a removeable rubber grease cover you will/should spin the wheel to help ease the grease. If you have to spin then why not remove the wheel? I just place a piece of cardboard on the ground and pump and spin. Watching the grease fall is easier to see the old being replaced by the new grease. If you leave the wheel on you spend a lot of time spooning the grease out or it will fall and spread inside the wheel. Messy no?

[Colorado]

Originally Posted by ronwarby

I was reading about safe jacking points and greasing Dexter Axles was mentioned. Do you fill the cavity with grease until it squeezes out? Does this mean you don't have to repack bearings every 10K miles? Dealer says you don't add grease after repacking and insists on a repack every 10K.
Thanks.
Ron
Jayco 2013 Eagle 5th wheel

Welcome to the Forum.

If you’re just adding grease to the bearings you have no idea what type of grease was used originally. Some grease types don’t play well with each other and will interact negatively when combined. That’s probably one reason they don’t recommend adding grease.
I always clean, repack and use Lucas Green tacky grease, it has a higher temperature rating than most. It’s readily available at most stores and I keep an extra tube on hand. I keep a record book and make a note of the grease, repacking date etc. When I sell the camper the book goes with the camper and helps with resale value.

You’re better off cleaning, inspecting and repacking the bearings yourself. You’ll know it was done correctly, what condition the bearings are in and what grease was used.

[Screwby]

Just replaced and repacked the bearings and grease seals on all 4 hubs last weekend. No sign of wear or discoloration on bearings, hubs, or spindle but after 3 years I decided to start over fresh. It’s not a hard job, especially with the correct tools. I bought the grease seal puller and a cheapie bearing race/grease seal driver after attempting the first one without them. Best $30 I ever spent as the other three hubs went faster than me beating and prying on the first one while hoping I didn’t scratch or mar a surface. For adding grease maybe the EZ lube is ok, but I’d prefer to hand pack them so I can inspect them and make sure a seal isn’t blown or something is worn out I can’t see.

[Bakersfish]

Take a picture of the label on the axle and call Lippert. I did and they told me exactly what seals I needed. I ordered the seals along with some other things from Etrailer.