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Old 10-16-2019, 05:21 AM   #1
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Door latching

Purchased new Eagle 355MBQS in April and have had trouble with the door since we bought it. Always having to slam the door to get it to latch. At one point we were driving across Texas and noticed the handle had come undone and was at a 90 degree angle with the door having come open - and this was with both the deadbolt and latch locked.
We went straight to a dealer and they took a 3/4 inch drill bit to the door jam to get the deadbolt to lock fully and that stopped the door from coming open going down the road, and we've had the door completely replaced since then but we're still having to slam the door to shut it - often multiple times before it will latch.
We are going back to get the door replaced again in a a couple of weeks, but thought I'd see if anyone had some advice.


Thanks!
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Old 10-16-2019, 08:41 AM   #2
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Every exposed latch, hinge, operator, items, Some use the dry WD-40 Lube

I use this (Both have the PTFE).

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Old 10-16-2019, 08:48 AM   #3
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I use a silicone paste on all my latches and for the male end of my 50 amp power cord because it is also dielectric grease. This stuff works great and does not attract dust & dirt.

https://www.amazon.com/Mission-Autom...dDbGljaz10cnVl
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Old 10-17-2019, 04:46 AM   #4
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Thanks for the info - once we get the new door in I'll see about those products to help the latch and hinges. Was just strange to hear the service folks recommend changing the leveling to get the door to close and latch. Even stranger that it worked
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Old 10-17-2019, 05:31 AM   #5
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When we picked our up two years ago the door was not square new one was ordered and replaced.
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Old 10-17-2019, 07:11 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by fchnjyh View Post
Thanks for the info - once we get the new door in I'll see about those products to help the latch and hinges. Was just strange to hear the service folks recommend changing the leveling to get the door to close and latch. Even stranger that it worked
Do you have auto level? And did you have to recalibrate. I do agree these rigs have a bit of flex to them..

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Old 10-17-2019, 07:47 AM   #7
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Had the same issue with my 2020. Had to adjust door frame striker plate. Factory screws holding striker plate were garbage. Drilled pilot home into frame of wall and ran a longer stainless screw in to secure plate in correctly. Added bit of dry lube to lock mechanism and havnt had any issues since
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Old 10-17-2019, 08:09 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Drbuley View Post
Had the same issue with my 2020. Had to adjust door frame striker plate. Factory screws holding striker plate were garbage. Drilled pilot home into frame of wall and ran a longer stainless screw in to secure plate in correctly. Added bit of dry lube to lock mechanism and havnt had any issues since
I also had to bend the striker plate catch toward the outside a little. Now my door latches firm and tight with little effort. I think it takes a while for these doors to "break-in".
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Old 10-17-2019, 06:16 PM   #9
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Thanks all -
Yes, we do have auto-level. I end up using the manual panel inside which sometimes works and gets the door to close. But it came take 4 or more really good slams to get it to stay closed. Everyone at the parks seem to really love that. /s

It looks to me like the door doesn't "latch" which leans me toward the idea of bending the strike plate toward the outside if this new door is still an issue. FWIW the first door seemed bowed when we looked at it and the one currently installed is definitely askew. You can see that the door hits the drip overhang of the frame in the top left side. Hoping the new door and frame are square when installed.
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Old 10-19-2019, 04:46 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKRUEBBE View Post
I use a silicone paste on all my latches and for the male end of my 50 amp power cord because it is also dielectric grease. This stuff works great and does not attract dust & dirt.

https://www.amazon.com/Mission-Autom...dDbGljaz10cnVl
Can you also use it on the fire wheel hitch to keep it lubbed or is WD40 better for that ?
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Old 10-20-2019, 06:02 PM   #11
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Can you also use it on the fire wheel hitch to keep it lubbed or is WD40 better for that ?
Definitely, but I prefer white lithium grease for the king pin and hitch.
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Old 10-20-2019, 06:11 PM   #12
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Definitely, but I prefer white lithium grease for the king pin and hitch.
Thanks
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Old 10-20-2019, 06:24 PM   #13
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I see WD40 has a white lithium grease. I just ordered some for the 5th wheel jaws. I have a pad for the plate so I think that is good enough right ?
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Old 10-21-2019, 07:49 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by pawags45 View Post
I see WD40 has a white lithium grease. I just ordered some for the 5th wheel jaws. I have a pad for the plate so I think that is good enough right ?
Yes, I like the WD40 brand of lithium grease but it is not as thick as what you can buy in a tube so I don't use the WD brand for my hitch but do use it for other applications. He who does not have a lube plate for their hitch is really living in the past........JMHO.
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Old 10-26-2019, 03:55 PM   #15
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Look at the door from the open edge. It will bow out near the latch area. Block it slightly open near top and bottom and push in on the latch area. Push lightly until you get it to close easily. That will fix your issue. They are built with the slight bow in them.
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Old 10-26-2019, 05:28 PM   #16
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Yes, the door does bow outward are the center. I presume that is done to make sure the entire door seals when the center of the door is latched. But I also noticed that attached to the bottom of my door was a rubber wedge that was tapered, with the tapered end facing inward. What was happening with my Greyhawk is that the rubber wedge would arrive first, and when it struck the bottom door jam, it took some of the energy off the momentum of the door and kept it from latching without a firm slam. I removed it, and the door closes much easier now, along with an occasional application of door strike grease.
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Old 10-26-2019, 05:49 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fchnjyh View Post
Purchased new Eagle 355MBQS in April and have had trouble with the door since we bought it. Always having to slam the door to get it to latch. At one point we were driving across Texas and noticed the handle had come undone and was at a 90 degree angle with the door having come open - and this was with both the deadbolt and latch locked.
We went straight to a dealer and they took a 3/4 inch drill bit to the door jam to get the deadbolt to lock fully and that stopped the door from coming open going down the road, and we've had the door completely replaced since then but we're still having to slam the door to shut it - often multiple times before it will latch.
We are going back to get the door replaced again in a a couple of weeks, but thought I'd see if anyone had some advice.


Thanks!
Based on your initial problem description, I would bet it also has something to do with friction hinges. Mine did the same thing until I put silicon on the hinges. The friction pressure flexed the door away from the striker.

It happened again the next year and a little after installing my Solid Step that also puts a little pressure on the door from the bottom.
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Old 10-27-2019, 05:04 AM   #18
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Thanks everyone for the info. I noticed the original door being bowed out around the latch. JaycoJoe, are you suggesting "unbowing" the door by using the blocks and pushing on it to bend it flat? The door that is currently installed actually hits the frame up at the top corner, so we are replacing it again this week but will check out the bow on the new one.
As for the hinges, yes, the flex does pull the door away also. I put some WD-40 silicone spray on the original door but very soon it started making the most God-awful racket opening and closing that we couldn't get back to the repair place fast enough for the replacement. Haven't put anything on this door and have opted to just sleep with the door ajar at night if it doesn't latch after 5 or 6 good slams.
Hopefully this new door will fit and latch like a charm...
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Old 10-27-2019, 07:25 AM   #19
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We are having the same problem with one of our two doors. I understand making the door with a slight bow so it is well sealed to prevent leaks, especially when driving in the rain. Our door is so bad, slamming it is useless, you will get a bloody nose when it hits you in the face. We need to straight arm it from the outside with the latch retracted and then let it out, from the inside you almost have to pull the handle off to get the door to latch and then need to dead bolt it or it will open as had happened when stored. Fortunately we had the grab handle folded over the door. Our dealer will most likely be replacing the door.
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Old 10-27-2019, 07:30 AM   #20
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The door from the factory has a strong bow in it. Do not take the bow out completely. Leave it slightly bowed but not as much as it is now. I have done that to mine and it works just fine. I was told that from Jayco customer service rep. The door is very flexible. Like I mentioned only adjust it in small increments until it latches smoothly
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